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'98 V70 T5 occasionally cuts uut when not under load.

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Old Jul 23rd, 2021, 09:05   #11
Donmac
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Originally Posted by Distendo View Post
'98 V70 T5 occasionally cuts out when not under load.

When idling, or when rolling (i.e under momentum, without needing propulsion), on a few occasions it has just died*. Starts again no problem. Sometimes I think I feel it briefly 'hesitate' when under load.

Warm engine, no other glitches.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

*Disconcerting in the middle of a 3-point turn (steering and brakes).
Had similar symptoms twice recently with my '98 C70 T5 Auto.

First time was in spring when after a succession of stutters and stalls the Lambda emission light came on. It was tracked to the recently replaced Barometric Pressure Sensor - replacement with a German made one cured the issue.

Recently the engine has just 'stopped' when idling or travelling at walking speed. It's not unknown for fuel pump relays to cause this symptom so, it got changed yesterday and I'll keep my fingers crossed for a week or two.

FWIW I ruled out ignition as the distributer, rotor arm, leads and plugs are all genuine Volvo and less than 6 months old.

Just my ha'pence worth, hope it helps
Don
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Old Jul 23rd, 2021, 12:46   #12
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Could be a relay issue that shows itself once the car is warm i.e. the contacts separate just enough to cause a glitch, but I would have thought it would be more apparent than just at low speeds.

Have you checked the fuel pump wiring, could be an earthing issue causing a slight break? Blocked / starved fuel filter/pump?

Could be a general earth break somewhere if the engine moves a bit at slow speeds as you take up drive causing a connector or wire to pull and disconnect briefly??

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Old Jul 23rd, 2021, 17:13   #13
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I feel for you, this is the worst kind of fault. Had similar - fuel pump relay would drop out, in my case I had a clue. I didn't get a code but could hear the fuel pump running 4-5 mins after ignition OFF, the FPR would stick ON and randomly drop. But without that clue, reckon I'd be at it now.
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Old Jul 25th, 2021, 17:16   #14
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Ok, since the dist cap, rotor, ht leads etc are all pretty new, and this was something I could do straight away, I did the idle air controller degunking thing, as per RollingThunder's suggestion (and thanks very much for the link to the picture essay), which went well enough.
I used carb cleaner as solvent. A lot of blackened fluid poured out, but eventually it came up shiny.
Time to test. Flat battery...
Later, took it for a short test drive, and since, on a few longer drives.

I think it's probably not tempting fate too much to say the issue appears cured. In fact, it appears subtly smoother at any rev (is that likely, or is it just my wishful thinking?).

Thanks to everyone who offered advice and observations (relays,wiring, sensors etc. duly noted for future ref.): it's truly good to receive such support. Good on yer!
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Old Jul 26th, 2021, 22:53   #15
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Great news it’s sorted (Shhhh!!) On a side note, what causes these idle air values to get gunky? Is it a PCV breather issue or poor air filter quality?
Sounds like oily fumes are being drawn through the unit causing issues long term. Anyone able to advise?
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Old Jul 27th, 2021, 09:23   #16
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225,000 miles on the clock probably had something to do with it.
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Old Jul 27th, 2021, 13:52   #17
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A bit of Googling offered this which makes interesting reading on how it works:

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/fu...0-70Series.pdf
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Old Aug 1st, 2021, 13:08   #18
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Oil gets everywhere in these turbocharged 5 pots on the cold side and gunks up the intercooler, ICV, throttle body, intake manifold and injectors as they get older.

One cure - regular and proactive maintenance on the PCV system and Turbo. If either have exceeded 80k miles (less for modified cars with extra BHP and the associate wear) you'll be seeing excessive oil vapor drawn from worn turbo seals or blocked/restricted recirculation pipework and fired through the cold side air intake from the turbo. Replace CHRA, vac pipework & PCV if in doubt.

That's not to say worn rings won't push more oil into the recirculation, but that's a whole separate thread, and it's also important to ensure the ignition system is in tip top shape as well to ensure clean firing and hot burn on each cylinder.

Every major service I strip the lot down, clean, inspect & replace any suspect items.

You'll always get the odd random & irritating issues sometimes with cars of this age - worn contacts/fuses/failing sensors being the main culprits- but if you know the mechanicals are solid then it makes fault finding much simpler & quicker.
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Old Aug 9th, 2021, 19:26   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Distendo View Post
Thanks for the notions there, andrewc1267.

Not familiar with ETS. I found this description: "Electronic Throttle System (ETS) including the Electronic Throttle Module (ETM) and Throttle Body, including position sensor and actuator", but I don't see how that could that be "giving wrong engine temperature"... Would you kindly confirm what ETS means in this context, please?

Recently (since this issue first showed) had a code scan and there was nothing showing there, but I'll try to verify the temperature as [per ECU.

Cheers
Engine temperature sensor
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Old Sep 29th, 2021, 15:16   #20
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Update and clue:

I've observed that it rarely stutters or cuts out when started and driven from cold.

However, if restarted when warm (or hot-ish), it may stall within the first few minutes.

Any ideas welcomed!

Also had (leaking!) fuel filter replaced. Possible slight improvement. Serious improvement to mpg...
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