122s MOT time

[Volvo Guy]

Hi.

My White 122s is nearly ready for its first MOT since 1985 after a few months of tinkering. I just need to rebuild the front calipers and do some brake pipe and the flexis.

Has anyone got any suggestions of any common MOT faliures that I should check over before I book it in?

To recap I have unsiezed the engine, re-ringed it, new clutch + rear main oil seal, new clutch and brake master cylinders, new rear brake shoes, cylinders and adjusters, 2 new tyres, replaced fuel tank, rebuilt carbs, welded up the exhaust, new battery, horn, and a few other odd jobs. All the lights, wipers, washers work. There is no sign off any rot underneath and no dodgy welding. Boot floor and spare wheel well are like new.

Despite having no brakes I couldnt resist a little spin round the block yesterday. It sounded great with the exhaust off at the manifold and it pulled like a train! Big smiles all round!

[Tail]

Part of the changes to the MOT is that now the track rod ends and various other joints used to get an advisory if they were ok but the rubbers were perished or split,now its a fail, i replaced a couple on mine and it seemed to keep him happy and didn't pay the others too much attention, normally if he finds one split or with play he will get the pry bar out and try them all.

Adjusting seats now have to be able to slide on their mounts, mine were a little stiff due to years of accumulated hair and muck on the greased runners, soon cleaned up though ok.

Dash lights have to work now, main beam etc and the speedo can fail if it fails to illuminate,glass is cracked or doesn't work.

No dripping steering boxes, give it a clean before you go if it is a bit weepy.

Battery has to be secure now and there is a visible wiring condition check as well.

A bit to keep you going

[Volvo Guy]

Originally Posted by Tail

Part of the changes to the MOT is that now the track rod ends and various other joints used to get an advisory if they were ok but the rubbers were perished or split,now its a fail, i replaced a couple on mine and it seemed to keep him happy and didn't pay the others too much attention, normally if he finds one split or with play he will get the pry bar out and try them all.

Adjusting seats now have to be able to slide on their mounts, mine were a little stiff due to years of accumulated hair and muck on the greased runners, soon cleaned up though ok.

Dash lights have to work now, main beam etc and the speedo can fail if it fails to illuminate,glass is cracked or doesn't work.

No dripping steering boxes, give it a clean before you go if it is a bit weepy.

Battery has to be secure now and there is a visible wiring condition check as well.

A bit to keep you going

Thanks for that, I think I should be ok with most of that but I am a bit worried about the track rod rubbers and tie rod rubbers. I haven't had a good look at them and I bet they're perished after 30years.

But I've just washed the last bits of exhaust putty out of my hair after refitting the silencer this afternoon so I think I'll wait until next weekend to get the crawler board out again.

Its got some rust around the top of the headlights. Does this need to be taped up if its a bit sharp?

[Tail]

I know its no sharp edges in case you hit someone, never mind the damage the car will do going over them so long as they don't get a cut from a rusty wing as they bounce around under the car....