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850 / S70 & V70 '96-'99 / C70 '97-'05 General Forum for the 850 and P80-platform 70-series models |
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Start up after years unused.Views : 1964 Replies : 27Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jun 15th, 2022, 14:20 | #21 |
DPF free.FCUK Greta he he
Last Online: Today 14:38
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Location: Bristol
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Did you have to free her off (unseize) or did she turn over freely by hand on the crank pulley?
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Hello Tosh got Toshiba |
Jun 15th, 2022, 15:40 | #22 |
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Last Online: Jul 31st, 2023 09:46
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Peterborough
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There was a little resistance when I first attempted to crank manually, so I opted for discretion over valour and added a tiny amount of diesel/transmission fluid to each cylinder and left it overnight. It turned without resistance the following morning by hand.
I then cranked it using the starter motor with the fuel pump fuse removed to get oil pressure up...then refitted the fuse and she started first attempt.....then died. I guessed that the plugs might had been slightly fouled, so I cleaned them all up and since she idles no problem. I hope to have time to free the rear discs in the next couple of days and then I'll say a few prayers to the god of automatic transmission solenoids when I try and move her. Thanks for your help. Much appreciated. |
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Jun 15th, 2022, 16:21 | #23 |
DPF free.FCUK Greta he he
Last Online: Today 14:38
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Location: Bristol
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Happy days.
Nothing you can do for the box.Either its going to be ok or Fcuked. Fingers crossed
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Hello Tosh got Toshiba |
Jun 21st, 2022, 10:12 | #24 |
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Last Online: Jul 31st, 2023 09:46
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Location: Peterborough
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Progress Report #2
Got her moving yesterday, but only fast enough to engage third gear as there was quite sharp intermittent brake shudder through the pedal even at low speed. The gear changes were very smooth and engaging reverse was no problem so I'm optimistic she'll be ok in top gear. She also passed the pcv glove test, so I'll now go ahead and change all belts and fluids. To address the brake shudder I'll check of all suspension bushes and links and I need to change the tyres, pads and discs on all four corners in any event.
There's some other niggly stuff, but they're not car killers. Thanks to all for your help thus far and I feel that I should explain why such a lovely car was left untouched for almost 7 years. I bought her originally and in 2000 was offered the chance to return to Tokyo for a couple of years and my dad took her on. He absolutely loved the car, but eventually needed something more practical (V70) and so I got her back 9 years ago. Prior to yesterday, the last time I drove her was on a journey back from Romford Queen's hospital to south Lincolnshire, having just learned that my dad was terminally ill and had just weeks left. It was very much his car, and having parked her up and with a parasitic drain meaning she was quickly immobile, I just blocked her out of my mind and let her sit there. It's all the more unforgivable as I've since worked quite a bit on two other cars. Well, at least, it now appears that not too much harm has been done. Hopefully, I can get her back on the road and move on to the detailing side of things, get her gleaming and add to her rather modest 88k miles. |
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Jun 21st, 2022, 11:40 | #25 |
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Last Online: Today 20:20
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Location: Northampton
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C70's really are delightful cars and well worth the effort to get back up and running. Good luck with future progress👍
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2001 V40 2.0lt Sport lux - Daily Driver. 174k miles. 2003 C70 2.4 GT Convertible - Garage Queen. 65k miles. http://www.neptuno6benagil.com |
Jun 21st, 2022, 15:10 | #26 | |
Extrahumanestrial
Last Online: Feb 13th, 2023 20:02
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Location: Budapest
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Quote:
Glad you got it going however had I seen this earlier and for the benefit of future readers in addition to the prior good advice about hand cranking, bore lubing etc I would advise that the fuel supply is disconnected and the the system drained, in your case now it's started I would run it out of fuel and change the fuel filter before putting anymore fuel in it, I would probably change the filter again in a 1000 miles times, Old fuel that's older than 2 years old can varnish and always loses it's octane rating naturally, in addition to sediment that's been settled getting whipped back up again in the tank, Hope she shines up nice for you. |
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Jun 21st, 2022, 16:34 | #27 |
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Last Online: Jul 31st, 2023 09:46
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Thanks for that SnineT, much appreciated. I should have added 'filters' to 'change all belts and fluids' in my last comment. I'll be sure to follow your advice...I believe I read that the fuel filter bracket is rust prone too, so will check that out.
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Jun 23rd, 2022, 03:50 | #28 |
Classic P80 1999 BiFuel
Last Online: Mar 6th, 2024 01:34
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: 48mph Middle Lane M4
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If that's brake-judder it'll only be the lump taken out of each disc where it's been sat. If it's bearable - and the rust cloud has gone - leave it and the worst judder will be gone in 50 miles, and eliminated by 1500-2000. Suck it and see before lashing out on pads/discs.
For me, the whole point of these cars is they cost beggar-all to run; parts are cheap, yet don't spend what you don't have to. I'd make a mortgage amount bet that says it's near as makes no differnence, rot free too.
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Bifuel V70 Classic 1999 [The Old Grumpy in the Corner, "When I was a lad... blah, bl**dy blah."] Last edited by CNGBiFuel; Jun 23rd, 2022 at 04:08. |
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