Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > 300/66 Series General

Notices

300/66 Series General Forum for the Volvo 340, 360 and 66 cars

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

340 1.4 rough ans slow idling

Views : 53450

Replies : 219

Users Viewing This Thread :  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old May 26th, 2021, 23:09   #11
Two340'sman
Member
 

Last Online: Mar 19th, 2023 20:39
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: London
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
Good idea pumping it out! If you can, put it in a clear container to settle, you'll see the condensation/water at the bottom if you happen to pump any out from the bottom of the tank.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
What about a 25L tub from somewhere? Many places that use clear plastic 25L tubs are happy to let one go free or for tuppence ha'penny and a brass farthing.

Pumping from the carb feed pipe would also mean you're pumping from the bottom of the tank so likely to get a lot of the condensation - could be why when you did similar and got the engine started you pulled through some petrol instead of condensation.
The large clear container would have to be petrol resistant of course. What I'll probably do is run the car a bit tomorrow, may put in a new set of plugs, over the weekend get a 5 gallon jerrycan from a friend and pump out a lot.

This is the pump I bought three years ago, works fine, just a bit noisy.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363392093855
Two340'sman is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Two340'sman For This Useful Post:
Old May 26th, 2021, 23:29   #12
Laird Scooby
Premier Member
 
Laird Scooby's Avatar
 

Last Online: Yesterday 23:21
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Two340'sman View Post
The large clear container would have to be petrol resistant of course. What I'll probably do is run the car a bit tomorrow, may put in a new set of plugs, over the weekend get a 5 gallon jerrycan from a friend and pump out a lot.

This is the pump I bought three years ago, works fine, just a bit noisy.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363392093855
That's true about the container but most PVC and similar containers will hold petrol for a sensible amount of time.

I'd hold on putting new plugs in until you solve the petrol problem or at least have got the meths in the tank and driven it a bit. Simple reason being, a new plug might be faulty - it's rare but not unknown - you may have cleared the fault but by fitting the new, faulty plug have unwittingly created another with similar symptoms.
__________________
Cheers
Dave

Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........
Laird Scooby is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Laird Scooby For This Useful Post:
Old May 26th, 2021, 23:46   #13
Two340'sman
Member
 

Last Online: Mar 19th, 2023 20:39
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: London
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
That's true about the container but most PVC and similar containers will hold petrol for a sensible amount of time.

I'd hold on putting new plugs in until you solve the petrol problem or at least have got the meths in the tank and driven it a bit. Simple reason being, a new plug might be faulty - it's rare but not unknown - you may have cleared the fault but by fitting the new, faulty plug have unwittingly created another with similar symptoms.
Yes, one change at a time. I had read that a faulty/dirty plug could cause bad idle.

Years ago with my 1100cc Classic Mini, I ran it for decades on Champion plugs, just for a change went to a set of Bosch plugs, immediately a bit of insulator fell off the plug. Amazingly engine was still OK after this. I still have the 1962 Mini (bought it in 1968) and put in a Morris 1100 engine, modified with 12G295 head, duplex timing gears and a single 1 1/2" SU, 3.44 final drive.

The car would easily exceed 100 MPH, still have the Mini.
Two340'sman is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Two340'sman For This Useful Post:
Old May 26th, 2021, 23:57   #14
Laird Scooby
Premier Member
 
Laird Scooby's Avatar
 

Last Online: Yesterday 23:21
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Two340'sman View Post
Yes, one change at a time. I had read that a faulty/dirty plug could cause bad idle.

Years ago with my 1100cc Classic Mini, I ran it for decades on Champion plugs, just for a change went to a set of Bosch plugs, immediately a bit of insulator fell off the plug. Amazingly engine was still OK after this. I still have the 1962 Mini (bought it in 1968) and put in a Morris 1100 engine, modified with 12G295 head, duplex timing gears and a single 1 1/2" SU, 3.44 final drive.

The car would easily exceed 100 MPH, still have the Mini.
That was sheer bad luck with the insulator on the Bosch plug - chances are it had been dropped in the shop or somewhere between manufacture and purchase at least.
I had a set of Champion plugs once, lasted about 70 miles. Never again! Also known so many of them misfire from new in others cars that i wouldn't dream of fitting them to anything i owned except in an emergncy - which was why the set i had for 70 miles were fitted.

These days i only use and recommend NGK plugs, had a few "less than good" experiences with Bosch plugs and since i've discovered Honda PGM-Fi and its intricacies, have come to the conclusion that Bosch Jetronic and Motronic isn't as good as it's made out to be!

Sounds like some very useful mods on your Mini (a proper Mini, unlike the new one!), Minis aren't my thing (i find the driving position uncomfortbale) but if i had one i'd be tempted to do very similar but with the 1275cc lump rather than the 1098 and either a twin sequential choke Weber (32/34DMTL or similar) or a pair of 1 1/4 SUs, LCB manifold and a slightly sporty sounding stainless exhaust system.
__________________
Cheers
Dave

Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........
Laird Scooby is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Laird Scooby For This Useful Post:
Old May 27th, 2021, 00:03   #15
Clan
Experienced Member
 
Clan's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 01:00
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: L/H side
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Two340'sman View Post
Hi there, I'd be grateful for some advice.

My 340GL manual has run well for years.

A few days ago I filled up at the local Asda Petrol Station, after a short distance the car was tending to stall and tickover slower than usual and rough, something like 200 RPM.

The next morning I started the car and again had the same problem I disconnected the fuel feed to the carb and pumped out about 2 litres of fuel. Reconnected the feed and car ran OK. The next day I did a round trip of about 10 Miles and the car was fine. However, today the car is playing up with the same erratic and slow idle.

I did contact Asda about the possibility of contaminated fuel, they responded on the day that I filled up, several hundred cars filled from the same tank and no reported problems other than mine.

I have checked distributor, rotor arm, air filter and for air leaks around carb. The ignition leads are fairly new.

Of course, MOT is due soon, so I need to resolve this. Many thanks in advance.
Take out the electric idle solenoid from the carburettor , pull the jet off the end and look carefully for dirt , I assume it goes ok once you get going and the trouble is only when idling?
There should be an in-line filter in the hose between the pump and carburettor , it was a service item back then .. be very careful when tightening the solenoid , not very tight ...


With the ignition on take the wire off the above solenoid and touch it back on and off a few times , there should be a defined click each time it opens and closes .
__________________
My comments are only based on my opinions and vast experience .
Clan is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Clan For This Useful Post:
Old May 27th, 2021, 00:12   #16
Two340'sman
Member
 

Last Online: Mar 19th, 2023 20:39
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: London
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
That was sheer bad luck with the insulator on the Bosch plug - chances are it had been dropped in the shop or somewhere between manufacture and purchase at least.
I had a set of Champion plugs once, lasted about 70 miles. Never again! Also known so many of them misfire from new in others cars that i wouldn't dream of fitting them to anything i owned except in an emergncy - which was why the set i had for 70 miles were fitted.

These days i only use and recommend NGK plugs, had a few "less than good" experiences with Bosch plugs and since i've discovered Honda PGM-Fi and its intricacies, have come to the conclusion that Bosch Jetronic and Motronic isn't as good as it's made out to be!

Sounds like some very useful mods on your Mini (a proper Mini, unlike the new one!), Minis aren't my thing (i find the driving position uncomfortbale) but if i had one i'd be tempted to do very similar but with the 1275cc lump rather than the 1098 and either a twin sequential choke Weber (32/34DMTL or similar) or a pair of 1 1/4 SUs, LCB manifold and a slightly sporty sounding stainless exhaust system.
Yes, standard Mini seats and driving position are uncomfortable. Actually my Mini has a 1275 unit in it now (from a Vanden Plas 1300, single 1 1/2" version). Not really any more performance than the 1100 (a particularly good build, which I still have.

I did have a Vanden Plas 1300 (twin carb version), beautiful car with all that wood and leather, would move quite fast too. Gave the car away, fool!
Two340'sman is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Two340'sman For This Useful Post:
Old May 27th, 2021, 00:20   #17
Two340'sman
Member
 

Last Online: Mar 19th, 2023 20:39
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: London
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clan View Post
Take out the electric idle solenoid from the carburettor , pull the jet off the end and look carefully for dirt , I assume it goes ok once you get going and the trouble is only when idling?
There should be an in-line filter in the hose between the pump and carburettor , it was a service item back then .. be very careful when tightening the solenoid , not very tight ...


With the ignition on take the wire off the above solenoid and touch it back on and off a few times , there should be a defined click each time it opens and closes .
Thank you, I'll have to look at the manual to see which this is. I think there is only one electrical wire to the carb, and I thought that was an anti run on thing. The main trouble is idling, but the car is a bit hesitant to drive above idle.

Yes, there is an inline filter, I had though of replacing it. Looks clean, but has been there many years. I'll look for one on ebay.
Two340'sman is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Two340'sman For This Useful Post:
Old May 27th, 2021, 00:27   #18
Laird Scooby
Premier Member
 
Laird Scooby's Avatar
 

Last Online: Yesterday 23:21
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Two340'sman View Post
Thank you, I'll have to look at the manual to see which this is. I think there is only one electrical wire to the carb, and I thought that was an anti run on thing. The main trouble is idling, but the car is a bit hesitant to drive above idle.

Yes, there is an inline filter, I had though of replacing it. Looks clean, but has been there many years. I'll look for one on ebay.
Its official name is an anti-dieseling valve, also called anti-run-on solenoid, idle valve, idle solenoid and a few others. Usually if it's playing up it will stop it idling completely and also prevent starting, not let it start and idle roughly. Usually they're one of those things that either work or not, no half measures.

Usually if the valve plays up, driving above idle is ok but it won't idle and won't start without throttle.
__________________
Cheers
Dave

Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........
Laird Scooby is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Laird Scooby For This Useful Post:
Old May 27th, 2021, 00:35   #19
Two340'sman
Member
 

Last Online: Mar 19th, 2023 20:39
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: London
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
Its official name is an anti-dieseling valve, also called anti-run-on solenoid, idle valve, idle solenoid and a few others. Usually if it's playing up it will stop it idling completely and also prevent starting, not let it start and idle roughly. Usually they're one of those things that either work or not, no half measures.

Usually if the valve plays up, driving above idle is ok but it won't idle and won't start without throttle.
Thank you, car starts from cold (with choke of course, and that gives fast idle). I do have somewhere one of these valves with the tip cut off. I believe that this was a mod done when the valve fails.
Two340'sman is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Two340'sman For This Useful Post:
Old May 27th, 2021, 11:51   #20
Two340'sman
Member
 

Last Online: Mar 19th, 2023 20:39
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: London
Default

Today, checked the anti-dieselling valve and it clicks when disconnecting the lead when ignition is on. Also disconnected the lead to it when engine is idling, engine stalls, so valve appears to be good. Also removed it from car and applied poer, seems to work OK, gave it a clean away and put it back. Car still idles badly.
Two340'sman is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Two340'sman For This Useful Post:
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 09:43.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.