Amazon: My New 131

[Burdekin]

Doors look good. One new backing board and window channel strips needed.

[142 Guy]

Originally Posted by Burdekin

Doors look good. One new backing board and window channel strips needed.

Been there, done that with one of the backing boards on my 142. Fussy job. I used some 3M spray adhesive to hold the upholstery and its backing in place on the new board while I attached it around the edges. The foam backing was kind of crumbly in places. Finding a suitably thin replacement was tricky.

I cut some 1/8" Masonite for the replacement. Before attaching the vinyl, I gave the backing a couple of coatings with some water based polyurethane varnish to resist damage from the seemingly inevitable moisture exposure. Masonite is not a particularly water durable material.

[Derek UK]

Thin waterproof hardboard will match the original. Don't buy the cheap stuff. 3mm Scrim from Martrim. 1.8" staples from Machine Mart. Glue of your choice.

[Burdekin]

Stripped the doors and found some rust behind some sound deadening. It needed cutting out but always a risk with a big flat panel and the door skins are pretty soft on the 131. It was a bit of a fight, struggled to tack it in with tig as it needed pushing up from underneath so used mig for most but then got a bit of warpage so had to plannish back in shape then tig welded in all in one go. Mig doesn't plannish easily The helmet kept fogging up so was a pain and you can see how much warpage there was after welding. Most of the plannishing needs to be done with the dolly underneath so hard work. It would be fine just to use filller now but I want it better

[Steve 940]

Well I thought I was obsessive about doing things 'right', but I think your door repair endeavours put me to shame.

Wonder how many of us, would A) investigated further in the first place, or B) found the rust, and then just used rust converter/filler.

Cheers
Steve

[Burdekin]

Originally Posted by Steve 940

Well I thought I was obsessive about doing things 'right', but I think your door repair endeavours put me to shame.

Wonder how many of us, would A) investigated further in the first place, or B) found the rust, and then just used rust converter/filler.

Cheers
Steve

There was a big bubble in the sound deadening so I thought there could be rust. When I first saw it I thought it was just superficial but when I cleaned it up there was a couple of holes and it was very thin along the line near the hole. Cleaning all the rust pits, epoxy and filler probably would have been okay but it was at that stage it could well have bubbled through in time. It’s enjoyable to get the welder out and do some bodywork. If I had better access I’d metal finish it but should get it pretty good with a bit more fettling.

[Derek UK]

Have you ever done any leading? As you can lay it flat a good place to try it may be?

[Burdekin]

Originally Posted by Derek UK

Have you ever done any leading? As you can lay it flat a good place to try it may be?

No never tried it. Hopefully the high build epoxy will be all that is needed. It’s nearly there, one second you can be too low and then after a few more blows can be high.

[Bob 1967]

I hate working with thin sheet metal, so easy to tin can from over work (I've had to cut out and redo a few).
It can pop in and out at will, sometimes after painting/filling.
Had W114 coupe, the roof to rear quarter panel were "leaded in".
I found this after a bare metal strip down.

[Burdekin]

Originally Posted by Bob 1967

I hate working with thin sheet metal, so easy to tin can from over work (I've had to cut out and redo a few).
It can pop in and out at will, sometimes after painting/filling.
Had W114 coupe, the roof to rear quarter panel were "leaded in".
I found this after a bare metal strip down.

Tin canning is certainly a pain. Seen some videos on YouTube of folk chasing it around a panel with shrinking without even having it back in shape first. When welding all the shrinking is in the welds, I don't touch anything else it's just stretching the welds back and panel will go back to its original shape. I have a shrinking disc if I do over stretch it. Tin canning around a welded area normally means you haven't finished stretching the weld adjacent to the tin canning area. If I have it back in shape and there's tin canning, that's when I start scratching my head. 😁