S80 - does it have gear-hold like the classic model?

[GrantA]

Originally Posted by TheJoyOfSix

This is, quite frankly, the biggest load of tosh out there regarding driving technique. Changing down and using engine braking does not put any strain on the gearbox or driveline provided the downchange is done properly. If the revs are brought up to match the roadspeed there is no stress on the gearbox or drivetrain, but since the demise of non-synchro gearboxes this technique has all but disappeared and certainly isn't taught any more.

Actually depends on how quickly you drop the clutch and how quickly you lift off the accelerator once you have chosen the lower gear, it does put strain on the gearbox and driveline by reversing the thrust on the drive train. Miss a gear, as can happen, and drop into 2nd instead of 4th and watch the engine and gearbox destroy themselves.

To my mind brakes are a last resort and so anything that can be done to keep them cool and in perfect working order should be used if possible. I want to know that if I make a mistake, or someone else makes one, and I need to slow suddenly that my brakes are capable of doing so.

Brakes should never be used only as a last resort they are fitted to the car to control the speed and to bring the car to an immediate halt in an emergency. Yes if you ride the brakes ALL the time they may heat up and may "fade" when you need them but modern brake materials on the discs as well as the pads are designed to withstand rough usage and heat. I drive an automatic car and the only way I can slow down is to press the brakes. Read the OP and you will see the original question:

"Just been for a drive with my IAM observer, and he asked if my car had the capability to hold its gear and utilize engine braking to keep its speed."

As with most, if not all automatic gearboxes, I have no way of using my gearbox to "engine brake" unless I am in hill descent mode and guess what....... hill descent automatically puts the brakes on if the set speed is exceeded.

Lastly if you drive a high performance car with ceramic brakes you need to get them hot before they reach their maximum efficiency - forget keeping brakes "cool" by not using them.

[rickp78]

Going down hills it does make perfect sense, if you can easily and safely select an appropriate lower gear, but not slowing down at junctions - that is a complete waste of time and energy. I tend to back off the accelerator early when coming to junctions and letting the car gradually slow down in the same gear I was originally in, without letting the engine labour (manual car)

I have got over 100k miles on a set of front brake pads and original discs (on a maintained company cars as well several times!) and there was still plenty on them. My current V70 is a private vehicle and aim to drive it with mechanical sympathy and not overuse either the brakes, gearbox or clutch. I have not yet replaced a clutch on a car (most people kill clutches early by holding the biting point too long and not using the handbrake properly - used to tell my wife off for this!)

In my V70 (manual) on steeper hills I sometimes do select a lower gear. I also have an older automatic car (1982 2.8 Granada) and can manually select 1 or 2 (3-speed auto). I occasionally do this only on steep hills. Otherwise backing off the throttle at the appropriate time is normally enough to maintain a safe speed and if necessary an occasional gentle dab on the brakes.

An IAM driver always tests their brakes anyway just after setting off, so they should be a given they are working correctly!

[GrantA]

I agree with everything you have said Rick but I will add there are so many styles of driving and what you might feel is correct may frustrate the driver behind who is trying to get on with his or her deliveries they have to make and/or appointments to keep. I have had similar wear to you out of my old Merc front discs and pads and it was an automatic as well. I have yet to see how the brakes will wear on the Volvo although I have noticed with modern brake pad materials (avoiding asbestos) the discs themselves do wear more than they used to. Driving a 35 year old Porsche is a completely different experience and requires a different driving style, yes the gears are used more and, although the car is designed to be driven fast, it will "burble" along happily a low revs however one tends to let it rev a lot higher through the gear changes, both up and down, than you would in a modern car.

Like most drivers I believe I am a good driver, I drive at a speed that I believe suits the road conditions and that includes the weather conditions. In France the speed limit on "A" roads is reduced by 10kph if it is raining and on Autoroutes by 20kph, I believe that is a very sensible restriction and IMO something similar should be introduced here in the UK.

[berrymanuk]

Just want to say a massive thank you to everyone for the feedback on this subject.

Seems I can learn a lot about driving improvements, and not just technical matters from you all

I've only just started with the IAM, and plan on moving onwards to RoSPA certification once this Skills for Life course is complete.

Does anyone know if this will be a worthwhile investment? I've already paid for IAM, but the benefit I see of RoSPA is the three-yearly certification renewal to keep the standard of driving up.

[tt82]

I've not done RoSPA but I believe rather than a pass/fail (even though they say you can't fail) like IAM, its a Gold/Silver/Bronze pass. You can always take free yearly refresher at your local club while your a member of it.