B200F Head Gasket Change ... couple of querie ..

[Stephen Edwin]

I'm just wondering a few things before I do this B200F head gasket change. (Yes, I know I need to take the cambelt off. But I still have the special tool. )

1. What is the likelihood of having to get the head skimmed? Someone has told me that is "usually" necessary with Volvo 200, 240, 244, 245 engines.

2. Is a steel rule sufficient to check the head surface for flatness?

3. If it needs a skim, is that usually expensive, and is it difficult to find a suitable engineering shop to do it?

4. Is it best or easiest to detach the manifolds from the head? Or to detach the exhaust from that manifold and detach fuel supply gear from the inlet manifold?

5. Anything else I should know before starting the head gasket change job?

It's a long time since I did this, and I've only done it on push rod and carburetor type engines.

[wooble]

If the engine hasn't overheated, there's a good chance the head won't need to be skimmed. if it has, than it probably will. a steel rule (turned edge on) will do in a pinch, but I'd personally feel happier with a proper engineer's straight-edge.

Truthfully, I've stuck back on heads before that only showed a very very mild warp (I'm talking showing just a sliver of light under the straight edge), as the head bolts will pull it back straight when properly torqued, and never had one come back. if it has any serious degree of warpage though, it'll need to be either milled flat (£50-100 depending where you go, any decent engineering shop will be able to accomplish this), or just find a replacement cylinder head on here.

Personally I would detach the manifolds from the head. Your only worry here is the exhaust manifold nuts/studs - they will be rusty, degraded and stuck. at a minimum I'd give the threads a good clean and soak them in a good penetrating oil (not WD40!) for 24 hours before attempting to free them off. There's a not-insignificant chance that one of more may be damaged in the process of removing them, but it's not fatal - the studs can be renewed if they're in bad shape.

Other things, hmmm - while you're in there check the valve clearances - they're usually fine but if any are out of whack better to know. check the rubber hoses to the heater and replace them if necessary while you've got the the top of the engine apart - access is much easier with the intake manifold off. Again, give the flame trap / PCV system a good cleaning while you're in the area if it hasn't been done recently. When removing/replacing the head, be careful with the alignment dowels - they're easy to drop/lose/misplace, and a pain to replace, as well as causing havoc if one slips out of place during refitting and you don't notice. Check the head for corrosion damage on the face where coolant passes though - that IS something redblocks do fairly regularly and the head can be junk if the corrosion is bad enough.

[Stephen Edwin]

Wooble that sounds clear and comprehensive, thank you. I am very grateful. Since my breakdown I am less than sure of myself so I try to get my ducks lined up before I do anything, and I am very grateful for clearly spoken experienced advice. Thank you.

Oh yes re WD40, that's useful but not an actual penetrating oil. I'll use Plus Gas I reckon.

The engine overheated last autumn when a heater hose leaked, but that was brief. I spotted the temperature gauge and stopped driving. It has not overheated recently in relation to my current concerns. (When my old Triumph 2000 blew a head gasket in the 1970s, the overheating sounded like a very sick cow .... )

I'll ask at my local tool store about an engineer's straight edge.

When I eventually get the head off, if i doubt I'll post a pic or two.

One small comfort. I changed the heater hoses last autumn when one of those sprang a leak. Yes access was er, fun. I was laid flat across the engine bay with my feet stuck out in to space! My proper hose clip tool was a godsend compared to trying locate a screwdriver on to the clips.

And I did some cleaning and some replacement of the PCV bits at that time. Yes, I'll clean further while things are apart.

[classicswede]

I would always recommend having the head re surfaced every time it is removed. For £20-50 it is worth it to be sure that it seals properly and save wasting a head set when it does not last.

[B10B]

I very recently had the head off my B230ET because of a broken exhaust stud.
Because of it being turbo and as i already had a stud gone i took off everything bolted to the head. Remember you will need everything off should it need machine work.
My engine is 25 years old and i couldn't tell you if it had overheated in that time or not. The head gasket came off in one piece, and the machinist who drilled out the stud also checked it for warp, he said skimming should only be done if the head is out of tolerance and many just skim because of the extra ££ and time to PROPERLY check it.
It didn't need skimming so you might find yours the same, however do get it checked and if you lose an exhaust stud your machinist can sort it anyway.
Set aside £100 for any work and your golden.

[Stephen Edwin]

Thank you both of you, classicswede and B10B. I can see both lines of thought whether to skim always or not. And I'm remembering your advice also thanks wooble.

Let's see what else is found ...

Anyway yes, I certainly need to set some money aside. I am confident the car is fundamentally sound so it is worth spending some money on.

[stephend]

I can see you're into the pre-work worry phase: I know that phase well! The upside is that the more you think it through in advance, the better job you'll make of it when you start.

[Stephen Edwin]

Well, I'm getting worried now :

Cambelt kit : £12.48
Follower tensioner pully : £40.08
Cam cover gasket : £17.76
Head Gasket : £50.40
Head bolts : £9.36 each ... need 10 so £93.60

All less 10% ..

And then head skimming, and oh yes manifold gaskets tha I forgot to get prices for and whatever else I find ....

Fix the car, sell the car if that is possible, scrap the car??

I'm basically not at all sure what to do ..... it's only a car and I rarely use it ....

[classicswede]

Volvo cam belt is about £10 (trade)
You then need a full head set £40-45

the tensioner should be good for a million miles or so
Head bolts can be reused a fair few times

[Stephen Edwin]

Yes with luck just the cam belt and head gasket £56.90 after discount is no problem .... and manifold gaskets? But if I get it all open and find I need more .... I'm just trying to be realistic .....

Put this another way. Is the cam cover gasket re-usable for ever? And what actually happens if I re-use the head bolts and they are really due for replacement? And if the head is not skimmed?

P.S. When you say FULL head set, the helpful dealer I have always used saw only the head gasket on his list of stuff, not any "set". What is in the set and do you have a part number please?