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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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Detail cleaning...Views : 1215 Replies : 11Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 1st, 2011, 19:01 | #1 |
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Detail cleaning...
With the really warm weather this week, I got a late chance to give Tor a good clean.
It gave me a bit of a bug, and so I'm in the mood to get it looking in great condition. So I've got a bunch of questions on some fixes. And on how to get things looking great. 1. Rust. Could anyone point me in the right direction for a good, all-inclusive how-to on patching up small areas of cosmetic rust. I'm talking under the arches, and some at the bottom of the boot. 2. Paint. I've got the right colour for my car. But as it's white, I'm worried about the final match. I'm going to do the rust first, then patch cover with the spray tin. Any tips? 3. T-Cut. I should do this after re-spraying right? Again, any tips? 4. Exterior Plastics. The outside plastics on the car, the bumper, some trim are obviously a bit dull and faded. How can I get them back to shiny again? I'm looking for something that'll really last. But I understand that it'll need to be re-done every so often. 5. Interior plastics. I gave the inside a damn good clean the other day. But even now, 3 days later, it's a bit dusty. And dull. Is there any way to get it all shiny and new looking? I've been told to try olive oil and lemon juice. Right/wrong? Extras.... 6. Roof Rack. I've got a Roof rack .It's metal. (Possibly galvanised? Don't really know the right name for it.) It's the normal Volvo one you see around. And I'd love it to be black. How should I go about paining it? I'd like it a shiny black, but any black would do. I'm mostly worried about chips, and flaking. So looking to avoid all that. 7. Central console. (Handbrake bit). I've got a spare. And looking to replace it, has anyone done a how-to? I'm guessing the seats just need to come out, then a few bolts? But my seats seem to push on to the console itself, touching it, squezzing it. So I'm worried once I get it out, and put the seats back. They'll just crack the plastic again. Also, it's black and my handbrake is blue. Anyone have a black handbrake? (Is it even a possible swap?) 8. Seats. While I have the seats out, I'm looking to sort out a few things. The driver's seat is falling to bits, the foam is crumbling. My parents are upholsterers so that shouldn't be a huge problem. But I may just switch the foams if that's possible. If not, I'll make replacements. But also, the heaters have never worked on this car. Any obvious checks? 9. Engine Bay When I first got the car I gave the engine bay a bloody good clean. I used that Gunk(?) stuff. The spray to lift off oil. But I've forgotten the rules on water/engine areas. What should I avoid with the gunk? And what should I avoid getting wet? That's about it. It's an extensive list. So if anyone has an answer for any of the bits,just refer to the number. Any other tips on detail cleaning are greatly appreciated. And if anyone wants any pics taken just ask, I don't know what for. But if someone is going to do a job at some point it might be helpful (?)... And thanks obviously. |
Oct 1st, 2011, 19:12 | #2 |
I've Been Banned
Last Online: Nov 27th, 2012 10:56
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Forest Row
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only a few quick answers
1= clean off as good as you can == than put ruststabiler on it
2= dont forget to put the clear lacquer on it 4== use a rubbing compound first // than back to black /siliconefinish whatever 8== there are newly produced cushions and backrest cushions avaible i can get some if you want but have no clue of price |
Oct 1st, 2011, 20:26 | #3 |
BOB MY BIG OLD BUS
Last Online: Jan 15th, 2014 01:06
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Location: NORTH EAST
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The heated seats will be the wire has come off the tiny thermostat it will become very obvious when you take seats apart i do have several spare seat elements in the garage. One tip i would reccomend is that before you put any new foam on the seat frame firstly put on old piece of carpet on the frame and springs as it stops the rubbing of the foam if yo find you need some new springs then i also have some in my garage. If you fancy a run out you should have a drive down and have a rummage and have a go at those little jobs that need doing t cut the whole car before you paint as it brings back the original colour and when you do the wheel arches its not really noticeable. Again i do have some very good stuff that stops rust and chemically turns it to metal ready for filler/paint etc.
Meguiars tyre gel is excellent on exterior plastic and lasts months you can also use it inside but wipe over with a cloth if you want a matt finish its available on ebay.as for the roof rack a good rub down with wet dry and primer it then paint with an enamel spray paint and then lacquer not only will it shine but will resist chips and scratches! Like i say if you need a hand give me a shout. Ive replied to your pm theres also a good how to for the seats in the articles section
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Oct 1st, 2011, 22:31 | #4 |
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Last Online: Jan 15th, 2019 20:45
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Thanks for all that.
I'm just going to get on the jobs over the next few days. Choosing what to do dependant on the weather. I really haven't spent long enough on the car this year. It's time to put a dent in that list! |
Oct 2nd, 2011, 00:14 | #5 |
Stay gold baby!
Last Online: Jul 24th, 2022 16:15
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For the plastic trim, google Gtechniq C4. I've not used it myself, but I've never heard a word said against it and it looks damn good to me. It IS a bit on the pricey side, but lasts much longer than the usual tyre gel/bumper black products, and doesn't leave the horrible oily, sticky residue that those products do.
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Oct 2nd, 2011, 00:55 | #6 |
Master Member
Last Online: Mar 29th, 2024 18:03
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For the rust, brodgar is right about cleaning off as much as you can first, but to then stabilise it I recommend Dinitrol 3125. A great product in cavities and on surfaces such as you describe.
http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/rust_preve..._and_oils.aspx
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Oct 4th, 2011, 20:51 | #7 |
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Didn't want to start a new thread for this, as it's just a question. But, where's the thread someone, very helpfully, did on re-furbing headlights?
I read through the removal guide, thanks Mike.. And yes, I am stuck having to take one to pieces to get some stubborn bolts out. (This is after a great removal from my old Tor, the crashed written off one... Both came out first time, no WD40, no messing... This time, not so much) And also, did the full interior clean. Looks amazing. All shiny and new, well the plastics anyway. I'm seriously considering recovering all the seats. So I'm looking for inspiration if anyone has any pictures/links/ideas. |
Oct 4th, 2011, 21:20 | #8 |
Stay gold baby!
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Here.
The only thing I'd add to it is that where mike says to lever off the clips that hold the reflector, these clips will be extremely brittle and liable to break - they will also release by turning the head of the clip 90 degrees and this is a bit less likely to break them than levering them. You'll probably need a few spares either way.
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Oct 4th, 2011, 22:04 | #9 |
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Last Online: Jan 15th, 2019 20:45
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Didn't someone do a refurb though, painting/covering the reflectors?
And the clips, I was messing on with a spare headlight I have, and wondered about that, are spare clips available? Couldn't find anything too easy, but I haven't had a good look yet. |
Oct 6th, 2011, 08:49 | #10 |
Ovlovnut
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Hi, these may help.
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=126468 http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=121330 With the el-cheap DRL fix, I have not tried it on headlamps so have no idea if the ally tape will cope with the heat? My DRL's have had this 'refurb' in place for a number of years. May not be an acceptable option for some though of course..... For the plastic trim. Boot polish will work but will need to be done regularly. Plastic has oil in it, as the oil dries out the colour fades to a grey/White. On my 850's plastic I have rubbed in Linseed oil, there is a thread somewhere. It instantly brings the colour back and it lasts well. http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...ht=Linseed+oil Found it I have not tried it on my 240 yet.... HTH's
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