Handbrake doesn't hold downhill

[DeanH]

Thanks for all the replies.

I've already replaced both handbrake cables at the same time so they shouldn't be binding.

Adjusters and genuine pads have been ordered now, as some have said you shouldn't need the adjusters but I can't be bothered taking it apart again if the pads don't cure it alone.

I'll hopefully get them fitted once it's cooled down a bit. Will report back.

[stuart bowes]

I see them as an improvement, yeah I could have just left the brakes without them and they were working, but with them they work better: less handle travel and more adjustability per wheel which actually I find useful because the 'balance bar' thing actually doesn't pull the cables evenly so one adjuster is wound out a notch or two more on one side to get them feeling the same (admittedly not measured with any technical machinery or anything)

Now obviously as long as they hold the car sufficiently, how important is it that they are balanced evenly. I guess that depends how picky you are. It probably doesn't actually matter at all but I would know and it would annoy me lol

also it just gives you options.. like on my bike I can adjust my brakes at the caliper, and at the handle bar - is that really necessary, no, but it's useful to set it up perfectly with the handlebar adjuster wound right in, so that over time I can make adjustments really easily up the front, as the pads wear

Bit of a rant I guess but basically I see them as a personal choice as opposed to a bodge

[nickbw898]

If you are using "star wheel" adjusters in place of the original Volvo arrangement that is a good way to go. Correct adjustment is to slacken off the 10 mm adjuster at the hand brake and then use a screwdriver on each star wheel through one of the wheel stud bolt holes until the hub/disk locks, then back off so that it just turns without dragging. Refit road wheels, then adjust at handbrake until three clicks on the ratchet apply the brake.
The drum brakes need to be understood in relation to their design ie leading/trailing shoe. See https://www.ques10.com/p/20780/short...trailing-shoe/

[DeanH]

For what it's worth I've just finished fitting genuine pads and star adjusters. Not sure which one fixed it but it seems to have worked!

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by DeanH

For what it's worth I've just finished fitting genuine pads and star adjusters. Not sure which one fixed it but it seems to have worked!

Given the adjusters weren't fitted from new and the handbrake worked fine, the adjusters won't have been the solution.

There's a lot of talk across many threads about winding the adjusters until the wheel drags like that's enough.
Having fixed several handbrakes now, you can actually wind adjusters until the wheel fully locks but once the full weight of the car is on the ground, the wheels will turn freely.

Correctly adjusted genuine or ATE pads and cables are all that's required for a spot on handbrake.
I've said it before and I'll repeat it..... Adjusters are an unnecessary addition.

[DeanH]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

Given the adjusters weren't fitted from new and the handbrake worked fine, the adjusters won't have been the solution.

There's a lot of talk across many threads about winding the adjusters until the wheel drags like that's enough.
Having fixed several handbrakes now, you can actually wind adjusters until the wheel fully locks but once the full weight of the car is on the ground, the wheels will turn freely.

Correctly adjusted genuine or ATE pads and cables are all that's required for a spot on handbrake.
I've said it before and I'll repeat it..... Adjusters are an unnecessary addition.

Yeah, obviously it left the factory without so it can work without. I just didn't fancy taking it apart twice to find out.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by DeanH

Yeah, obviously it left the factory without so it can work without. I just didn't fancy taking it apart twice to find out.

There's no surprises if the job is done right so you wouldn't have needed to take it apart again as you were fitting the correct parts (apart from the adjusters )

I don't know how many years ago the mechanical adjusters theory started but it's added an unnecessary layer of confusion to an otherwise straightforward job.

[stuart bowes]

I hate to disagree when someone clearly has years of experience.. and no disrespect intended.. but in my experience, having done the job without them, tested, then added oem shoes, tested, and then added adjusters, I have to beg to differ

As I said above yes they did work without them as in they were satisfactory and probably would pass an mot

But with them, they're indisputably better, specifically in that the handbrake lever requires less travel and both sides lock up to the same tightness. With the caveat that without an actual mot test before and after I don't have any specific test readings from both sides - this is purely judged by hand how each side felt when trying to turn them with a bar

I wouldn't go so far as to insist that they're necessary by any means but i certainly can't accept that they're pointless

The only possible part that might be causing me 'problems' I will accept is the short cable and balancing piece which I haven't replaced, I'd be willing to accept maybe I should have replaced that (the swivel moves freely and it didn't seem to be stretched or damaged..) But everything else is new

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by stuart bowes

As I said above yes they did work without them as in they were satisfactory and probably would pass an mot....

It wouldn't probably pass an MOT, it passes easily every time year after year.
It holds the car on one click in most circumstances and 3 clicks max on any incline.

Originally Posted by stuart bowes

The only possible part that might be causing me 'problems' I will accept is the short cable and balancing piece which I haven't replaced,

With due respect, if you have fitted brand new cables but still have an almost 20 year old short cable, the job was partially done so I'm not surprised that you're non plussed without the adjusters.

My 14 year old short cable was stretched, frayed and a couple of the strands were all but snapped

I'd spend the adjusters money on a new short cable and the only adjustment the handbrake will ever need will be on the single nut under the lever gaiter. Takes me 5 minutes every 2-3 years.

I've not formed my opinion on the adjusters based on a theory, I've tried them and several people whose cars I've worked on have tried them.
I don't think I said they're pointless but they're not necessary.

[stuart bowes]

That's probably fair but I would say there definitely didn't seem to be any need to replace the short piece, no fraying, signs of ageing or anything, and bearing in mind it had done something like 55k at the time..

I might replace it though just to see if it really does make a difference

But seeing as we're both saying it's not necessary and the only difference is I think of it as prefrence.. at the very least it's not a negative thing and they're dirt cheap so let's just agree to disagree