How Do I remove A/C Compressor from V70 D5?

[Marmitespreader]

Should be viewable now sorry.

[Roy V70 850]

I did a write up in Oct on replacing the A/C pulley and clutch. The final video shows the engine running with the new pulley. You can also see towards the end that the clutch engages for around 6 secs. It's actually a few minutes before it engages again. If your clutch is not pulling in at all, and it's not the coil, then it does look like it requires a re-shim.

https://youtu.be/_r7WmPRtL9c

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V70 D5 2.4 163bhp 155k

[Simmy]

Originally Posted by Roy V70 850

I did a write up in Oct on replacing the A/C pulley and clutch. The final video shows the engine running with the new pulley. You can also see towards the end that the clutch engages for around 6 secs. It's actually a few minutes before it engages again. If your clutch is not pulling in at all, and it's not the coil, then it does look like it requires a re-shim.

https://youtu.be/_r7WmPRtL9c

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V70 D5 2.4 163bhp 155k

did you replace the ac clutch from the top or did you remove th arch liner for access iv tried from the top but my popeye fore arms stop me reaching things

[rik007]

Have tested an 12v direct supply to the compressor feed wire. The clutch pulls in and closes the gap. Which for info is just a tad wider than a credit card.

So I'd presume the coil is OK and the compressor may well be in good shape should a signal be getting to it to engage.

When I test the feed wire from the car to the small plastic push connector it gives about 13volts or so every 10 seconds. I have no idea if that is correct or not? I would assume that it should have a fairly constant live feed when running?

Oddly when the push fit connector which near the compressor, about a 6" tail leading wire, the clutch never flickers or engages. The connection seems pretty firm and I've even put a jump wire between the two ends of the connector.

Alas still no clutch engaging. Perhaps the very short pluse of the 13volts is not long enough to create a magnetic field to allow the clutch to be drawn in with?

Anyway .... the investigation continues... but at least some progress...

Rich

[Roy V70 850]

Originally Posted by rik007

Have tested an 12v direct supply to the compressor feed wire. The clutch pulls in and closes the gap. Which for info is just a tad wider than a credit card.

So I'd presume the coil is OK and the compressor may well be in good shape should a signal be getting to it to engage.

When I test the feed wire from the car to the small plastic push connector it gives about 13volts or so every 10 seconds. I have no idea if that is correct or not? I would assume that it should have a fairly constant live feed when running?

Oddly when the push fit connector which near the compressor, about a 6" tail leading wire, the clutch never flickers or engages. The connection seems pretty firm and I've even put a jump wire between the two ends of the connector.

Alas still no clutch engaging. Perhaps the very short pluse of the 13volts is not long enough to create a magnetic field to allow the clutch to be drawn in with?

Anyway .... the investigation continues... but at least some progress...

Rich

It's obvious now that the coil is ok.

Is the pulse shorter than 1 sec or longer?. I would expect 0.5s would be enough to see the clutch trying to be pulled in.

The voltage is probably being applied every 10secs because the sensors are not seeing any signs cooling, so it keeps trying.

I take it that you applied the 12V whilst the engine was stationary, maybe the force is different when rotating. It may be worth checking the current. It should be about 3A.

On my engine, it only requires the compressor to work for 6 secs in every 30 secs and this has kept the car nice and cool in this 30+ deg heatwave we've been having.

Originally Posted by Simmy

did you replace the ac clutch from the top or did you remove th arch liner for access iv tried from the top but my popeye fore arms stop me reaching things

I didn't remove the clutch in situ because I replaced the whole pulley. This involved draining the cooling system, unbolting the steering compressor and moving out of the way, removing top and bottom hose, removing the alternator and the bolts on the compressor so that it can be angled to give enough space to work on. Not hard to do but time consuming.
However, when I did re-install everything I could get my hands down enough to unbolt the clutch and pull it off by hand. The gap was 0.6, which was a bit wide, but I didn't have the correct shims at the time. I did buy some more shims weeks later, but it was working ok and has been for 10 months, so I never bothered.

Accessing the clutch via the wheel arch on my car wasn't an option because it faces metal, its even harder to get to.
However, I've seen utube videos on other D5's which must have a slightly different arrangement where this can be done.

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2004 V70 D5 2.4 163bhp 155k

[rik007]

Right, having tested the relay on the bench all seemed well.

But on they way back from work called at the breakers near by and grabbed a handful of relays that looked very similar.

All of them had the same code on them as the original, so all good to be used.

Put one of them in ....HEY PRESTO! Clutch enagaged and satyed happily spinnin!

RESULT!!

Now to get it gassed up at the weekend.

So, the upshot is testing a relay doesn't seem to guarantee its intended performance on the car. Hence perhaps why I was seeing the 13v pulse signal as the relay made then failed, not allowing enough time for the coil on the pump to engage. I rather assume now there is a continual +ve feed as suggested in previous helpful comments.

I haven't tested for a continual live feed as it was late and being rather pooped from work.

Anyway all good and thanks for the support All once again.

Rich