Body/Trim: S80 Front Window Regulator Removal

[phosforous]

You can buy those clips from a Volvo dealer. They're only a few quid each.

[555teve]

How do you get the window arm to click back into the (front) slider?
No space to get anything in i.e mole grips and cannot be done by hand.(too tight)
Has anyone done this job themselves?
Any advice welcome.

[andybird]

I can't see why nut and bolt would not be a permanent fix - use a washer on both sides, Nyloc nuts and threadlock, should be absolutely fine

[Clan]

Originally Posted by 555teve

How do you get the window arm to click back into the (front) slider?
No space to get anything in i.e mole grips and cannot be done by hand.(too tight)
Has anyone done this job themselves?
Any advice welcome.

i have always used a smal pair of water pump pliers ..

[555teve]

Managed to get a large pair of stillsons in by removing the plastic box that protects the wiring harness and moving the mech up to the position where the slider was almost at the end of its travel. Thus allowing me to get the preasure needed to clip the mech back into the slider. Used the stillsons on the other slider as well which was MUCH easier to do.
Wished I had realised earlier that the plastic box (cover)allowed access from that side of the inside of the door.(I never noticed it being mentioned in any other posts.)It would have saved me alot of time and frustration.

Got the passenger side to do tommorow. Hopefully it will be realatively easy.
Fingers Crossed.

Just checked it was Large water pump pliers I used about 16"long. (wasn't sure what they were called)

[555teve]

Originally Posted by andybird

I can't see why nut and bolt would not be a permanent fix - use a washer on both sides, Nyloc nuts and threadlock, should be absolutely fine

Used this method to secure my door handle back on.
As drilling the rivets out damaged the plastic moulding.

[555teve]

Other side changed without any probs.

"Easy when you know how"

[k-dog]

I've had this problem. My regulator got wrecked so I drilled out the old one last week and now have all the parts to replace it - including a lazy tongs style rivetter.

The only thing I don't know is the size of rivets. Haynes doesn't tell me. Does anyone know what size is necessary? Is there a specific type or do they just have to fit through the hole?

Thanks.

[k-dog]

Worked it out - got 4.8mm 12mm long rivets - steel and alloy combination. Worked a treat. Very satisfying when they snap off.

The only hard part of the whole thing is getting the lifter to clip into the plastic clips - had to use mole grips to get enough force - the one accessible through the big hole was easy but it was awkward reaching through the small hole near the door.

Pleased to have a working window again though and all well greased and cleaned so shouldn't happen again.

[oragex]

Originally Posted by Clan

The cause is too much friction in the worn rubber glass runner, it would be a good idea to renew that

I also had this issue. The runner was bent near the door lock pin, and the window was forcing because of this. I removed the runner, then cut 1/8" off the part that inside the car, about half the length of the window.