those &*$& brake pad retaining pins - Page 2

chesters6 · Mar 21st, 2010, 13:44

i found on some pins there's a little clip each end so have another peek .
my rears don't have clips at all just a strange square spring dooda ,when i replace them i will use the correct things.
if they don't drive out the correct way i would grind off the head of the pin and try beating them out the wrong way ,hopefully they are stuck at the head end so the force will not be expended to much hitting them

redboy · Mar 21st, 2010, 17:41

Thanks everyone for your tips! As I don't have a set of new pins, and I'm going to Wales next week to get LPG converted, I'm leaving it for now until I have the right bits- I'm sure the old ones will be useless by the time they're out. So glad I didn't do my usual and just beat it until it got worse.

.... and I thought it would be about 45 minutes work per wheel. ha!

Clifford Pope · Mar 22nd, 2010, 17:15

Definitely tap so that the end with the R-spring comes out first, which from memory means hitting from the outside.

Try tapping gently sideways with a fine cold chisel right up close to the hole in the caliper, it might shock the rust in a different direction.

The calipers can definitely be left connected to the pipes. You can very gently bend the pipes over a large radius if you have to to get another inch of clearance, just be very careful not to let it suddenly kink.
Once you have pulled the disc a little way clear of the hub it will angle somewhat, which helps a little bit more.

It really can be done! For advanced students you can even wind the entire suspension leg out from the coiled pipes.

Mar 21st, 2010, 13:44	#11
chesters6 Master Member Last Online: Oct 17th, 2012 16:14 Join Date: May 2007 Location: Farnham View Photos By: chesters6	i found on some pins there's a little clip each end so have another peek . my rears don't have clips at all just a strange square spring dooda ,when i replace them i will use the correct things. if they don't drive out the correct way i would grind off the head of the pin and try beating them out the wrong way ,hopefully they are stuck at the head end so the force will not be expended to much hitting them Last edited by chesters6; Mar 21st, 2010 at 13:47.

Mar 21st, 2010, 17:41	#12
redboy Master Member Last Online: Aug 9th, 2013 23:07 Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: hastings	Thanks everyone for your tips! As I don't have a set of new pins, and I'm going to Wales next week to get LPG converted, I'm leaving it for now until I have the right bits- I'm sure the old ones will be useless by the time they're out. So glad I didn't do my usual and just beat it until it got worse. .... and I thought it would be about 45 minutes work per wheel. ha!

Mar 22nd, 2010, 17:15	#13
Clifford Pope Not an expert but ... Last Online: Yesterday 12:45 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Boncath	Definitely tap so that the end with the R-spring comes out first, which from memory means hitting from the outside. Try tapping gently sideways with a fine cold chisel right up close to the hole in the caliper, it might shock the rust in a different direction. The calipers can definitely be left connected to the pipes. You can very gently bend the pipes over a large radius if you have to to get another inch of clearance, just be very careful not to let it suddenly kink. Once you have pulled the disc a little way clear of the hub it will angle somewhat, which helps a little bit more. It really can be done! For advanced students you can even wind the entire suspension leg out from the coiled pipes.

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