Bodywork

yragyrag90 · Mar 19th, 2012, 10:21

Ok.
So, after an MOT pass, and getting great insurance, I'm looking at treating my Tors.

I took it for a wash on Sunday, and it showed up a load of blemishes. Just grease and grime on some panels. But some significant rust too.

I'd hope to be able to shift the majority of the blemishes with a T-cut.
And then start on the rust.

But is it OK to do it in that order?

There are a few very small patches and stone chips that are rusting. How do I treat them?

And finally, the worst (visible/known) rust is around the rear, off-side wheel arch.
I only noticed the severity when it was in for its brakes the other week.
It's fairly crumbly and is right through. Leaving just the wheel-arch edge undamaged.
Does anyone know a good body welder around the North East? Someone who could tidy up that rust and perhaps give it a spray too?

jetronic63 · Mar 19th, 2012, 11:41

Personally I would sort out all of the cosmetics before you start polishing as you can see what is going to need blending in etc. If you polish it up and then need any bodywork/paint doing, you are probably going to have to repeat the process after it is completed. I would take it to a bodyshop(s) they will give you suggestions on sorting out the rust/stone-chips AND the best treatment for the paint. They will probably offer a service to re-finish the paintwork as well - depends how deep your pockets are I suppose and how much of the process your are comfortable handling

yragyrag90 · Mar 19th, 2012, 13:20

Yeah, that's it.
I was going to T-cut it to see what really needs doing.
I don't mind doing it twice, as I see sorting out the big problems and chips as being the main task this year.

The stone chips are tiny. And I'd hope to be able to fix them just by touching up.

By the way, the black (tape?) surrounding the rear windows is very shabby.
What is the normal replacement/fix for this?

Also, is there a quick/easy way of tidying up alloys? They're the spoked Tors type.

240 · Mar 19th, 2012, 19:48

i used linseed oil on the black below the windows, a good sopa wash and rinse and when dry apply the oil to the cloth and rub it in, its also brilliant for bupmers etc

yragyrag90 · Mar 20th, 2012, 09:54

Yeah, that would probably work, but the actual cover (tape?) is peeling away/cracked in places.

240 · Mar 20th, 2012, 15:56

it can still be bought new, but getting the old one off is a pain as its super sticky and you would need to remove the windows as its fitted under the rubbers, its expensives to buy mine cost £67 for both sides

tannachyallen · Mar 20th, 2012, 19:28

'Volvogue' produce them, but as 240 says, they're not cheap.

http://www.volvogue.com/Volvogue_Sho...ge&category=12

Dave A.

yragyrag90 · Mar 21st, 2012, 23:07

Hmm... Thanks.

What do you think it would look like sprayed? With a Matt black?

How much do you (anyone) think it would cost for a full-respray?

wooble · Mar 22nd, 2012, 00:12

Resprays are a tricksy business, there are a LOT of very bad sprayers out there, and you can't necessarily use the price they charge as a guide to the quality of the work done. I've seen some truly shocking resprays done for a lot of money. 80% of a good spray job is in the preparation work, you want to remove as much as possible. Lights, trim, bumpers, doorhandles, seals, anything fitted to the car body that doesn't need painting. Masking never has as good a result in my opinion. To do the job properly, you also need the windows out and ideally to dismount the doors, bonnet and wings to be sprayed separately.

John's 164RS restoration thread in the 140/164 forum is a good indication of how much effort goes into a quality paint job. To have a professional respray your car could cost you as little as £800 to thousands and thousands depending on who does it. More of the cost than you'd think is paint - decent automotive paint is anything but cheap, can sometimes be over £100 per litre!

The vinyl below the windows on mine is also shot, I'm going to remove it over the summer with a toffee wheel (search on ebay/youtube for them) - basically a soft rubber compound disc that you use in a drill and will burn off vinyl, if you hold it in one place too long it will also burn the paint off though so be careful! they're not too hard to use though. The main worry is that the paint under the vinyl will be differently faded to the rest of the car.

Mar 19th, 2012, 10:21	#1
yragyrag90 Senior Member Last Online: Jan 15th, 2019 20:45 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Newcastle	Bodywork Ok. So, after an MOT pass, and getting great insurance, I'm looking at treating my Tors. I took it for a wash on Sunday, and it showed up a load of blemishes. Just grease and grime on some panels. But some significant rust too. I'd hope to be able to shift the majority of the blemishes with a T-cut. And then start on the rust. But is it OK to do it in that order? There are a few very small patches and stone chips that are rusting. How do I treat them? And finally, the worst (visible/known) rust is around the rear, off-side wheel arch. I only noticed the severity when it was in for its brakes the other week. It's fairly crumbly and is right through. Leaving just the wheel-arch edge undamaged. Does anyone know a good body welder around the North East? Someone who could tidy up that rust and perhaps give it a spray too?

Mar 19th, 2012, 11:41	#2
jetronic63 Member Last Online: Apr 25th, 2024 13:39 Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Bournemouth View Photos By: jetronic63	Personally I would sort out all of the cosmetics before you start polishing as you can see what is going to need blending in etc. If you polish it up and then need any bodywork/paint doing, you are probably going to have to repeat the process after it is completed. I would take it to a bodyshop(s) they will give you suggestions on sorting out the rust/stone-chips AND the best treatment for the paint. They will probably offer a service to re-finish the paintwork as well - depends how deep your pockets are I suppose and how much of the process your are comfortable handling __________________ Volvo 360 GL ~ Volvo 244 GLE ~ Volvo 240 GLT ~ Volvo 760 Turbo ~ Volvo 760 GLE ~ Volvo 780 Turbo 16v

Mar 19th, 2012, 19:48	#4
240 BOB MY BIG OLD BUS Last Online: Jan 15th, 2014 01:06 Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: NORTH EAST	i used linseed oil on the black below the windows, a good sopa wash and rinse and when dry apply the oil to the cloth and rub it in, its also brilliant for bupmers etc __________________ ~ Never, ever, argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience ~

Mar 20th, 2012, 15:56	#6
240 BOB MY BIG OLD BUS Last Online: Jan 15th, 2014 01:06 Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: NORTH EAST	it can still be bought new, but getting the old one off is a pain as its super sticky and you would need to remove the windows as its fitted under the rubbers, its expensives to buy mine cost £67 for both sides __________________ ~ Never, ever, argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience ~

Mar 20th, 2012, 19:28	#7
tannachyallen 240SE Last Online: Mar 4th, 2019 20:44 Join Date: May 2007 Location: Strath Brora	'Volvogue' produce them, but as 240 says, they're not cheap. http://www.volvogue.com/Volvogue_Sho...ge&category=12 Dave A. __________________ 240 SE Auto 1991

Mar 19th, 2012, 13:20	#3
yragyrag90 Senior Member Last Online: Jan 15th, 2019 20:45 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Newcastle	Yeah, that's it. I was going to T-cut it to see what really needs doing. I don't mind doing it twice, as I see sorting out the big problems and chips as being the main task this year. The stone chips are tiny. And I'd hope to be able to fix them just by touching up. By the way, the black (tape?) surrounding the rear windows is very shabby. What is the normal replacement/fix for this? Also, is there a quick/easy way of tidying up alloys? They're the spoked Tors type.

Mar 20th, 2012, 09:54	#5
yragyrag90 Senior Member Last Online: Jan 15th, 2019 20:45 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Newcastle	Yeah, that would probably work, but the actual cover (tape?) is peeling away/cracked in places.

Mar 21st, 2012, 23:07	#8
yragyrag90 Senior Member Last Online: Jan 15th, 2019 20:45 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Newcastle	Hmm... Thanks. What do you think it would look like sprayed? With a Matt black? How much do you (anyone) think it would cost for a full-respray?

Mar 22nd, 2012, 00:12	#9
wooble Stay gold baby! Last Online: Jul 24th, 2022 16:15 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Bristol	Resprays are a tricksy business, there are a LOT of very bad sprayers out there, and you can't necessarily use the price they charge as a guide to the quality of the work done. I've seen some truly shocking resprays done for a lot of money. 80% of a good spray job is in the preparation work, you want to remove as much as possible. Lights, trim, bumpers, doorhandles, seals, anything fitted to the car body that doesn't need painting. Masking never has as good a result in my opinion. To do the job properly, you also need the windows out and ideally to dismount the doors, bonnet and wings to be sprayed separately. John's 164RS restoration thread in the 140/164 forum is a good indication of how much effort goes into a quality paint job. To have a professional respray your car could cost you as little as £800 to thousands and thousands depending on who does it. More of the cost than you'd think is paint - decent automotive paint is anything but cheap, can sometimes be over £100 per litre! The vinyl below the windows on mine is also shot, I'm going to remove it over the summer with a toffee wheel (search on ebay/youtube for them) - basically a soft rubber compound disc that you use in a drill and will burn off vinyl, if you hold it in one place too long it will also burn the paint off though so be careful! they're not too hard to use though. The main worry is that the paint under the vinyl will be differently faded to the rest of the car. Last edited by wooble; Mar 22nd, 2012 at 00:24.

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