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b230fk Upgrades?

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Old Apr 12th, 2022, 21:56   #21
Beadybc
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Originally Posted by classicswede View Post
Both the Ebay links you have there are for defective parts.

The air flow meter does not read right at all and does not work.
The injectors are cheap copies and run far too rich under low duration and lean at long duration.

I stock genuine Bosch injectors

The Air flow meter and injectors need to be fitted in combination with a bigger turbo. The parts need to work together
If I move the electrics across from the current amm to the housing for the one that I linked or similar then wouldn't it work?

Stock genuine Bosch injectors, something like this?: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304156541...IAAOSwfXJhS0N9

Someone on TurboBricks recommended I buy redblockpowered's chips from America off of SwedBrick, how do these compare to the ones on your website?: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showt...48#post6146648

And when you say fitted in conjunction with a bigger turbo, would the 16T or 19T be big enough?
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Old Apr 13th, 2022, 00:55   #22
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You could use the housing and transfer the workings from a 016 into it.

As to injectors make sure they are genuine
I know my ones are https://www.classicswede.org/shop/ge...-vxr-injectors


Chips, no idea on how good any of the ones coming from the US are, since I have great working chips I have not found the need to go out and compare to others. What you do want to be wary of is some vendors of chips turn off the lambda function causing a fair drop in MPG

Turbo the 16t is too small really to warrant the injectors and MAF, the 19t is ideal size wise
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Old Apr 13th, 2022, 18:25   #23
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If I move the electrics across from the current amm to the housing for the one that I linked or similar then wouldn't it work?

Stock genuine Bosch injectors, something like this?: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304156541...IAAOSwfXJhS0N9

Someone on TurboBricks recommended I buy redblockpowered's chips from America off of SwedBrick, how do these compare to the ones on your website?: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showt...48#post6146648

And when you say fitted in conjunction with a bigger turbo, would the 16T or 19T be big enough?
Hi Beady,

I can't reply to your private message as I haven't made 30 posts yet, but yes everything was fine in the end! Subsequent ones have also been fine and really quick too! Can't fault it.
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Old Apr 18th, 2022, 18:18   #24
Beadybc
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Yeah if it doesn't dump it will not idle after acceleration (when pressure is built up). It dumps to the atmostphere (out the air filter) by allowing the air to bypass the spinning turbo. It take a good few seconds to clear the pressure from the intercooler and pipework if there is no dump and the throttle is closed. You can usually keep it going with a little gentle reving for 5s or so.

It is called a recirculating dump valve because it is open always during idle because its all after the MAF. Other non-recirculating types open momentarily until the pressure equalises, they dump after the MAF so have to close otherwise air is sucked in via the valve and not measured.

Some people think the recirculation means the pressure is recirculated and used by the engine and maintains the mixture from measured air, however not really what is happening, the ECU does not keep a log of past airflow, it only knows air flow now. When you close the throttle it immediately starts trying to do closed loop operation with the O2 sensor using a weakish mixture, it cannot respond quickly enough to enrichen the muxture so it just dies pretty much immediately. A MAP type system might work better in theory, but the 940 doesn't measure MAP(manifold absolute pressure).

If there is pressure in the system and no demand for power, it just uses the air in the inlet after the turbo and there is no measured air. Also its not really using the MAF, its mostly using the O2 sensor which is not a dynamic measurement. I think the MAF is involved somehow but its different to open loop mode during non-idle.

You just need the diaphragm, spring and the proper cover with the vaccum line nipple. Its connected to any of post throttle manifold nipples I think, some are larger than others, mine is the lower one of the 3.

It might be they have disabled or adjusted the throttle closed sensor too (this can keep the mixture rich), so you need to find out what they have done to achieve this stupid modification.
Finally got to have a look at the car yesterday, spent 5 minutes reinstating the dump valve then went for a test drive. Lo and behold the stalling problem is gone but the actual sound of the air dumping is still a lot louder than I thought it would be. I´m going to refit the original air box then hopefully it´ll quieten down a bit. Out of curiosity are there any other ways to make it quieter without hindering performance or will replacing the air box pretty much sort it?
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Old Apr 18th, 2022, 18:52   #25
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Originally Posted by Beadybc View Post
Finally got to have a look at the car yesterday, spent 5 minutes reinstating the dump valve then went for a test drive. Lo and behold the stalling problem is gone but the actual sound of the air dumping is still a lot louder than I thought it would be. I´m going to refit the original air box then hopefully it´ll quieten down a bit. Out of curiosity are there any other ways to make it quieter without hindering performance or will replacing the air box pretty much sort it?
The original air box is also a silencer not just for the dump valve but for intake roar as well. Refitting it should make life in general quieter, not just when the dump valve operates.
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Old Apr 18th, 2022, 21:40   #26
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It will make all the difference. I have a cone filter on the 360 with standardish B230FT its very loud but there is no way to fit the 940 air filter box in a 360 engine bay.

The 940 air filter is fine there are no upgrades except to make noise. The standard system sucks nice cold air from wing cavity from around the side lights.
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Old Apr 19th, 2022, 01:50   #27
deeman940
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Can't anyone give the fella a straight answer to the original question????
There are several ways to skin a cat if you want 300bhp from a B230FK....There are 'cheap ' ways of doing it or there are proper ways....
The first thing that needs doing is the clutch, most people uprate to a TTV Flywheel and Sachs 850R clutch which will just about hold on to 300bhp....
Engine wise, you need to start with the obvious breathing mods like an exhaust, you can get 2.5 and 3 inch systems off the shelf but probably cheaper getting a custom system fabricated as i did. If you want 300bhp a 3 inch is recommended...
Then a bigger turbo (19t for 300bhp)which will need a bigger downpipe) bigger injectors, a lot of people seem to use the VXR injectors, a bigger intercooler (KL RACING) and preferably a cam which again you can use a Volvo n/a cam or buy a proper one one from KL or IPD. you will need an uprated FPR (Porsche 944 turbo)
Then of course there is the electronics....you can either get some generic chips from ebay or it is much better to get a custom map done when you have done all the mods,,,to do this you will need a gold EZK box or a kit from classicswede to convert your ezk to chippable....250bhp is a lot cheaper to achieve,,,,
i may have forgotten some stuff bot hope this helps....Damo
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Old Apr 19th, 2022, 15:07   #28
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Can't anyone give the fella a straight answer to the original question????
There are several ways to skin a cat if you want 300bhp from a B230FK....There are 'cheap ' ways of doing it or there are proper ways....
The first thing that needs doing is the clutch, most people uprate to a TTV Flywheel and Sachs 850R clutch which will just about hold on to 300bhp....
Engine wise, you need to start with the obvious breathing mods like an exhaust, you can get 2.5 and 3 inch systems off the shelf but probably cheaper getting a custom system fabricated as i did. If you want 300bhp a 3 inch is recommended...
Then a bigger turbo (19t for 300bhp)which will need a bigger downpipe) bigger injectors, a lot of people seem to use the VXR injectors, a bigger intercooler (KL RACING) and preferably a cam which again you can use a Volvo n/a cam or buy a proper one one from KL or IPD. you will need an uprated FPR (Porsche 944 turbo)
Then of course there is the electronics....you can either get some generic chips from ebay or it is much better to get a custom map done when you have done all the mods,,,to do this you will need a gold EZK box or a kit from classicswede to convert your ezk to chippable....250bhp is a lot cheaper to achieve,,,,
i may have forgotten some stuff bot hope this helps....Damo
Interesting that you say that a custom exhaust was cheaper, was this because you or someone you know fabricated it or was it just cheaper?

One thing that affected my decision on the exhaust was the downpipe sizing because it has to fit the new turbo, what width + type of connection downpipe would be needed to fit a 19t?

Trying to find a second hand 19t is proving quite hard, only new ones from here:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MSVA8...osi&th=1&psc=1

https://www.speedingparts.co.uk/p/tu...SABEgLCVfD_BwE

And I don't really trust either of them.

I like the idea of getting the gold EZK and fuel + ignition chips from classicswede. I'm even more hazy on my knowledge of electric stuff, is it as simple as replacing the ezk, replacing the chips and then giving it to someone to get a map done?

I am now starting to see that achieving 250bhp is a lot easier to do then going for 300bhp+ without doing internals, which I'm fine with.
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Old Apr 19th, 2022, 16:26   #29
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It will make all the difference. I have a cone filter on the 360 with standardish B230FT its very loud but there is no way to fit the 940 air filter box in a 360 engine bay.

The 940 air filter is fine there are no upgrades except to make noise. The standard system sucks nice cold air from wing cavity from around the side lights.
Thanks Scooby and Tony, I took it for a test drive yesterday after refitting the box and yes it is has completely removed the turbo noise.
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Old Apr 19th, 2022, 16:45   #30
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Interesting that you say that a custom exhaust was cheaper, was this because you or someone you know fabricated it or was it just cheaper?

One thing that affected my decision on the exhaust was the downpipe sizing because it has to fit the new turbo, what width + type of connection downpipe would be needed to fit a 19t?

Trying to find a second hand 19t is proving quite hard, only new ones from here:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MSVA8...osi&th=1&psc=1

https://www.speedingparts.co.uk/p/tu...SABEgLCVfD_BwE

And I don't really trust either of them.

I like the idea of getting the gold EZK and fuel + ignition chips from classicswede. I'm even more hazy on my knowledge of electric stuff, is it as simple as replacing the ezk, replacing the chips and then giving it to someone to get a map done?

I am now starting to see that achieving 250bhp is a lot easier to do then going for 300bhp+ without doing internals, which I'm fine with.
If you're not already part of the "Turbobricks" groups on Facebook, I would highly suggest joining a few as there is a good wealth of information regarding turbo upgrades etc...

Quite a few of the guys on there run mamba turbos, which are pretty much bolt on from what I know. They are based on a 19T (I think!) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193939171142

You'll obviously need supporting mods to suit, which I'm sure you already know
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