V70XC rear brake bleed questiion

[Bob Meadows]

I would definitely order a full set of replacement nipples prior to starting the job and as previously advised clean the existing as best you can, leave soaking in a descent penetrating fluid:~

If the nipples are any thing like a '97 V70 then one pair (cant remember if it is front or backs) has a smaller hexagon head and is quite delicate by comparison to the other set.
Use a tight fitting spanner or socket and gradual back/forward pressure until the thing starts to move.
Crack each nipple off and tighten back up quickly- do all the wheels prior to changing the part, if difficulties are experienced at this initial stage you can rectify it rather than being stuck.

The bleeding process had been straight forward- used the one man valve as link https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153338425...EAAOSwv9hW6s-7
Keep the header tank topped as you draw the old fluid out.
The replacement nipples also came via ebay and have been fine.
Good Luck
Bob.

[Nick45]

Thanks Bob.

I'd heard about the potential for alternate sizes - where that's the case, the rears are the smaller ones I think - and hopefully that becomes clear when I go around with the penetrating fluid. I might order the spares from the dealer just so I can make sure I've got the right ones. I have history in ordering wrong size parts on ebay! Mine's a 99 registered car but a 98 model (eg has throttle cable and dizzy, thankfully) which hasn't helped.

I still don't really understand why there are 2 bleed screws if you only use one. Perhaps I never will :-)

[Nick45]

Update - for the record, they are 10mm both front and rear....and there is no way on God's earth they are opening with a spanner/ socket.

They're already rounded and are the consistency of sausage meat. Bloomin' old cars grrrrr.

Any tips for removal and replacement in these circs lads? I don't have air/ oxy or any trick stuff. Can they be drilled out?

[DaveNP]

It was a rounded brake nut that got me into Metrinch spanners, they are a 'wall drive' spanner which has an odd wavy shape which grips the nut on the flat of the face rather than the corners, wouldn't guarantee it will work but it did for me.

[cheshired5]

For the expense of tooling up to drill out and tap and replace old bleed nipples with no guarantee of success coupled with caliper pistons and seals that will have seen better days, you might be better off sourcing a refurbished pair of calipers.
Some sellers might even take your old ones in part exchange.

[turboboy]

My V70 failed MOT a couple of years ago on cracked front flex hose one side.

Decided might as well do both sides while at it but finished up also changing one caliper due to a bleed nipple being seized and although I managed to get it open and bled, it wouldn't close properly and resulted in the wheel being covered in brake fluid on the retest!

Thought about drilling it out but calculated that it was worth the £50 to get a straight replacement next day rather than wait for replacement nipple and a couple of days in the rain under the car only to find that drilling out a nipple is not as straight forward a first envisaged.

I do know of a company that refurbish calipers on an exchange basis but will not accept old calipers with broken / seized bleed nipples because of the extra amount of work sometimes needed to replace seized nipples.

[turboboy]

Originally Posted by DaveNP

It was a rounded brake nut that got me into Metrinch spanners, they are a 'wall drive' spanner which has an odd wavy shape which grips the nut on the flat of the face rather than the corners, wouldn't guarantee it will work but it did for me.

I have a set of these which are intended to fit both metric and imperial sizes. Don't use them very often and not used the smaller sizes but for brakes I would suggest proper hexagon spanners designed for brake pipes and bleed nipples which are a close fit to avoid rounding off the corners of nipples and brass brake pipe nuts.

[Nick45]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

For the expense of tooling up to drill out and tap and replace old bleed nipples with no guarantee of success coupled with caliper pistons and seals that will have seen better days, you might be better off sourcing a refurbished pair of calipers.
Some sellers might even take your old ones in part exchange.

Might need all 4 if a rear bleed doesn't solve the problem as the fronts are just as bad.

[400-ascona]

Originally Posted by Nick45

Thanks for all the advice folks. Got to say I'm not looking forward to the job as the nipples on the rear offside have had no dust covers on for what seems a long time - really poor condition. Maybe the smart move is to order some spares before I start...

Find a drill bit where the shank is a tight fit in the nipple and stick it in. It stops the nipple collapsing so readily and twisting off as you undo it. You can also direct heat onto the drill to heat the nipple to break the rust hold.

If they do break, I weld a washer to the nipple and then a nut to the washer. They never fail to come out then!

Eezibleed, if used at 20psi has neve failed me yet and my kit is now at least 20 years old. The Volvo didn't give me any issues after having all the calipers off last month. And I only used the top nipple on the rears. However, if you have the ABS pump off, any car can be more problematic on most cars.

[CNGBiFuel]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

I've used the Sealey VS820 for 6 years and it's never failed me on any car or van. It also fits my cooling system for quick and easy pressure testing.

In which case you've been lucky. In my experience and many others, they're junk, good for 3-4 uses only.... see the Amazon reviews on them... same bottle gets barnded under many names.

I'm afraid along with the Eezibleed, the Sealey type is one of the poorer pressure-bleeders. Branded under heaps of names, they must all come from the same factory. All give-up at the tube-joint at the top of the bottle.

There's been heaps of recalls on these.