Amazon: Some very basic questions

[telboyofpeckham]

As a new, nearly owner can I get some basic advice.

Or useful links to existing threads.

What is the situation with the B18 engine (twin SU) & unleaded fuel. The car has not been used for 10 years so I would assume that no modified head has been fitted.

Is there any alternative to a head modified for unleaded?

What is the best workshop manual to buy? Haynes?

What is the wheel stud spacing? Is it the same as any other manufacturer?

Cheers, Terry

[amazondean]

Your last question worries me slightly. You say that you will soon be an owner so i presume you haven't bought it yet. If i were you i would get someone to go with you that has good knowledge of classics and give the car a very good going over. Without trying to sound negative your questions give me the impression that you don't have much idea. Remember that the metal detector has to find ten thousend pieces of junk before a piece of treasure is found.

[Colonel Froth]

I remember someone saying that the B18 and B20 run fine for a while on unleaded but the valve guides wear down. On a different site I saw a guy who'd pulled what was left of his valves from the head, they were quite badly burnt which he attributed to unleaded.

I don't know about any other manuals but the Haynes has been just about good enough for most situations I've encountered. Never quite as much detail as you'd like, and the car he was wrenching on wasn't aged as they are now.

The pcd is 5x4.5", old US Ford are too, I think someone said old Dodge used that pcd too.
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=43890

Not sure which direction you're thinking of taking but this might be of interest
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=37385
And hey, if you want to swap that estate for one that actually needs a bit of work, none of that barn-find nonsense, just let me know

[Burdekin]

If the car hasn't had the head done for unleaded you should consider a lead subsitute for your fuel. I've looked around and from what I can see this is good and well priced: Castrol Valvemaster Plus. You can buy it cheaper and in bulk on ebay as well...

[Alf ista]

Hi Terry,
I would use a good lead replacement like Castrol with octane boost. Thats what I use anyway.
The wheels have the same pcd as old Ford Mustangs as far as I am aware.
Hugh.

[telboyofpeckham]

Don't worry AmazonDean I'm OK. I can understand your concern & it is appreciated. They do seem like very basic questions but I am pretty sharp.

This is the standard of the restorations that I do. I do them based upon research. I am a first time Volvo owner but have had & restored 8 classics in my life.

I'm really looking forward to this one.

Cheers, Terry

[amazondean]

I have just found your last post on your new purchase and i am very impressed. The car looks as it should. Infact it is the best estate i have seen for a very long time unless there are concerns not in the pictures but the pictures gives me the impression that the car is a superb find.

Regarding the unleaded fiasco. You will be fine running on unleaded for years as long as you don't thrash the car, which i presume owning an estate, that wont happen. eventualy you may need hardened valve seats but other than that you would be unlucky if anything else needs doing. I have been running my classics for at least fifteen years on unleaded and only when my mgb's head gasket went i machined and fitted hardened exhaust valve seats in. There was some pitting to the exhaust seats but other than that everything else was fine. Don't be fooled by those stupid gadgets that you throw in the tank, just use unleaded and forget about it.
By the way, when i found my estate it was of very similar condition and totaly original in 2001. It had twin carbs and overdrive too. I restored it to its now condition for around £500 plus the purchas price of £800. That was over seven years ago and still looks stunning.

Your car is one of those finds that i would get very excited about restoring. Knowing that it will be a very pleasurable restoration and not needing to throw thousends of pounds at it. I give you ten out of ten without doubt. Very well done indeed.

[austingipsy]

If you ever spot a copy of the Intereurope manual for the amazon pounce on it. There are very good diagrams taken from the original green volvo manuals. And of course if you can pick up the volvo ones that's even better. Heavier mind !

[222s]

The Volvo factory workshop manuals and parts books are all available to download here:

www.volvoamazonpictures.se

[redcar]

Originally Posted by Colonel Froth

I remember someone saying that the B18 and B20 run fine for a while on unleaded but the valve guides wear down. On a different site I saw a guy who'd pulled what was left of his valves from the head, they were quite badly burnt which he attributed to unleaded.

I don't know about any other manuals but the Haynes has been just about good enough for most situations I've encountered. Never quite as much detail as you'd like, and the car he was wrenching on wasn't aged as they are now.

The pcd is 5x4.5", old US Ford are too, I think someone said old Dodge used that pcd too.
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=43890

Not sure which direction you're thinking of taking but this might be of interest
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=37385
And hey, if you want to swap that estate for one that actually needs a bit of work, none of that barn-find nonsense, just let me know

just a bit of digging i've been doing... and correct me if i'm wrong, but..

if you convert 4.5" into metric, you get 114.3mm. now, if you search the web for 5/114.3 PCD (5 lug bolt pattern), you'll find there are millions of cars, wheel manufacturers that make this configuration, thus opening up your choice a bit.. happy hunting..