Timing belt renewal-oil seals too??

[Porkchop]

Hi there,

I'm finally in a position to replace the timing belt on my 1984 Estate with the B23 engine and just wanted a couple of pointers regarding oil seal replacement. I've got quite a few other bibs and bobs to replace whilst the old girl is off the road (fan belts hoses etc) and thought it was timely to replace the front oil seals as there's quite a bit of oil leaking around the timing belt cover. I live in Oz so tracking down the correct seals is taking a while to accomplish. I've been boning up on Mike Brace's excellent how-to on replacing the belt but there is scant info knocking around on how to do the seals. I guess what I'm after is any insight into pitfalls, sequence of work etc...

thanks!

[classicswede]

I used the hooked end of a scriber to pull the old seals out. To press the new seals in lightly coat them in clean oil to help them slide on and use a socket to press them in.

[Porkchop]

That sounds like a good way to go, I can remember having to butcher seals in the past to get them out having never owned a puller, any other tips regarding the whole process? much appreciated, Ian

[Clifford Pope]

If the camshaft seal has worn a slight groove on the shaft then position the new seal in a slightly different position.
Or else push the old seal further along and put the new seal in front.

[Bugjam1999]

I just rebuilt (well, extensively serviced is a better term really) the replacement engine I put in my car and replaced the front three seals (camshaft, auxiliary shaft and crankshaft). I bought a set of seal picks to get them out which were invaluable, I don't think I could have done it without them -these ones but I'm sure you can find similar:

http://www.raygrahams.com/products/1...FWf4wgodOUYAEQ

Clean up the whole area in front of the seal to start with using some sort of spray cleaner- I used brake and clutch cleaner but whatever works- getting the area clean means you're not pulling the seal out against any extra resistance and there's less chance of any debris ending up in the engine or on your new seal. Using the picks is pretty easy, start in one spot and try and jab into the seal and then pull, then try another spot and work all the way around to ease it out.

Replacement is also fairly easy, lube the seating area with fresh oil and have the seal fully submerged in new oil to start (I used a takeaway container). Push the seal home square using a socket if you can find one that fits, or your fingers- I used my fingers as I couldn't find a socket with a big enough hole in the middle to clear the camshaft. Have something plastic to help you push the seal in the final bit and to help with getting it totally seated and square- I found a bicycle tyre lever worked for this as it was easy to hold with oily hands, hard enough plastic and had a relatively thin but not sharp end. The other thing to have is some way of measuring the depth you have pushed the seal back all the way around to ensure it is square- I used the depth measuring end of a pair of vernier callipers, so once the seal was in I checked the depth all the way around and where it wasn't square I pushed it in slightly further to square it up using the tyre lever.

One thing to note is that the seal is a tight fit in the space (of course) and when you first push it in it's a tight fit with a film of oil on it, meaning it can be relatively easily moved about. The longer you leave it, the more the pressure of the seal against its seating will push out the film of oil meaning that instead of it moving relatively easily it gets harder to move about. Think of it a bit like fixing something with epoxy glue - don't worry it's not like you have moments, there's plenty of time, but don't go and have a cup of tea half way through

[Porkchop]

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

If the camshaft seal has worn a slight groove on the shaft then position the new seal in a slightly different position.
Or else push the old seal further along and put the new seal in front.

That's a very good point Clifford, the old girl has only done moderate km's for her 30 years, around the 250,000 mark, but that doesn't mean there won't potentially be some wear!

[Porkchop]

Originally Posted by Bugjam1999

Clean up the whole area in front of the seal to start with using some sort of spray cleaner- I used brake and clutch cleaner but whatever works- getting the area clean means you're not pulling the seal out against any extra resistance and there's less chance of any debris ending up in the engine or on your new seal. Using the picks is pretty easy, start in one spot and try and jab into the seal and then pull, then try another spot and work all the way around to ease it out.

Replacement is also fairly easy, lube the seating area with fresh oil and have the seal fully submerged in new oil to start (I used a takeaway container). Push the seal home square using a socket if you can find one that fits, or your fingers- I used my fingers as I couldn't find a socket with a big enough hole in the middle to clear the camshaft. Have something plastic to help you push the seal in the final bit and to help with getting it totally seated and square- I found a bicycle tyre lever worked for this as it was easy to hold with oily hands, hard enough plastic and had a relatively thin but not sharp end. The other thing to have is some way of measuring the depth you have pushed the seal back all the way around to ensure it is square- I used the depth measuring end of a pair of vernier callipers, so once the seal was in I checked the depth all the way around and where it wasn't square I pushed it in slightly further to square it up using the tyre lever.

Thanks for the many tips and pointers, it's certainly been a good many years since I replaced one of these, I might be able to "jury-rig" a pick or two as I've got good access to metal-working facilities here at work (tight-arse I know!) The crankshaft seal has got a pretty decent diameter (68mm o.d. from memory) so I think that I might match up some heavy-walled pipe cut off square to aid pressing it in as I don't have a socket of anything like that diameter! I guess the other thing is the alignment of the various pulleys once they're pulled off to replace the seals, do they have a key-way? Any tips on what you did in regard to removal/replacement of the three pulleys?

much obliged, Ian

[Spasibo]

need to DM but short of quite a few messages before being eligible to do that.
Apologies for the SPAM - trying to reach the limit of the required 30 msgs. Pls blame not only me. It is a matter of safety -> a bit urgent.