|
200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
Information |
|
Any Advice, Part 2!Views : 46888 Replies : 671Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Aug 14th, 2020, 16:36 | #11 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 14:06
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Corby del Sol
|
Quote:
TBC=TDC (my fat fingers). If you use the camshaft mark then it has to be at TDC for #1; if you use the crank mark it could be for #1 or #4, so you have to check the rotor is at about 8 o'clock to tell the difference - einfach, nicht wahr? :-) Alan Last edited by Othen; Aug 14th, 2020 at 16:39. Reason: Addition. |
|
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Othen For This Useful Post: |
Aug 15th, 2020, 14:01 | #12 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Apr 15th, 2024 14:34
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Cardiff
|
Thanks Alan, alles klar.
Anyone know the answer to no 3? 3. Is my engine interference cylinder head, or non-interference?! Just checking in case we get things wrong - different sites say different things, Haynes says the B230 is interference. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Chris152 For This Useful Post: |
Aug 15th, 2020, 14:36 | #13 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 14:06
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Corby del Sol
|
Quote:
My understanding is that the carburettor engines have flat topped pistons (lower compression), and are all safe. The fuel injection engines have domed pistons and are interference. This is only what I've read, I've never had a fuel injected Volvo; someone much more knowledgeable than I (like Loki or LS) will know the answer. To be candid, this is a pretty simple engine: SOHC and just 8 valves, there is no reason to get this wrong. Take your time, check everything and it should be fine. Alan |
|
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Othen For This Useful Post: |
Aug 15th, 2020, 15:06 | #14 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Apr 15th, 2024 14:34
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Cardiff
|
Point taken, Alan - tbh I think I've watched enough videos and read enough to be able to do it without the manual, so long as all is as its supposed to be. Doesn't stop me doubting myself tho.
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Chris152 For This Useful Post: |
Aug 15th, 2020, 17:00 | #15 | |
Master Member
Last Online: Today 12:47
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: London and Cambridge
|
Quote:
Vast majority of engines are non-interference. There is one engine spec with a heron head and domed pistons, that’s interference - identifiable as the cylinder head number ends 631. If a cylinderhead has been removed and skimmed (to make it flat again) more than once it’s possible that will have made the engine interference when it wasn’t previously. Cambelt replacement- not difficult, just take your time and spin the engine over a couple of times by hand to make sure the marks line up again and you’ll be fine. Cheers |
|
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Bugjam1999 For This Useful Post: |
Aug 15th, 2020, 17:50 | #16 |
Master Member
Last Online: Today 12:47
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: London and Cambridge
|
Chris,
Consider a getting set of standard steel wheels from a 940 to fit with new tyres- they’re 15 inch not 14 which means it’s a lot easier and usually cheaper to get hold of tyres- the reduced sidewall height will help sharpen the steering and handling slightly too. 940 wheels are the same bolt pattern and offset, so will fit straight on. Otherwise- does your son want to learn to weld? If so working on the car could be a perfect opportunity. Although it’ll depend on whether you have the space for it etc. I recommend you encourage him to set up a thread here in the project cars section and also on the retrorides website- project threads are an easy way to keep interest up as people comment on them and offer encouragement etc. Other than that, clear the sills out (they’re always full of leaves and other debris), check the car carefully for rust and start a to-do list of little jobs that need doing Edit- one more thing, soon as you get the car take the wheels off in turn and carefully clean the calipers out and push each of the pistons back a bit to check they aren’t seized- each one should push back smoothly with a bit of force applied. Also clean/replace the caliper mounting pins to make sure the pads can slide easily on them. A stuck piston or pad mounting pin will mean that brake pad doesn’t release, leading to over heated fluid, warped discs and poor fuel consumption... Whilst there check the brake pads for wear, the piston dust seals are in good condition and the flexible hoses are in good condition with no cracks or bulges. Cheers Last edited by Bugjam1999; Aug 15th, 2020 at 17:59. |
Aug 15th, 2020, 18:21 | #17 | |
Torquemeister
Last Online: Apr 27th, 2024 15:06
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Asgard, Cheshire
|
Quote:
Also a good call about the brakes - look at Machine Mart for their brake piston spreader which will wind back all 4 pistons on the front calipers; because the handbrake works on a set of shoes you don't need a fancy windback tool for them - the spreader tool will fit all of the calipers unless you get an ABS-equipped car.
__________________
loki_the_glt - Skipper of the Exxon Valdez, driver of Sweden's finest sporting saloon - and pining for another Slant-4. |
|
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to loki_the_glt For This Useful Post: |
Aug 15th, 2020, 20:35 | #18 |
Junior Senior
Last Online: Apr 27th, 2024 10:19
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Hampshire
|
Glad you got sorted in the end, Chris.
Good luck with the car - you and your lad can have some enjoyable bonding to look forward to.
__________________
---------------------------------- Great spec; great build quality. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Wagon Sailor For This Useful Post: |
Aug 16th, 2020, 06:55 | #19 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 14:06
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Corby del Sol
|
Quote:
Alan |
|
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Othen For This Useful Post: |
Aug 16th, 2020, 07:03 | #20 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 14:06
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Corby del Sol
|
Quote:
Learning to weld would be a good skill. A lower end MIG welder is ideal for the thin metal on a car - and it is certainly a skill Chris's son will need a few times with an older Volvo (I found a little hole just in front on the driver's rear wheel arch the other day, some previous owner had put some filler over it (maybe 10 years ago...). I'll clean it up, make a repair patch and weld it it when it stops raining). Good fortune, time for Bob's first walk. Alan |
|
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Othen For This Useful Post: |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|