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1972 pv1800es

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Old Oct 10th, 2021, 12:43   #241
Othen
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
First thing i'd try Alan is removing the seal from the body, soaking it in a strong, hot solution of washing up liquid, cleaning it meticulously (Dan won't mind if you use his toothbrush! ) then dry it thoroughly and rub silicone grease into the seal, let it soak in, wipe off the excess then refit. That may be all it needs to stop the leak but also look further up for the source of the leak, it's not unknown for a leak higher up to run by capilliary action and appear somewhere else.
Many thanks Dave - good advice as always.

Alan

PS. I don't think Dan would agree about the toothbrush.
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Old Oct 10th, 2021, 12:56   #242
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Consider just replacing the seal with a new one. Listed here as the tailgate seal.

https://classicvolvoparts.co.uk/part...mets_and_Plugs
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Old Oct 10th, 2021, 13:08   #243
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Many thanks Dave - good advice as always.

Alan

PS. I don't think Dan would agree about the toothbrush.
I was sure when i wrote that you wouldn't even think about using his toothbrush but a nylon nail brush or similar. Hopefully the cleaning and reviving with the silicone grease does the job, if not my next suggestion would have been :



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Consider just replacing the seal with a new one. Listed here as the tailgate seal.

https://classicvolvoparts.co.uk/part...mets_and_Plugs
Good find, surprised they are still available! Maybe they also do tailgate seals for the 760, i'll have to have a search!
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Old Oct 10th, 2021, 13:24   #244
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Default drain holes

Hi

Water collection in the area you talk about is a problem and I replaced my rubber seal with one from brookhouse it wasn't an expensive item. It is also an area that can suffer from corrosion due to it being wet.
There should be 2 driain holes in the bottom channel about an inch in from the sides. These holes are connected with some small rubber tube to drain the area with the outlet under the rear bumper. These tubes are usually blocked up as they have a small diameter.( size of a small electrical scewdriver) You might find there are still there, take off the rear carpet strip and you should be to see the location of these drain holes . I have taken a photo so you can locate them it is just by the white wire, sorry about quality my garage is very dark.
I hope this helps you.

Gavin
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Old Oct 10th, 2021, 13:32   #245
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Consider just replacing the seal with a new one. Listed here as the tailgate seal.

https://classicvolvoparts.co.uk/part...mets_and_Plugs
Wonderful, the exact seal is still available, thank you.

I think the answer is to take the seal off, clean it, spray it with some HD silicone I haven then re-fit it carefully (I think sealing up the join with some silicone). If that doesn't work then replace the seal (not too expensive either).

Alan
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Old Oct 10th, 2021, 13:35   #246
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Hi

Water collection in the area you talk about is a problem and I replaced my rubber seal with one from brookhouse it wasn't an expensive item. It is also an area that can suffer from corrosion due to it being wet.
There should be 2 driain holes in the bottom channel about an inch in from the sides. These holes are connected with some small rubber tube to drain the area with the outlet under the rear bumper. These tubes are usually blocked up as they have a small diameter.( size of a small electrical scewdriver) You might find there are still there, take off the rear carpet strip and you should be to see the location of these drain holes . I have taken a photo so you can locate them it is just by the white wire, sorry about quality my garage is very dark.
I hope this helps you.

Gavin
Hi Gavin,

Now that really is useful. I had a feeling there ought to be some drain holes and rather suspect they have been filled up during the body work and redecoration. Now I know where to look I can either find the originals or drill some more.

Many thanks.

Alan
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Old Oct 10th, 2021, 16:39   #247
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Hi Gavin,

Now that really is useful. I had a feeling there ought to be some drain holes and rather suspect they have been filled up during the body work and redecoration. Now I know where to look I can either find the originals or drill some more.

Many thanks.

Alan
Hi Alan,

They are not just drilled holes, they originally had a short length of steel tubing welded to the aperture of the hole underneath to which the rubber pipe is connected (push fit). They are about an inch inboard of the outermost horizontal screws which secure the stainless steel hatch trim if that makes sense? and that is the area to go digging if it looks like they have been seam sealed over (a common issue) by an inexperienced bodyshop.

Possibly the best way if your holes have been filled in and cannot be resurrected is to drill a hole and insert some type of plastic tube with a splayed or washered top to stop it dropping through? this needs to be long enough to thread beyond the boot floor and into the rear valance area to ensure that water is kept well away from the cavity to prevent further corrosion.

Sadly a design fault with the ES and the cause of many rotted-out rear panels when the tubes become blocked. I push a length of 10 amp wire through mine annually to keep them clear.

Hope this helps,

Paul
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Old Oct 10th, 2021, 18:06   #248
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Default drain holes

Hi Alan

Just remembered I had some better photos of my car.
I have put some red lines on the picture to show location of drain holes.

Gavin
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Old Oct 10th, 2021, 20:45   #249
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Hi Alan,

They are not just drilled holes, they originally had a short length of steel tubing welded to the aperture of the hole underneath to which the rubber pipe is connected (push fit). They are about an inch inboard of the outermost horizontal screws which secure the stainless steel hatch trim if that makes sense? and that is the area to go digging if it looks like they have been seam sealed over (a common issue) by an inexperienced bodyshop.

Possibly the best way if your holes have been filled in and cannot be resurrected is to drill a hole and insert some type of plastic tube with a splayed or washered top to stop it dropping through? this needs to be long enough to thread beyond the boot floor and into the rear valance area to ensure that water is kept well away from the cavity to prevent further corrosion.

Sadly a design fault with the ES and the cause of many rotted-out rear panels when the tubes become blocked. I push a length of 10 amp wire through mine annually to keep them clear.

Hope this helps,

Paul
Quote:
Originally Posted by volvobysea View Post
Hi Alan

Just remembered I had some better photos of my car.
I have put some red lines on the picture to show location of drain holes.

Gavin
Hi Paul and Gavin,

Thank you so much. Now I’m making progress - I should be able to either find the drains, or if not then fabricate an alternative solution.

The exceptional value of this forum is demonstrated yet again.

Alan
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Old Oct 11th, 2021, 10:22   #250
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Hi Paul and Gavin,

Thank you so much. Now I’m making progress - I should be able to either find the drains, or if not then fabricate an alternative solution.

The exceptional value of this forum is demonstrated yet again.

Alan
Hi again chaps,

Thank you so much for your help. As a result of the information you gave me we have almost solved the puzzle of the missing drain holes. I've just been over to visit Delores at 'Janet's' house and found:

It looks like the the drain holes have been filled over:



... but the good news is that the welded on tubes (and even the plastic pipes) are still in place:



This is good news. I didn't have time to investigate further today, but 'Janet' will try a bradawl or some wire from the bottom to see if the holes can be located on the top surface - it should be possible to push out the filler and re-fit the pipes so the problem is fixed. In extremis I may need to drill the holes out again if they have been welded over.

Many thanks chaps - we are almost there.

Alan
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