Electrical: In Tank Fuel Pump Electrical Sender Repair??

[SnineT]

It's petrol mate don't mess with it, get one out of a scrapper or get one from a motor factors, one spark regardless how careful you are and KERPOW!

[Big 240]

Originally Posted by SnineT

It's petrol mate don't mess with it, get one out of a scrapper or get one from a motor factors, one spark regardless how careful you are and KERPOW!

It's all good chap. Routing the cable through the third pipe is safe. I am using some silicon tube I have left over to sleeve the wire, then pushing that through the pipe. There's zero danger of sparking. If you look at the pic of the older style unit it's a similar idea, but they are going through a metal grommet type thing.

[SnineT]

Originally Posted by Big 240

It's all good chap. Routing the cable through the third pipe is safe. I am using some silicon tube I have left over to sleeve the wire, then pushing that through the pipe. There's zero danger of sparking. If you look at the pic of the older style unit it's a similar idea, but they are going through a metal grommet type thing.

Even though I can tell you're a master of your own destiny I still wouldn't mess about with it myself, good luck if you do and just be double sure nothing is able to touch or snag.

[Big 240]

I will of course be purchasing a replacement pump when funds allow, but for now this fix has worked and will allow me to use the car haha.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Big 240

I will of course be purchasing a replacement pump when funds allow, but for now this fix has worked and will allow me to use the car haha.

Have you already done this and it worked? If so well done.

Post some pictures and words in case the repair is useful to someone else please.

Alan

[Juular]

I did a similar job on mine, but instead of using the spare pipe hole, I drilled out the existing connector, soldered new wires in, then used hot glue to 'pot' the wires in place.





This worked perfectly until the level float arm fell off a few months later and I replaced the whole unit.

It will be safe enough. Even if it sparked inside the tank nothing whatsoever would happen, as the fuel to air mixture is far too rich to ignite.

[Big 240]

Originally Posted by Juular

I did a similar job on mine, but instead of using the spare pipe hole, I drilled out the existing connector, soldered new wires in, then used hot glue to 'pot' the wires in place.



This worked perfectly until the level float arm fell off a few months later and I replaced the whole unit.

It will be safe enough. Even if it sparked inside the tank nothing whatsoever would happen, as the fuel to air mixture is far too rich to ignite.

Great fix chap!

My tangs were all oxidised/rotten almost flat so there wasn't anything to connect to. I do enjoy a free fix

[Big 240]

Originally Posted by Othen

Have you already done this and it worked? If so well done.

Post some pictures and words in case the repair is useful to someone else please.

Alan

So as stated I have done the fix and it works. It's not the prettiest of fixes as the corrosion on the top part is pretty bad. I will clean this up before I refit, however as a temp solution it is perfect for the job.

I ended up cutting the spare pipe down to about 5mm proud, and filed/deburred the edges so it was smooth. I fed the black and the grey wire down the tube and soldered these (and sleeved them) to the corresponding wires from the pump and the level sender (black to black and grey to the thin blue wire from level sender). I used some heat shrink where the wire goes through, and comes out underneath along with some araldite to hold the wires in place etc.

I cut out the old plastic part that held the connector on top and used the hole that was left as the earth point. I used a new nylock nut and bolt.

I will be replacing with a new unit once funds permit.

[Juular]

That looks like an elegant and well thought out fix. That'll last ages.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Big 240

So as stated I have done the fix and it works. It's not the prettiest of fixes as the corrosion on the top part is pretty bad. I will clean this up before I refit, however as a temp solution it is perfect for the job.

I ended up cutting the spare pipe down to about 5mm proud, and filed/deburred the edges so it was smooth. I fed the black and the grey wire down the tube and soldered these (and sleeved them) to the corresponding wires from the pump and the level sender (black to black and grey to the thin blue wire from level sender). I used some heat shrink where the wire goes through, and comes out underneath along with some araldite to hold the wires in place etc.

I cut out the old plastic part that held the connector on top and used the hole that was left as the earth point. I used a new nylock nut and bolt.

I will be replacing with a new unit once funds permit.

Excellent, well done - and that is a really good 'how to' post should anyone else need it.

Why would you waste money on a replacement if it works? It looks to me like it will last the life of the motor car.

Alan