Engine: 2.3 F/Inj - Purge check valve needed - Page 6

Luxobarge · Oct 9th, 2021, 14:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by s1monc

Adjust the actuator arm, don’t go mad just one or two turns and re check boost, it’s a very simple job.

I'm glad you said that, as assuming that I don't find anything else when I finish the vac hose check/replacement program, that's what I'm inclined to do - now I have a boost gauge I can check I haven't overdone it.

You say it's a simple job - can you run me through exactly how to do it? I assume the turbo heat shield has to come off, if so can you confirm exactly where all the bolts are - I can see a couple but I'm not sure if more are hidden away. Also I'd appreciate guidance on actually adjusting the arm - I assume this needs to be done from the end nearest the actual turbo assembly? Is it a nut, or do I just twist the arm, or what? Thanks!

SteveSarre · Oct 9th, 2021, 15:28

Hi Luxo

That link to an IPD video that I sent might help explain.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShldMVI2_cI

Steve

Luxobarge · Oct 9th, 2021, 16:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveSarre

Hi Luxo

That link to an IPD video that I sent might help explain.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShldMVI2_cI

Steve

It does indeed - thanks!

So I need to get the heat shield off - tips and hints welcome, is it difficult?

Cheers!

s1monc · Oct 9th, 2021, 16:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luxobarge

I'm glad you said that, as assuming that I don't find anything else when I finish the vac hose check/replacement program, that's what I'm inclined to do - now I have a boost gauge I can check I haven't overdone it.

You say it's a simple job - can you run me through exactly how to do it? I assume the turbo heat shield has to come off, if so can you confirm exactly where all the bolts are - I can see a couple but I'm not sure if more are hidden away. Also I'd appreciate guidance on actually adjusting the arm - I assume this needs to be done from the end nearest the actual turbo assembly? Is it a nut, or do I just twist the arm, or what? Thanks!

Can’t advise on the heat shield as mine doesn’t have one anymore. I plan to fabricate one though.
You need to loosen the nut in the middle of the actuator rod, it maybe a little seized so soak it with WD40 or similar. Once the nut is backed off a couple of turns remove the split pin on the end of the rod where the it hooks over the wastegate. The actuator arm/rod is in two parts and threaded in the centre where the nut locks the two parts together. When the nut is backed off you can shorten the rod length by turning it a couple of turns then hook back over onto wastegate and refit split pin, do nut back up. It should be an easy 10 minute job.

Luxobarge · Oct 12th, 2021, 14:49

Thanks again to all who have contributed to this - most helpful.

OK, I got some time yesterday and today to get stuck in to the more difficult bits of work, the objective was to

a) replace the two remaining crusty vacuum lines, the difficult one being the one from the TCV to underneath the turbo inlet
b) check the actuator arm mechanism and wind it back a turn or two
c) check the rest of the big turbo pipes to/from intercooler.

So first job was to remove the big fresh air intake pipe that goes from the MAF to the turbo intake. As already advised on here, this should be relatively easy, but wasn't for two reasons: 1) The whole lot down there was covered in oily gunk from a previous camshaft oil leak (now cured) 2) whoever had been in there before had left the screw of the big jubilee clip right underneath the pipe, totally out of sight - brilliant!
So I got a huge drip tray underneath and cleaned all the muck off as best I could with kerosene, so at least I can see what I'm dealing with. Getting at the jubilee clip screw was a nightmare, eventually I got a 7mm socket on it working purely by feel, and acquired the appropriate amount of skinned knuckles etc. in the process. But I got there. Unfortunately I broke one of the rigid PCV pipes that run down the left side of the engine in the process, but that was easily repaired with a piece of flexible pipe and more jubilee clips.

Once that was off I could get at the old vac line that goes under (and slightly to the left of) the turbo intake, although it was a struggle to get the old one off, replacement was fairly straightforward.

I also replaced the one that goes from the TRV to a port on the front of the intake manifold - beware if you do this, it's much thinner diameter tube than the others.

While doing all of this I checked the intercooler pipes which all looked good.

Next up was to look at the wastegate actuator, which required removal of the heat shield. The 3 bolts above the turbo came out fine, but there's one on the other side just to the right of the servo that was rusted in solid. I had a go at taking it out, but eventually it snapped unfortunately. I found that it doesn't actually do a lot, and put a spring in there which holds that end up fine for now.

Once the heatshield is removed checking and adjustment of the actuator arm is quite easy, and as suggested I wound it back (shorter) by a couple of turns. Then reassembled it all of course.

Has it made a difference? Difficult to say in the short test drive I took. Under hard acceleration it's peaking at about 0.7 bar (10.1 psi) for a few moments, which is not far off where it should be. I believe I'm right in saying that boost is limited in the lower gears (can anyone confirm?), and in the roads around here I can't really give it any beans in higher gears, so I think i'll reserve judgement until I can test it more fully on a decent fast road.

So, that's where I am - plan is to live with it for a while and keep an eye on the boost gauge when I'm on a decently fast road and see where we are and how it goes.

Thanks again to all - hope this is useful/interesting!

Cheers

Pupbelly · Oct 12th, 2021, 17:13

All sounds positive. I’m still away from home on holiday so I can’t offer any input from my side yet. As I posted on my other ‘boost’ thread I’ve purchased a replacement electronic solenoid purge valve from eBay. The part number is also used on the Audi TT and I picked one up for peanuts so thought I may exchange it when I do the replacement (new) one way valve.

There’s thoughts as to whether there could be knock sensor issues causing boost hold backs which is feasible but until I’ve installed my new silicone DO88 pipe work I’m not going to go down that route just yet but certainly an avenue I’ll explore.

andrewc1267 · Oct 13th, 2021, 00:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pupbelly

All sounds positive. I’m still away from home on holiday so I can’t offer any input from my side yet. As I posted on my other ‘boost’ thread I’ve purchased a replacement electronic solenoid purge valve from eBay. The part number is also used on the Audi TT and I picked one up for peanuts so thought I may exchange it when I do the replacement (new) one way valve.

There’s thoughts as to whether there could be knock sensor issues causing boost hold backs which is feasible but until I’ve installed my new silicone DO88 pipe work I’m not going to go down that route just yet but certainly an avenue I’ll explore.

Might be a bit late on this thread but I had the same issue with the one way valves so I bought these

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Non-Retur...-127635-2958-0

And a length of pipe and made it up and it works great

Oct 9th, 2021, 15:28	#52
SteveSarre Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 22:08 Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: London/West Country	Hi Luxo That link to an IPD video that I sent might help explain. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShldMVI2_cI Steve __________________ V70 2.5 Turbo AWD Man. 1999 Red V70 2.5 10V Auto 1998 Green C70 T 20V Auto Conv. 2001 Blue, C70 T5 Auto Conv. 2000 Blue V70 2.5 Turbo AWD Auto 1998 Green, V70 2.5 10V Auto BiFuel 1999 Red (scrapped) V70 20v Auto 1999 Green (scrapped)

Oct 12th, 2021, 14:49	#55
Luxobarge Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 09:37 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Horne (Nr. Horley)	Thanks again to all who have contributed to this - most helpful. OK, I got some time yesterday and today to get stuck in to the more difficult bits of work, the objective was to a) replace the two remaining crusty vacuum lines, the difficult one being the one from the TCV to underneath the turbo inlet b) check the actuator arm mechanism and wind it back a turn or two c) check the rest of the big turbo pipes to/from intercooler. So first job was to remove the big fresh air intake pipe that goes from the MAF to the turbo intake. As already advised on here, this should be relatively easy, but wasn't for two reasons: 1) The whole lot down there was covered in oily gunk from a previous camshaft oil leak (now cured) 2) whoever had been in there before had left the screw of the big jubilee clip right underneath the pipe, totally out of sight - brilliant! So I got a huge drip tray underneath and cleaned all the muck off as best I could with kerosene, so at least I can see what I'm dealing with. Getting at the jubilee clip screw was a nightmare, eventually I got a 7mm socket on it working purely by feel, and acquired the appropriate amount of skinned knuckles etc. in the process. But I got there. Unfortunately I broke one of the rigid PCV pipes that run down the left side of the engine in the process, but that was easily repaired with a piece of flexible pipe and more jubilee clips. Once that was off I could get at the old vac line that goes under (and slightly to the left of) the turbo intake, although it was a struggle to get the old one off, replacement was fairly straightforward. I also replaced the one that goes from the TRV to a port on the front of the intake manifold - beware if you do this, it's much thinner diameter tube than the others. While doing all of this I checked the intercooler pipes which all looked good. Next up was to look at the wastegate actuator, which required removal of the heat shield. The 3 bolts above the turbo came out fine, but there's one on the other side just to the right of the servo that was rusted in solid. I had a go at taking it out, but eventually it snapped unfortunately. I found that it doesn't actually do a lot, and put a spring in there which holds that end up fine for now. Once the heatshield is removed checking and adjustment of the actuator arm is quite easy, and as suggested I wound it back (shorter) by a couple of turns. Then reassembled it all of course. Has it made a difference? Difficult to say in the short test drive I took. Under hard acceleration it's peaking at about 0.7 bar (10.1 psi) for a few moments, which is not far off where it should be. I believe I'm right in saying that boost is limited in the lower gears (can anyone confirm?), and in the roads around here I can't really give it any beans in higher gears, so I think i'll reserve judgement until I can test it more fully on a decent fast road. So, that's where I am - plan is to live with it for a while and keep an eye on the boost gauge when I'm on a decently fast road and see where we are and how it goes. Thanks again to all - hope this is useful/interesting! Cheers __________________ Some people are like Slinkies, they serve no useful purpose but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them downstairs.

Oct 12th, 2021, 17:13	#56
Pupbelly Member Last Online: Jan 26th, 2023 13:31 Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: Maidstone, Kent (But Yorkshire born & bred)	All sounds positive. I’m still away from home on holiday so I can’t offer any input from my side yet. As I posted on my other ‘boost’ thread I’ve purchased a replacement electronic solenoid purge valve from eBay. The part number is also used on the Audi TT and I picked one up for peanuts so thought I may exchange it when I do the replacement (new) one way valve. There’s thoughts as to whether there could be knock sensor issues causing boost hold backs which is feasible but until I’ve installed my new silicone DO88 pipe work I’m not going to go down that route just yet but certainly an avenue I’ll explore.

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