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Can't sell it, so gong to fix it! 6 speed geartronic.

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Old May 11th, 2017, 00:19   #21
BigRussT4
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Just fitted a new valve body to mine due to harsh shifting and occasional flaring on taking up drive when hot.

Changes beautifully now

Just as a note, there is a gasket available for the valve body cover, does away with messing about with sealant. Costs approx £10

Russ
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Old May 11th, 2017, 00:43   #22
Georgeandkira
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AA+ SUPER CONGRATS. You've kicked any need for Viagra 15 years down the road...and your car is fixed.

Can you provide the parts source(s) and part numbers involved?
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Old May 11th, 2017, 08:16   #23
yoda960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRussT4 View Post
Just fitted a new valve body to mine due to harsh shifting and occasional flaring on taking up drive when hot.

Changes beautifully now

Just as a note, there is a gasket available for the valve body cover, does away with messing about with sealant. Costs approx £10

Russ
Hi Russ, well done Did you do this yourself? What was the cost of the valve body? What year and model do you own?
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Old May 11th, 2017, 12:14   #24
BigRussT4
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Thanks, yes I fitted it myself. the cost of the Valve body was £459.99 and the gasket was £8.99 both from the one stop gearbox shop on E-bay.

Took a day and a half including the flush and adaptions, a bit awkward due to the limited room available, especially unclipping the wiring to the solenoids but otherwise everything was pretty straightforward. Wouldn't want to do another one in a hurry though.

Mine is a 2007 model S60.

Russ
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Old Jul 6th, 2021, 13:05   #25
ampy
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I changed the oil once and it made a small improvement but the car was still at danger of spewing internals all over the road with how fierce some of the changes felt.

As I bought the car at auction way below market value I decided to "do it once and do it right." Not least because the oil isn't cheap and neither is my time.

I was also fairly convinced the sticky solenoids were my problem (no issue until warm) and that the mechanicals of the box were good.

So one valve body, a 20 ltr drum of 3309 from Opie oils, some sealant, a Vida/Dice set and a day on the driveway drinking brews made mine all good again. 8k miles and counting now.

If you do this job you will realise why nailing it the first time is the way to go, you don't want to be doing it over and over again in an attempt to save a few quid.

Biggest pita is cleaning the mating face on the gearbox side as access is limited to say the least.
Hi, Did you have to drop the subframe to remove the gearbox sump cover or did it wiggle out? Thanks.
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Old Jul 6th, 2021, 13:09   #26
ampy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRussT4 View Post
Just fitted a new valve body to mine due to harsh shifting and occasional flaring on taking up drive when hot.

Changes beautifully now

Just as a note, there is a gasket available for the valve body cover, does away with messing about with sealant. Costs approx £10

Russ
Can this job be done without dropping the subframe for access? Thanks.
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Old Jul 6th, 2021, 17:09   #27
Ripmax
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Hi Ampy,

Here's a link to a guide for accessing the valve body on the older AW55 box. The process of shifting everything out of the way for access is most likely the same, if not similar.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...arbox+solenoid
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Old Jul 6th, 2021, 23:48   #28
ampy
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Originally Posted by Ripmax View Post
Hi Ampy,

Here's a link to a guide for accessing the valve body on the older AW55 box. The process of shifting everything out of the way for access is most likely the same, if not similar.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...arbox+solenoid
Thanks for the link. It is a shame the original source link to a PDF for an XC70 is no longer working as the car I need to look at is an XC70.
I think the XC90 has more room but the XC70 does not seem to have oil cooler pipes connected to the cover.
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Old Jul 31st, 2021, 22:40   #29
ampy
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Can this job be done without dropping the subframe for access? Thanks.
I recently fitted a new gearbox sump to my Volvo XC70. MY 2011 with 6 speed Aisin TF80 SC auto gearbox. (The sump is at the front of the gearbox) I did NOT have to drop the subframe nor did I have to jack the engine up.
There is a small alloy block where two pipes branch off to the oil cooler. I did need to remove that, (two bolts) and some effort in removing the sump bolts but it wiggled out easy enough.
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