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Can't sell it, so gong to fix it! 6 speed geartronic.

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Old Feb 25th, 2017, 02:44   #11
oragex
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Originally Posted by Ritch View Post
I fixed my tf-80sc with a valve body from ebay.
Encouraging to read. So it's the same issue as with the 5 speed AW 55-50

It seems on both of these transmissions, the thing is to replace the Valve body (6 speed one) or solenoids (5 speed one) as soon as it starts behaving. Driving for longtime with a bad valve body will cause additional (i.e. non repairable) damage to the transmission.
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Old Feb 25th, 2017, 05:57   #12
myfirstv70
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Default Stupid question......

But is there not an oil additive you can put in to free the sticking valves? There seems to be an additive or potion for every problem going. That coupled with an oil change might be worth a punt?
HTH,
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Old Feb 25th, 2017, 06:52   #13
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Our V70 D5 was changing heavy. Changed the valve block and back to normal now. 180K on the clock.
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Old Feb 25th, 2017, 09:31   #14
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But is there not an oil additive you can put in to free the sticking valves? There seems to be an additive or potion for every problem going. That coupled with an oil change might be worth a punt?
HTH,
Nobby
I changed the oil once and it made a small improvement but the car was still at danger of spewing internals all over the road with how fierce some of the changes felt.

As I bought the car at auction way below market value I decided to "do it once and do it right." Not least because the oil isn't cheap and neither is my time.

I was also fairly convinced the sticky solenoids were my problem (no issue until warm) and that the mechanicals of the box were good.

So one valve body, a 20 ltr drum of 3309 from Opie oils, some sealant, a Vida/Dice set and a day on the driveway drinking brews made mine all good again. 8k miles and counting now.

If you do this job you will realise why nailing it the first time is the way to go, you don't want to be doing it over and over again in an attempt to save a few quid.

Biggest pita is cleaning the mating face on the gearbox side as access is limited to say the least.
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Old Feb 26th, 2017, 14:11   #15
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Originally Posted by myfirstv70 View Post
But is there not an oil additive you can put in to free the sticking valves? There seems to be an additive or potion for every problem going. That coupled with an oil change might be worth a punt?
HTH,
Nobby
As I said you want to try clean oil first for a few hundred miles.
The only additive I have heard others recommend after use is the one in the link.
Personally I would try it before a rebuild.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lucas-Oil-1.../dp/B000ARTZPO
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Old Mar 1st, 2017, 00:03   #16
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I tried the Lucas oil remedy and I'll be honest, it made it worse!!!

But for me that's by the by now. I've sold it. Had a very nice chap see it on gumtree, come to look at it Sunday, and took it away there and then.

Thank you very much for all your help and assistance with this and the miriad of other problems I've thrown at you, it's extremely appreciated.

Good luck to you all

Wayne!!!
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Old Mar 1st, 2017, 06:18   #17
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Originally Posted by Squealey View Post
I tried the Lucas oil remedy and I'll be honest, it made it worse!!!

But for me that's by the by now. I've sold it. Had a very nice chap see it on gumtree, come to look at it Sunday, and took it away there and then.

Thank you very much for all your help and assistance with this and the miriad of other problems I've thrown at you, it's extremely appreciated.

Good luck to you all

Wayne!!!
One lucas oil is to stop slipping and one is a conditioner I think, which one did you use?
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Old Mar 1st, 2017, 06:24   #18
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Originally Posted by luggsey View Post
One lucas oil is to stop slipping and one is a conditioner I think, which one did you use?
I used the one to stop slippage. I got it off eBay and it was saying how it was a secret product that will yield instant results. All it did with mine was make it start slipping between 4&5 and it wouldn't then drop into neutral when at idle on D or R, so you was constantly having to hold it hard on the brakes. (I realise autos always have a bit of creep at idle, but this was straining the engine to keep running)

Nope, can't recommend that stuff, £20 wasted for me

Cheers

Wayne
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Old Mar 1st, 2017, 06:43   #19
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Originally Posted by Squealey View Post
I used the one to stop slippage. I got it off eBay and it was saying how it was a secret product that will yield instant results. All it did with mine was make it start slipping between 4&5 and it wouldn't then drop into neutral when at idle on D or R, so you was constantly having to hold it hard on the brakes. (I realise autos always have a bit of creep at idle, but this was straining the engine to keep running)

Nope, can't recommend that stuff, £20 wasted for me

Cheers

Wayne
If I read correctly your box was not slipping but banging into gear?
Maybe adding anti slip oil was a bad idea....?
I think the thread I read had the poster use the conditioner oil and fresh gearbox oil.
I don't have believe any additive can be as good as a full oil change though.
This gearbox is fitted in many cars by the way!
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Old Mar 9th, 2017, 13:38   #20
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Have a look here this will give details of what causes harsh changes and flaring on the A/W 6 speed gearboxes and what likely needs to be done to remedy them
http://www.sonnax.com/articles/207-aw-6-speed-fwd

You may get away with changing the oil but it's probably too late. Without the means to check the pressures and adjust the valve body to accomodate the wear a replacement valve body is likely to be the best way forward

Russ
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