water pump leak

yappy · Mar 19th, 2013, 20:09

Hi all,

I'm having problems with a water leak on my Torslanda and wondered if anyone has any ideas? Coolant is leaking from the seal between pump and cylinder head. The pump was replaced 12 months ago and started to leak after about six months. The local garage who fitted it have now replaced it free of charge but the new pump is also leaking, despite being fitted with lots of sealant.

Any tricks to fitting or something they could have missed? They are talking about removing the head to investigate!! which sounds a bit drastic?

thanks

peter

Paul240480 · Mar 19th, 2013, 22:18

There is a 'knack' to it. Ideally 3 hands needed but not necessarily ..... A lever is needed to lift and push the pump towards the block. Difficult to explain. There should be a paper gasket. This only needs a thin smear of grease to 'stick' it to the block. 'lots of sealant' should not be needed.

volvo always · Mar 19th, 2013, 22:38

When I replaced mine I used no sealant just the gasket and so far no problems. I used a large screwdriver to lift up the pump while tightening the two nuts. From memory the pump body has a slot each side on the pump casting holes to be able to lever the pump up and compress the seal while tightening up the nuts.
When I removed the old pump I used a stanley knife blade on all mounting surfaces to remove any old sealant/ gasket which left a very smoth surface for the gasket.

The head definately doesn't need to be investigated for a leaky pump.

James

Clifford Pope · Mar 20th, 2013, 09:22

Did you check that the new pump slots were clear of casting burrs and that it would pivot up and down fully before you fitted the new seal? Sometimes with a new pump you have to clean up the slots with a circular file before it will fit properly.

Is the leak from the big seal or from the heater pipe at the back? That can be tricky to fit, to get the rubber sleeve to fit neatly in the pump hole and over the pipe at the same time without crumpling. The trick is to partly-engage over the pipe and in the hole, and then press so that both slide together at the same time.

yappy · Mar 20th, 2013, 19:29

The leak is from the top so i assume the seal into the head. It's going back in on friday so i'll see if it's third time lucky? somebody has mentioned a second seal like a rubber band which fits with the 'top hat' seal, have you come across these?

many thanks

peter

crusty coupe · Mar 20th, 2013, 21:48

Pump has 2 rubber seals & 1 paper gasket.

Gasket goes on face between pump and block.

Pump has "top hat style" rubber seal on top of it to join cylinder head.

Smear this with grease to ease in, if not they can snag and not seal fully.

Rear heater pipe seal can be smeared with Hylomar/sealant to help.

They can be awkward to fit if not done before.

All parts can be got from main dealers for about £3.00 each plus vat.

Cheers Jim

Clifford Pope · Mar 21st, 2013, 07:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by yappy

somebody has mentioned a second seal like a rubber band which fits with the 'top hat' seal, have you come across these?

No, I've never seen or heard of that. All I have ever read is of a different version of the top-hat seal to cope with a modified cylinder head.

Keeping the seal compressed by levering the pump upwards is really tricky to do, and I am not sure that the two bolts with slotted holes are really enough to hold it in position until you can get the ordinary bolts in too. Ideally it needs contiinued upward pressure until all bolts are fully home and tightened.

Derek UK · Mar 21st, 2013, 12:18

Not sure if this can be done on the 240, you'd have to take the undertray off for a start, but a method that can be used on the earlier B18/20 engines is to use a length of wood and a trolley jack to put some upward pressure on the pump. Very easy to control.

heckflosse · Mar 21st, 2013, 14:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by yappy

Hi all,

I'm having problems with a water leak on my Torslanda and wondered if anyone has any ideas? Coolant is leaking from the seal between pump and cylinder head. The pump was replaced 12 months ago and started to leak after about six months. The local garage who fitted it have now replaced it free of charge but the new pump is also leaking, despite being fitted with lots of sealant.

Any tricks to fitting or something they could have missed? They are talking about removing the head to investigate!! which sounds a bit drastic?

thanks

peter

Hylomar on the top seal before fitting, then lever pump upwards with a hammer handle.
can be a blighter to fit, especially pattern water pumps.
have fun !
james.

yappy · Mar 21st, 2013, 19:12

Both pumps have been pattern parts so that may explain some of the problem, we'll see how number three works tomorrow.

Thanks to all for help and advice.

peter

Mar 19th, 2013, 20:09	#1
yappy volvo owner Last Online: Jan 14th, 2020 09:36 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newcastle Emlyn	water pump leak Hi all, I'm having problems with a water leak on my Torslanda and wondered if anyone has any ideas? Coolant is leaking from the seal between pump and cylinder head. The pump was replaced 12 months ago and started to leak after about six months. The local garage who fitted it have now replaced it free of charge but the new pump is also leaking, despite being fitted with lots of sealant. Any tricks to fitting or something they could have missed? They are talking about removing the head to investigate!! which sounds a bit drastic? thanks peter __________________ 1961 122s B18 1968 221 1992 240 Torslanda so far...

Mar 19th, 2013, 22:18	#2
Paul240480 Ovlovnut Last Online: Feb 25th, 2024 08:58 Join Date: May 2006 Location: Nivillac View Photos By: Paul240480	There is a 'knack' to it. Ideally 3 hands needed but not necessarily ..... A lever is needed to lift and push the pump towards the block. Difficult to explain. There should be a paper gasket. This only needs a thin smear of grease to 'stick' it to the block. 'lots of sealant' should not be needed. __________________ 2004 V70 2.4SE Auto 'The Welshmobile’ 2002 Laika Ecovip 400i ( Motorhome on an Iveco 2.8TD) http://www.gitessouthbrittany.com/ http://moncopainmonchien.jimdo.com/

Mar 19th, 2013, 22:38	#3
volvo always Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 22:24 Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Midlands.	When I replaced mine I used no sealant just the gasket and so far no problems. I used a large screwdriver to lift up the pump while tightening the two nuts. From memory the pump body has a slot each side on the pump casting holes to be able to lever the pump up and compress the seal while tightening up the nuts. When I removed the old pump I used a stanley knife blade on all mounting surfaces to remove any old sealant/ gasket which left a very smoth surface for the gasket. The head definately doesn't need to be investigated for a leaky pump. James Last edited by volvo always; Mar 19th, 2013 at 22:40.

Mar 20th, 2013, 19:29	#5
yappy volvo owner Last Online: Jan 14th, 2020 09:36 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newcastle Emlyn	The leak is from the top so i assume the seal into the head. It's going back in on friday so i'll see if it's third time lucky? somebody has mentioned a second seal like a rubber band which fits with the 'top hat' seal, have you come across these? many thanks peter __________________ 1961 122s B18 1968 221 1992 240 Torslanda so far...

Mar 20th, 2013, 21:48	#6
crusty coupe Junior Member Last Online: Jul 12th, 2022 07:12 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: exeter	240 pump Pump has 2 rubber seals & 1 paper gasket. Gasket goes on face between pump and block. Pump has "top hat style" rubber seal on top of it to join cylinder head. Smear this with grease to ease in, if not they can snag and not seal fully. Rear heater pipe seal can be smeared with Hylomar/sealant to help. They can be awkward to fit if not done before. All parts can be got from main dealers for about £3.00 each plus vat. Cheers Jim

Mar 20th, 2013, 09:22	#4
Clifford Pope Not an expert but ... Last Online: Apr 26th, 2024 12:45 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Boncath	Did you check that the new pump slots were clear of casting burrs and that it would pivot up and down fully before you fitted the new seal? Sometimes with a new pump you have to clean up the slots with a circular file before it will fit properly. Is the leak from the big seal or from the heater pipe at the back? That can be tricky to fit, to get the rubber sleeve to fit neatly in the pump hole and over the pipe at the same time without crumpling. The trick is to partly-engage over the pipe and in the hole, and then press so that both slide together at the same time.

Mar 21st, 2013, 12:18	#8
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Yesterday 23:46 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	Not sure if this can be done on the 240, you'd have to take the undertray off for a start, but a method that can be used on the earlier B18/20 engines is to use a length of wood and a trolley jack to put some upward pressure on the pump. Very easy to control.

Mar 21st, 2013, 19:12	#10
yappy volvo owner Last Online: Jan 14th, 2020 09:36 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newcastle Emlyn	Both pumps have been pattern parts so that may explain some of the problem, we'll see how number three works tomorrow. Thanks to all for help and advice. peter __________________ 1961 122s B18 1968 221 1992 240 Torslanda so far...

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