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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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Oh 'eck 'Tank' is not at all well.......Views : 11065 Replies : 150Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jan 5th, 2011, 11:55 | #121 |
Ovlovnut
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Czech240. Yep, I think I follow your instructions, wether I can put them into practice is another matter...........
HJ thanks, my Paynes must be a bit different to yours as mine has no real info on rear bearings or 1/2 shafts On the subject of pullers, I'm sure I've seen them with inner & outer fittings. As in you just swivel the puller bits one end of each being 'inner' & t'other being 'outer', if that makes sense? Need to get to the shop & see what I can find, but as swmbo is out at work I'm sort of grounded. In the UK I had an Arkwrights type store within 3 mins bimble & what he didn't have wasn't worth having. Here it's a 10 min drive one way for an average store or 20 the other way for a good store. lol
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Jan 5th, 2011, 12:12 | #122 |
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Supplies/tool shops are somewhat thin on the ground around where I live in CZ so a bit of common sense and making do with whats available is sometimes the only way!!
The only flaw in my plan is if the depth at which the race is seated is so far back that it doesn't give you enough room to maneuver with the washer/bolt combo... Thinking about it...no reason not to fit it up loose, arrange it flower stylee and pull it all tight one in position... :-) Of course this is all just suggestions!! If you do get it to work then I'll be smug....If in practice its a load of rubbish then I appologise!! :-( Last edited by czech240; Jan 5th, 2011 at 12:15. |
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Jan 5th, 2011, 12:14 | #123 |
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I don't think a leg type puller will work, the legs aren't rigid enough. There is a Volvo puller, in essence it is a flat plate on a swivel. Push it through the cone, turn plate through 90 degrees and pull against the axle tube. I'm fairly sure I don't have one though.
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Jan 5th, 2011, 12:32 | #124 | |
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Quote:
Does this youtube vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ntIux...eature=related demonstate the idea behind what you are describing? Obviously the tool in this vid is too chunky but together with Czech240's idea's, Paul might be able to make something similar. Doug |
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Jan 5th, 2011, 12:39 | #125 | |
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Jan 5th, 2011, 12:54 | #126 |
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The cone normally will pull out with fingers alone.
What you need is a bar of metal that is the longest that will go sideways behind the cone and bear on the protruding ring of the cone. Something with rounded ends to follow the curve of the inside of the casing would be best, the wider the better. That's the basis of the oval disc tool - it can't actually be round because it has to pass the centre of the cone. Of course if the cone has been turning it may actually have welded itself to the casing, in which case nothing will move it. Another thought is to remove the opposite shaft and push a long metal rod right through the axle, and wedge it with a block of wood so that it bears on the back of the cone. Then belt it sharply with a big hammer. It works for getting broken Land-Rover half shafts out. |
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Jan 5th, 2011, 13:32 | #127 | |
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Jan 5th, 2011, 14:52 | #128 |
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Thanks again all.
I saw that vid' this morn' whilst munching breakie. Making up a puller is a good idea but, erm cards on the table time....... I'm the sort of chap that takes things apart & cleans refits/replaces no problems Making things lol, if I cut two bits of wood to the 'same size' I always end up with one a few mills shorter than t'other So with the best will in the world I know that is a tad beyond my skills. I do not mean that disrespectfully in any way to all of your fab & helpful suggestions. I'm loving all the comments (yes even yours 'CA'), ideas & encouragement. They are all keeping my spirits up, so do keep em' coming Now if normally it should pull out by hand, I'm thinking just maybe a three legged puller will do it. Not a great expense and something useful to tuck away. At the same time I'll probably pick up some decent cutters/burrs to fit to my cheap cheap dremmel lookalike. With those two it'll either come out or will prove that it has indeed welded itself in place. You may recall I had a front bearing that welded itself to its stub axle a few years back. Will I be unlucky enough to have two of the blighters do that to me lol. I don't think I'll be able to get to the shop before Friday earliest due to swmbo's work commitments, or maybe I should ask if she's willing to do the 20 miles each way tomo' on her 'treader'? ..................
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Jan 5th, 2011, 15:33 | #129 |
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I don't know the exact design of the Volvo 240 axle, but the crown wheel has to have a cut-out centre to allow one of the half shafts to project into the differential bolted on the other side. On some designs the ends of the two shafts in fact touch each other end to end, inside the differential gears, important in adjusting the bearing end float. It would be unusual if there were not an access right through, because otherwise it would not be possible to retrieve a broken half shaft. Here is a picture of a 960, presumably basically the same: http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgur...LMW0hAfPs_C3Dg Last edited by Clifford Pope; Jan 5th, 2011 at 15:43. |
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Jan 5th, 2011, 17:31 | #130 |
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Get yourself a small (1/2 inch, 10mm) cold chisel, using one corner of the flat edge hammer it into the face of the bearing race, use eye protection. It will crack, eventually.
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