Rear suspension plus weight equals better...

[amazon69]

I've got a couple of bags of sharp sand in the boot at the minute because I'm supposed to be doing a bit of rendering. Probably 50 kg, maybe less. I might not get round to the rendering however as the car drives SO much better with the weight. I would like the car to drive like that without the weight penalty however. I've got Dai's adjustable shocks in the back with progressive springs. Car is 40mm lower than standard. Probably more now with the weight. However I adjust the shocks without the weight I cannot get the car to settle and feel planted and secure like it does with the weight in there. Shocks set to about 1/3rd up from the softest setting. Is the issue here the springs (from Amazon cars a good few years ago..springs still in good shape but I don't know what they are rated at) or the shocks? I cannot measure the spring rating as far as I know...Cheers,

Dave

[davidw6092]

I found the same when using an amazon estate for rally servicing.Unloaded it was a bit of a camel handling wise,but loaded to the gunnels with service parts and tool kits it was beautiful!Very driftable and predictable,,a real joy!

[Vintagewrench]

Noticed this in the past while driving 122s and 220 cars daily year round in New England.

Every winter while driving a 122s two-door w/four studded snow tires I would put 2-3 concrete blocks (about 100 lbs.) in the trunk in the fall for increased traction needed for all of the hills and mountains we have here. Just as you mentioned the ride was always better.

220s which weigh more did not need any extra weight added, but were harder to warm up inside when it was really cold due to the larger interior compartment.

If the cars had sagged springs due high mileage or were lowered about 2-inches or so, once the snow got to be over about 4-inches deep the front crossmember and the bottom of the car started plowing thru the snow and it became difficult to go anywhere.

I do notice now with our two Labrador retrievers in the back (120 lbs) of the 220 the ride does change for the better.

[amazon69]

I wonder if it's something to do with the damper return. The shocks are great, but I don't understand how the bounce and rebound adjust works really. They can't be adjusted seperately, so if I 'turn them up'..make them stiffer..the return is stiffer too. Ideally I think the car needs a soft bounce with a tighter rebound. I may well be completely off though, and it could be the springs.

[v8250]

Originally Posted by amazon69

Ideally I think the car needs a soft bounce with a tighter rebound. I may well be completely off though, and it could be the springs.

This. Near all rwd live axle cars need softer rear ends, but, with good axle location. Frequently, upgraded components are a compromise between firmer ride/lower ride height and road holding...however this invariably leads to unwanted rear end skipping where the spring rates are too firm, especially when lowered as this reduces spring travel length. Progressive springs with balanced/adjustable dampers are the best option combined with firmer front end settings. It's also often the case that a good amount of setting testing is req'd before best all round set up is found.

I mentioned axle location above because if the axle is poorly located [poor component bushing, poor panhard rod bushing and/or arm length, poor trailing arm bushing/weak trailing arm] the damper/spring setup will not be in fixed location.

The trick with the above is to use tried and tested [proven] combined kits/components. Sometimes I've had to calc-out settings myself to find best component setup and have springs made for individual applications. Simon at Brookhouse has a progessive 20mm drop spring kit with suitable KYB dampers. I'm going to buy this set soon as a 20mm drop is sensible lowering without making a car too firm/crashy.

Rgds
Andrew

[amazon69]

Thanks. Maths would be the answer, but it's impossible to calculate when the spring rates are not divulged. Shouldn't be too hard to corner weigh the car and go from there, but none of the springs I've seen say what their rates are.

[tdz840]

Try this, just plug the numbers in here. http://www.hypercoils.com/spring-rate-calculator/

[v8250]

Originally Posted by tdz840

Try this, just plug the numbers in here. http://www.hypercoils.com/spring-rate-calculator/

that's a great website for pukka calcs

[classicswede]

If you have ride problems then that could be down to springs or shocks but if its just a case the car feels a lot better handling and grip wise that is down to the improved balance.
50kg is teh boot would bring you closer to 50/50 weight distribution and will also be putting more pressure down on the rear tyres resulting in inproved rear end grip and a more even balance front to rear

[amazon69]

That makes sense, but doesn't explain how the rear itself responds better to bump and rebound. It must be possible to get the bump/rebound response better with no weight in the back, maybe through different springs and/or possibly dampers, not sure.