The Morbidmobile Blog

[Chris1Roll]

Originally Posted by 360beast

P! P! P! Good god sir this has a proper gearbox not an autotragic!

Ah I forgot the bit on the last page about converting to manual!

[TomSaintJames]

Originally Posted by Chris1Roll

This is the way to go, of course.
However if you just want to hear it crank over, or maybe even start it, you can bridge the terminals on the starter with a screwdriver (or a stick with a nail in it)
With the key in pos 2, if everything else is in oder, it will start.

Note - it is essentialthat you make sure the car is definitely in P!
Embarrassing story I haven't relayed yet - outside work, no crank (but a relay click). Assuming sticky solenoid, I tapped solenoid with the wheel brace, still no crank but relay click. Key in pos 2, screwdriver across the terminals, fired right up. Cheer turned to mild panic as after a moment the car lurched backwards! I'd left it in R!!
Good job the handbrake works! Valuable lesson learned.

It ws supposed to have an AW71L but I broke it! M90 sourced and installed now but goes to show the value of the starter inhibitor switch!

I did this on Wednesday just to test the starter motor.

https://youtube.com/shorts/bYnUW6Bz2...TzX4AA6nSS3TF0

[loki_the_glt]

I made a similar mistake many, many years ago when re-commissioning my uncle's FIAT 131 Mirafiori automatic. In that instance the inhibitor switch had stuck in the "off" (i.e. does NOT do what it says on the tin!) and the car shot backwards into the garage door. (The car had been left outside as the "garage" was their utility room-cum-storage space.)
Lesson learned, my dad and I put a set of axle stands under the back axle before attempting any further work involving engine/transmission.
Oh, and we hastily wiped the garage door and back bumper down. What my uncle didn't know, wouldn't give him a heart attack.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by TomSaintJames

No crank...

I'm itching to attack it with a multimeter, I've been looking up how to approach it and will test the trigger wire at each junction from the key to the starter solenoid, the junction where 12v is not present will tell me where the problem is and hopefully I'll then be able to solve the problem.

The multimeter may lie so once you've done that, if it all looks good, repeat using a 12V test lamp. Clip the earth lead from the test lamp on a good earth then go through the same points with the test lamp probe, the lamp should light at each point.

What's the difference? Multimeters have a sensitivity (resistance) in the order of 10Mega Ohms/V so for each volt you read, it presents a resistance of 10M Ohms to the circuit - in other words, no load at all really.

Test lamps are 3-5W so pull ~1/4-1/2A and therefore present some load to the circuit. If you have a dodgy contact, it may be capable of providing 12V to the DMM but try that with a total resistance of 48 Ohms max as a load and it won't give 12V.

You could also rig a 21W brake light bulb as your test lamp giving 1.75A load and this would really show the problem!

[TomSaintJames]

We have key crankage!

-Alternator earth, relocated to the factory position just incase this makes any difference.

-Instrument cluster, fixed for now. I will put some nice ring terminals on the fuse wire today to tidy it up, I had very limited time yesterday after I woke up post-night shift.

The blown PCB fuse


More lights! I imagine the alternator earth completed these circuits. The other missing lights I hope will come on when other things are plugged in (indicators, low coolant light, seat belts, fog light, full beam)


I traced the starter trigger wire from the ignition switch onwards to test for 12v at each junction.
-Pre starter inhibitor 12.2V
-Post inhibitor switch bypass loop 11.9V
-Pre-C2 (53 pin passenger side connector that goes into the engine bay) 0V

So there is a break in the circuit somewhere between the inhibitor switch and C2, the green book does have something here called 18/5 TRANSFER BOX ALARM but says it is for USA/Canada/Japan markets only.
Tracing the thick blue/green wire from the inhibitor switch actually goes to the drivers side inner wing area where this little connector was hidden behind the thickest part of the loom, a 2 pin connector with two BL-GN wires.... The little sod!



A problem no more


Now we have 12V at C2 and twisting the key gives us cranking! Hoorah.

https://youtube.com/shorts/4jt67oPZg...G-5jV30OqrjtOU

I had a little more time, so I decided to next check out the HVAC and why this isn't doing anything. Trying to decipher the green book showed me that everything was correctly plugged in except the heater tap actuator, plugged this in and the control arm moves nicely between cold and hot.
But why no fan blower? I identified the motor connections and the resistor, there was 12V to each wire going into the resistor at each postiion 1-5. SO i removed the three connectors on the resistor and there was some of that black gunky stuff Volvo use for sticking things to surfaces on the connectors - cleaned up and we have a fan blower! But only on position 5, with very intermittent P4 too - that'll likely be the resistor then - although the wise amongst us have suggested removing the blower itself and checking for corrosion on the contacts etc. I hope to look at that today.

Good progress though! I am awaiting a few more parts before everything is totally assembled, I am missing the following things but they are all on order.

Fuel relay
Some HVAC trunking/tubing
Washer reservoir
Clutch slave cylinder
A/C condensor
A/C seals
A/C drier (i have a used one but I've been advised in the past these are service items)
MAF to turbo hose with PCV heater
PCV box to insualted pipe connecter and hose
Oil cooler
Battery clamp

[TomSaintJames]

I've not been able to commit wholly to Hearse tinkering today as i've had other things to do. But I have been thinking about the rear loom section, I'm thinking i'm going to have to make the wiring in place in the car marry up with the 940 connectors.
My reasoning - it's a 2dr extended wheelbease Hearse! So the standard 940 loom is going to both be too short and have a load of stuff that is not required. Really the only extra wires I need are the axle speed sensor wires with possibly the in-tank fuel pump wiring checking over.

I thought I could be clever and utilise some of the other wires for stuff in the back as part of the camper leisure area, but most of this will want to be coming off of the leisure battery with the exception of the rear speaker wires, the CD player can also be used to play DVD's and have a monitor/TV connector line out, I wonder if we could create a split system so we could choose whether to run certain things that are integral to the car/engine system (interior lights and radio for example) off of the engine battery OR the leisure battery.
Is it possible to isolate the engine battery if such things had a connection to the leisure battery aswell? I don't know enough about electrics to understand that, what I wouldn't want to do is for the both batteries to equalise their charges, as the leisure battery is used and loses charge, in effect would it be charged by discharging the engine battery if they weren't isolated? Much to think about.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by TomSaintJames

I've not been able to commit wholly to Hearse tinkering today as i've had other things to do. But I have been thinking about the rear loom section, I'm thinking i'm going to have to make the wiring in place in the car marry up with the 940 connectors.
My reasoning - it's a 2dr extended wheelbease Hearse! So the standard 940 loom is going to both be too short and have a load of stuff that is not required. Really the only extra wires I need are the axle speed sensor wires with possibly the in-tank fuel pump wiring checking over.

I thought I could be clever and utilise some of the other wires for stuff in the back as part of the camper leisure area, but most of this will want to be coming off of the leisure battery with the exception of the rear speaker wires, the CD player can also be used to play DVD's and have a monitor/TV connector line out, I wonder if we could create a split system so we could choose whether to run certain things that are integral to the car/engine system (interior lights and radio for example) off of the engine battery OR the leisure battery.
Is it possible to isolate the engine battery if such things had a connection to the leisure battery aswell? I don't know enough about electrics to understand that, what I wouldn't want to do is for the both batteries to equalise their charges, as the leisure battery is used and loses charge, in effect would it be charged by discharging the engine battery if they weren't isolated? Much to think about.

Use a split-charge system to charge your leisure battery while driving Tom and run a separate camper lighting system from the leisure battery - you may also want a small fridge/cooler and some cig lighter sockets and/or USB sockets from the leisure battery section.

The split-charge system is very simple, use a 100A relay terminals 30 and 87 to link battery +ve's, terminal 85 to the alternator warning lamp wire and terminal 86 to earth.
This way the relay contacts will only close while the alternator is charging and that will be the only time the two systems are linked. That way your normal battery stays charged ready to start in the morning but you get to run your TVs, phones etc from the leisure battery with no worries about getting stranded.

[TomSaintJames]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Use a split-charge system to charge your leisure battery while driving Tom and run a separate camper lighting system from the leisure battery - you may also want a small fridge/cooler and some cig lighter sockets and/or USB sockets from the leisure battery section.

The split-charge system is very simple, use a 100A relay terminals 30 and 87 to link battery +ve's, terminal 85 to the alternator warning lamp wire and terminal 86 to earth.
This way the relay contacts will only close while the alternator is charging and that will be the only time the two systems are linked. That way your normal battery stays charged ready to start in the morning but you get to run your TVs, phones etc from the leisure battery with no worries about getting stranded.

That is brilliant - thanks Dave!

[TomSaintJames]

I spent a good few hours today figuring out where the existing rear loom wires in the 740 go, it was a bit of a challenge as I have no 740 green book, so I rigged up a temporary testing system (don't laugh!) to supply 12v to each terminal in the 740 connector in turn - then popped around the back to see which wire did what light. The rear loom is currently unconnected to anything, so this was lieterally just giving each wire 12v and seeing what hapenned.



This was a great system to figure out the lights, even the interior lights worked. However, I was confused about the indicators until I applied 12V to the two likely terminals- then they both lit up! There are still one or two mystery wires for the rear clusters, one black wire got quite hot but didn't seem to do anything...

I identified all the rear cluster light wires this way, just eyeballing the wires at each end would not have worked as the hearse uses three 7 wire bundles, one for each cluster and another for some bumper lights (brake, tail and indicator). By elimination I also identified the four fuel pump wires, although not yet which wire does what - perhaps the 940 green book will help - or perhaps there is a way to test using the resistance function of the multimeter etc?

The passenger door loom looks factory, so I will search online for a digital version of the 740 green book and see what wire does what (this I hope will also tell me which fuel pump wire does what). I did look in the 740 haynes for wiring diagrams but couldn't understand them, the green book shows it much much clearer! If i spent more time I could probably understand it, maybe!

I must buy a new heater fan resistor, I'm only getting speed 5 and occasionally speed 4.
I had the fan motor out and although there was moisture near the plug connector there didn't seem to be any obvious corrosion - unless this may be behind the bottom cover between the connector and motor unit itself? That would require some fairly major disassembly and I couldn't see how that looked possible without really breaking things.

Anyone know what this plug conencts to? It is around the drivers dash speaker/volvoguard alarm conenctors/steering RHS dash switch panel. I can't see a 4-way connector in the 940 green book with these coloured wires. It wast unlabelled it so I assume it isn't important.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by TomSaintJames

That is brilliant - thanks Dave!

You're welcome Tom and thanks - but i've made a boo-boo in the first post about it - it should be terminal 86 to the alternator warning light terminal and 85 to earth..............

NOT as i typed it in my earlier post!

I'll blame it on a blonde moment or something, don't know what i was thinking of!