Swirl Arm low cost repair!

[Scorps]

On my V70 P3 2008 2.4D the arm is the newer design with holes in both ends. The arm was attached very firmly to the actuator, but came off at the flap end and was very loose, came off the next day at most after putting it back. I bought a new original arm from the dealer for €14, same story - very loose at the flap end and didn't stay for more than a day. Then I ordered a new arm from an auto parts store, not an original one, the cheapest one available for €3. This one attached with more force to the engine side and is still attached for a few days already.

[Hix]

I've got a woeful leak of nasty combustion crap from the area where the swirl flaps connect to the actuator arm.
I'm looking at either replacing the swirl flaps or just blanking it all off.
I'm aware of the recommendation to replace the fuel lines and the clamps for the injectors but given the age and value of the vehicle I'm inclined to try to bypass that. Merely replacing the copper injector seals of which I have 10 original Bosch jobbies.
My query is multiple fold...
Is it possible to block off the ports and not have it be an issue?
I'm wondering what happens with the EGR when it cannot send the crap it contains back into the inlet ports?
Given the cost of taking just the injectors off to even have a look at it I'm just letting it weep for now. Surely the leak is allowing intake pressure to escape and possibly allowing over boost?
I've looked at a replacement swirl flap from Performance Parts Sweden, but have seen mixed reviews of their offerings. Any advice there.
There is a part of me that wants the keep Ølof on the road and make him sing again, but given the fact I bought him 6 years ago for 1500 I'm not really inclined to keep pumping money into it only to see something catastrophic happen a few miles down the line.

[Kev0607]

I'd be interested to know if there's a repair to stop the swirl arm link rod falling off. I've tried tying wire, but it only lasts so long.

I can tell the difference when I connect the swirl arm, the car feels more "lively" and mpg improves. When it does fall off, I can notice the difference in power and fuel economy, but there's no warning messages (thankfully).

I've tried new swirl arm rod's from Volvo. The appear to "snap" into place very tight, but they don't last too long. There's still resistance when I connect the new part, so it seems like the swirl flaps still work (fingers crossed*).

Any suggestions are appreciated.

[Scorps]

Originally Posted by Kev0607

I'd be interested to know if there's a repair to stop the swirl arm link rod falling off. I've tried tying wire, but it only lasts so long.

I can tell the difference when I connect the swirl arm, the car feels more "lively" and mpg improves. When it does fall off, I can notice the difference in power and fuel economy, but there's no warning messages (thankfully).

I've tried new swirl arm rod's from Volvo. The appear to "snap" into place very tight, but they don't last too long. There's still resistance when I connect the new part, so it seems like the swirl flaps still work (fingers crossed*).

Any suggestions are appreciated.

If you have the newer version of the arm with holes at both ends (like this), just flip it and put it on backwards. This way the two little plastic tabs help to hold the arm on the plastic ball connected to the flaps. You need to remove the air pipe on top of the engine, lubricate the ball and use long pliers to attach the rod. I did it and - thanks to Jesus - it's still there and works well!