Body/Trim: Door Trims

[Angie]

Can anyone tell me please how the grey rubbing strips on the doors are fixed? One started to pull away at the end years ago and I fixed it back with strong double-sided tape, which worked for two or three years but next time I tried it it just wouldn't stick. Anyway if the fixings are moulded in with the strips there's not much to do I suppose apart from discretely screwing them back in place, but if they have a separate fixing like other trim bits do maybe it's possible to obtain the correct part.

Sorry, long post for a fairly insignificant problem! Any advice/information gladly received.

[Bob Meadows]

The door trim (base or the door):~
These are held in place by double sided tape and a sort of barbed clip molded into each piece- 3/4 per trim from memory (I would avoid screwing them in)

The best tape is "high bond" but the areas need to be cleaned to allow them to stick properly- panel degreaser works well.
For some reason though the trim pieces do seem to reject tape or they did on my '88 240.

I solved the problem by using the above but also added a bead of Polyurethane adhesive to the top/ends of the trim - you need to mask off just above the trim forming a clean line & seal- you only need a bead as the stuff is difficult to remove once set.
Hope it helps.
Regards Bob.

[230ina245]

Hi
Gorilla glue works well also - just use it in moderation and clamp the trim to the door for a period.
Tim

[BicycleBoy]

Originally Posted by 230ina245

Hi
Gorilla glue works well also - just use it in moderation and clamp the trim to the door for a period.
Tim

Foaming polyurethane glue is the devils's ejaculate.
It might be useful in some very specific frameing appications if you're not getting paid to cut tenons, otherwise, no. No place for it in the home or garage either.

Use good quality double sided vehicle.tape on a thoroughly cleaned and dewaxed panel and trim, and the job's a good 'un.

Had a trim "stuck" on with GG when I bought mine, it fell off easily enough but had to chisel the glue off the paintwork. The foaming nature meant the trim sat about 2mm higher than the rest, leaked out the edges and looked ghetto, in a bad way.

[Familyman 90]

Indeed. If you must use PU for bonding then use something like Sika 221.

Bonding tape is ideal if the entire component is adrift from the car, but not so good if it is still well attached but only peeling at an end.

[Clifford Pope]

The trim does have an amazing ability, after 30 years of lying flat, to suddenly decide to curl up at the ends.
Double-sided tape I found totally useless - it is pathetically weak compared with the incredible curling strength of the trim.

In the end I used something called Tiger Adhesive or some such name. I ironed the trim panels flat first, and then braced the trim against the side of the garage for a few days to let it fully set.

[BicycleBoy]

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

The trim does have an amazing ability, after 30 years of lying flat, to suddenly decide to curl up at the ends.
Double-sided tape I found totally useless - it is pathetically weak compared with the incredible curling strength of the trim.

Ten second over the stove restores plasticity, then let it cool on a flat surface. Or just wave a blowtorch at it if it's still attached.

[230ina245]

Originally Posted by BicycleBoy

Had a trim "stuck" on with GG when I bought mine, it fell off easily enough but had to chisel the glue off the paintwork. The foaming nature meant the trim sat about 2mm higher than the rest, leaked out the edges and looked ghetto, in a bad way.

While I would agree with your description, that sounds like it was not used in moderation (having read instructions) and was not clamped!
I think the main problem is that only 6 -12" of the trim (depending on how long you try to put up with it) tends to come away. It is then impossible to properly clean all the way behind without making the the bend much worse, compounding the fact that not all double sided tape is created equal.
A heat gun may help to get it back in shape but would also "restore" the colour in that part.
Personally, I think the 240's look better without the trim, but that's a lot of holes to weld up and paint!
Tim

[Bob Meadows]

Another advantage in using a Polyurethane based product is that if you mask the top of the trim & door leaving a gap of about 1/16" on each then a waterproof line can be created.
Do a similar exercise for front & rear edges:~

The hard rubber like finish can be rubbed lightly blending in with the trim- forever black will also take to this product.
Small dabs on the back of the trim also help adhesion but as previously mentioned do not overdo it.
VHB: tape is quite expensive but the best to use in conjunction with the above.
Have fun
Regards Bob.

[Angie]

Thanks for all the replies and comments, peoples. The double-sided tape seems the best option, as it did work previously. Maybe I didn't clean the surfaces enough second time around but I guess to do that thoroughly means taking the plastic off completely, which sounds like a door-card removal job.

Any thoughts about the new transparent tapes that are apparently strong enough for hanging pictures? I think there are some waterproof ones available now but they're expensive and I don't want to chuck money away on something which won't work.