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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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1.9 diesel tuning optionsViews : 15085 Replies : 46Users Viewing This Thread : |
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May 14th, 2011, 22:22 | #41 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Dec 29th, 2013 12:08
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Berkhamsted
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Thanks mate, thats awesome news, my Dturbo gets about 52 mpg mixed, so if I can get nearer 60 mixed that would be fab, and its not like yours is standard lol
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May 14th, 2011, 22:53 | #42 |
spanner
Last Online: Apr 27th, 2019 17:39
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Kilmaurs
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I am driving pretty gently on that 56 but i could be slower. So I guess somewhere in the 50's is what to expect for crusing, and 40's for rally stages
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May 14th, 2011, 22:57 | #43 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Dec 29th, 2013 12:08
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Berkhamsted
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Thats cool, yeah I don't really bother going above 60 on the bypass on the way to work, don't see the point of going above 60 on the motorway either, would only be rushing towards the next traffic jam/accident/road works lol
Will be interested to compare when I get my V40 in a few months time to see the differnce in the MPG between stock and tuned |
Feb 9th, 2012, 19:31 | #44 | |
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Last Online: Feb 15th, 2012 08:23
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: london
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Quote:
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Feb 9th, 2012, 21:15 | #45 |
Premier Member
Last Online: May 2nd, 2018 08:14
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: DownSouth
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One tuning mod that many taxy owners do that is simpler and cheaper than the advanced turbo options, is to fit a switch to short out the resistor that controls the mixture setting when the engine is cold. That in effect changes the car to a type of old fashion manual choke, but it does save fuel if you do a lot of short trips.
Not sure what the emission control test for the MOT is like, but I would be concerned over more advanced tuning causing a problem. I am in Germany so even a basic manual choke job has to be removed before the TUV inspection. Oddly enough if you are not concerned about your heating bill, pre heating the cars engine is not only good for it but saves fuel and you can get kits to fit to the engine if required. At the end of the day you get what you pay for and more power from a new turbo means more engine wear. Last edited by skyship007; Feb 9th, 2012 at 21:28. |
Mar 28th, 2012, 16:09 | #46 |
moshmobile driver
Last Online: Apr 22nd, 2023 16:07
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Warrington
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I've just found this thread again and spent the time reading through it. As always, I'm absolutely amazed not only by how much depth of knowledge there is available on here, but also the fact that someone can whack their V40 diesel up to 168bhp AND improve fuel economy by 20%. Although it's clear graemedench has spent a lot of cash to get that improvement!
I did consider a Kingquick box when I bought the car, but then I worked out that a 20% improvement in mpg would only save me £150 a year on fuel, so it's not exactly worth spending £350 on the box for that reason alone. I'm intrigued by the simultaneous power increases, although I must say 115bhp ain't no slouch, but as I normally drive under the line, a boost in torque is clearly beneficial to the way I drive, and would dissuade me even further from ragging the turbo around town. However, I motorway cruise at a shade under 3000rpm but I suppose a box would reduce motorway economy? Or have I misread that? I'm not daft enough to spend silly money, nor to get my hands that dirty, but are there any quick wins to be learned from all this? Kingquick box and have a bit of a play with the tweaks maybe? (I must admit that the clearest way forward is to buy an RX7 as soon as possible. Always wanted one but only ever got as far as Gran Turismo.)
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Jul 28th, 2021, 00:14 | #47 |
New Member
Last Online: Dec 6th, 2022 11:50
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Rijeka
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Hi there
Just recently got my hands on a ****box D419T3 which is a daily. Got me real excited before hand making a bit less torque than D525T2 and making the same torque at 1300 rpm as 1.9tdi 66kW, as at 1350 rpm it should have around +200Nm and full 265Nm from 1700 or 1900rpm (I forgot this bit). But once the car was bought, I found out that the torque curve from Renault is far off from the one in Volvo (or something is pretty much clogged up). The car pulls nicely from 1700rpms but tends to run poorly below 1400 (to the point my mother continuosly stalling the engine when starting, she's used to golf mk3 1.9tdi and V70 2.5d). My question is what can I do to improve torque from 1100-1700 rpm as it's much more suited for application and what could potentially be bad with it for not being torquey before 1700? My guess is that the car is fully stock at this point (not considering the rust heaps on the car and all the things not yet working correctly like power mirrors, windshield washers etc.) and I would like to keep it as stock as possible (with the mentioned things running normally)... somehow I got to an idea in making a voltage splitter for MAF and offsetting it by -.1 to -.3V but I'm only interested in bottom end torque and don't want to blow the turbine with "welding the wastegate" and top end power is really not an interest of mine (I like D13K series and would like to have torque curve like D13K500TC on a car, just with 10x less torque 😅 and having 200Nm from 1050-1150rpm) and accompanying fuel efficiency. Sorry for the long post and I do apologise by all the stupidity of my question 😅😂😂 |
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