Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > S80 '98-'06 / S60 '00-'09 / V70 & XC70 '00-'07 General
Register Members Cars Help Calendar Extra Stuff

Notices

S80 '98-'06 / S60 '00-'09 / V70 & XC70 '00-'07 General Forum for the P2-platform S60 / V70 / XC70 / S80 models

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

Metal Air Con pipes.?

Views : 1167

Replies : 20

Users Viewing This Thread :  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Jun 4th, 2021, 15:56   #1
woodways3
Member
 

Last Online: Mar 1st, 2024 15:00
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: London
Default Metal Air Con pipes.?

I found the bigger of the two metal pipes going into the car has been leaking ,no gas in it now.I have a good used pipe.The slim pipe is Alloy . Question can the pipe be accessed from the cover at the bottom of the windscreen ,or is it what looks like a nightmare from within the car ??????? If so im wondering maybe to cut the old pipe insitue and join the better pipe with maybe a compression joint .Anyone done similar ?? I know where the old is leaking.
woodways3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 5th, 2021, 19:31   #2
VOLVOBOY
Lazy Member
 

Last Online: Yesterday 21:31
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: HORLEY
Default

Hi.
If i understand you correctly by removing the cover plate on the bulkhead you will see the Expansion Valve. Both large and small aircon pipes are connected to this by a holding plate and O-rings. Very simple to remove both pipes and worth changing the Expansion Valve at the same time.
VOLVOBOY is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to VOLVOBOY For This Useful Post:
Old Jun 5th, 2021, 21:16   #3
woodways3
Member
 

Last Online: Mar 1st, 2024 15:00
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: London
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by VOLVOBOY View Post
Hi.
If i understand you correctly by removing the cover plate on the bulkhead you will see the Expansion Valve. Both large and small aircon pipes are connected to this by a holding plate and O-rings. Very simple to remove both pipes and worth changing the Expansion Valve at the same time.
Thats great news,for a moment i thought the only access was from within the car.I guess the skuttle cover clips will all break upon removal?
woodways3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 6th, 2021, 09:25   #4
VOLVOBOY
Lazy Member
 

Last Online: Yesterday 21:31
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: HORLEY
Default

No , if you treat them like nuts and go carefull then they will spin off without breaking anything.
VOLVOBOY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 6th, 2021, 09:53   #5
woodways3
Member
 

Last Online: Mar 1st, 2024 15:00
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: London
Default

[QUOTE=VOLVOBOY;2743042]No , if you treat them like nuts and go carefull the
n they will spin off without breaking anything.[/QUO

Hi i have no knowledge of the expansion valve ,does the two pipes fit into this unit? Is it easy to fit,and does it need any other gaskets ? Thanks for your help.
woodways3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 6th, 2021, 17:19   #6
VOLVOBOY
Lazy Member
 

Last Online: Yesterday 21:31
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: HORLEY
Default

Hi.
Expansion Valve is fixed by 2 cap head screws. A new part will come with new O-Rings. Two Rings seal under the valve against the Evaporator and two rings seat against your pipes. This job is simple but just a bit fiddly making sure not to drop anything.
There are two more O-Rings ( one on each pipe) that you need to inspect. They should be replaced usually but you can re-use if they are not deformed or hardened.
The main reason why these systems leak (apart from punctured condensers) is the ageing of the sealing rings so it makes sense to change what you can whilst you can.
As the system is open to air you should really replace the Receiver/Drier as a service item and put some lubricant in.
I don`t want to over blow any of this and put you off but the more you do now the better the system will be once you have it re-gassed. All the parts are simple bolt-on , bolt-off items.
VOLVOBOY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 7th, 2021, 18:38   #7
woodways3
Member
 

Last Online: Mar 1st, 2024 15:00
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: London
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by VOLVOBOY View Post
Hi.
Expansion Valve is fixed by 2 cap head screws. A new part will come with new O-Rings. Two Rings seal under the valve against the Evaporator and two rings seat against your pipes. This job is simple but just a bit fiddly making sure not to drop anything.
There are two more O-Rings ( one on each pipe) that you need to inspect. They should be replaced usually but you can re-use if they are not deformed or hardened.
The main reason why these systems leak (apart from punctured condensers) is the ageing of the sealing rings so it makes sense to change what you can whilst you can.
As the system is open to air you should really replace the Receiver/Drier as a service item and put some lubricant in.
I don`t want to over blow any of this and put you off but the more you do now the better the system will be once you have it re-gassed. All the parts are simple bolt-on , bolt-off items.
Very informative ,many thanks. Last question,is the drier receiver in the same area as the expansion valve ? Did you mean put oil inside this drier ? Sorry all new to me,air con.

Last edited by woodways3; Jun 7th, 2021 at 19:23.
woodways3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 7th, 2021, 20:41   #8
VOLVOBOY
Lazy Member
 

Last Online: Yesterday 21:31
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: HORLEY
Default

Hi again.
The Receiver/Drier is the small aluminium cylinder mounted next to the condenser on the offside. The best way to access it is to remove the front bumper and offside headlamp . This is more involved but really doesn`t take long to do. Plenty of good vids on you-tube.
The Drier has silica crystals inside that absorb any moisture in the A/C system. Moisture kills Compressors. The Drier has two pipes and a pressure sensor connected to the top. These parts are re-used on the new Drier and have O-Ring seals like the Expansion Valve.
The lubricant is PAG 46 oil and has a fluorescent dye. A replacement Drier would only need approx 30cc of oil which you can syringe inside. The trick is not to have the new Drier open to air for too long because the crystals will become saturated with moisture.- say no more than 30 mins in low humidity.
You could syringe a little extra PAG oil down the pipes you are replacing into the compressor - say 20cc to 30cc.
VOLVOBOY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 7th, 2021, 21:17   #9
woodways3
Member
 

Last Online: Mar 1st, 2024 15:00
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: London
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by VOLVOBOY View Post
Hi again.
The Receiver/Drier is the small aluminium cylinder mounted next to the condenser on the offside. The best way to access it is to remove the front bumper and offside headlamp . This is more involved but really doesn`t take long to do. Plenty of good vids on you-tube.
The Drier has silica crystals inside that absorb any moisture in the A/C system. Moisture kills Compressors. The Drier has two pipes and a pressure sensor connected to the top. These parts are re-used on the new Drier and have O-Ring seals like the Expansion Valve.
The lubricant is PAG 46 oil and has a fluorescent dye. A replacement Drier would only need approx 30cc of oil which you can syringe inside. The trick is not to have the new Drier open to air for too long because the crystals will become saturated with moisture.- say no more than 30 mins in low humidity.
You could syringe a little extra PAG oil down the pipes you are replacing into the compressor - say 20cc to 30cc.
Wow you really are an air con expert.Not sure if i can face doing that .especially as i have to do all the work outside .Im sure the bulkhead stuff will be taxing enough.But i understand the logik of doing all of the above.Many thanks.
woodways3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 8th, 2021, 14:11   #10
VOLVOBOY
Lazy Member
 

Last Online: Yesterday 21:31
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: HORLEY
Default

There. I knew it !!
I`ve talked you out of it.
The Drier is really more important than the Expansion Valve but if you don`t fancy it - fair enough. A good Air-con Co. will replace the Drier for you - at a cost of course.
When you take it to be re-gassed they must pressure test first and then vacuum down the system for at least 45 mins. Again you can ask them to put some lubricant in.
A good Co. will tell you how much Refrigerant has gone in. Volvo specify 1Kg . They will probably not get that amount in but should go as close as possible.
VOLVOBOY is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 03:20.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.