re-commisioning a 1984 240 DL

Dear all

I have inherited a 240 and due to a death in the family I need to move it from the garage where it was stored. It has not moved or been turned over for the last 8 years and I need some advice to start it and get it back on the road. I'm not worried as much about it passing it's MOT as a friend will service it for me but I need to start it and drive it safely from Belfast to Sheffield.

The tyres have cracked as they have not turned for so long so obviously need replacing but what about pipes and hoses would these degrade. The engine has not been started for 8 years will this need special treatment before I try it.

Also insurance any ideas for a young male with 5 years clean license and has been named on other peoples policies but has never owned one. Some-one mentioned 'classic' to me is this a possibility.

Thank you in advance
Julian Ross

[vjck_uk]

Hi Julian.
welcome.
I would check it for oil and water.
If the oil looks iffy then change it and the filter but only if you can get it turning,just put about 3 litres in until it starts as if you've got to strip it then it'll be dumped out again.
Take the plugs out and put some oil down the bores,try to get some all over the sides of the bores.
If you do this first it will have a good chance to soak in while you mess with the rest of it.
Leave the plugs out until you have it turning over but with a bit of rag over each plughole to stop any bits getting in,or put the plugs back in loose for the time.
You will need to drain the old fuel and wash out the fuel system with some fresh.
Get a spanner or socket on the front pulley and see if it will turn over,if it won't turn put it in top gear and try pushing/rocking it.
If it does then put a battery or jump leads on it and let it turn over without the plugs in,put some rag over each plughole as you want the oil in the bores to come out but not all over you !!.
Put the plugs back in and try it if you have a spark.
If not then if it's a points job then they will need cleaning or replacing.
I would imagine it's not going to be keen to start and if/when it starts the oil should be round the engine.
When you get it started the clutch will probably be rusted up,the best way of freeing it is to SECURELY jack the back up,start it in top gear,get it at a reasonable revs about 30 mph,hold the clucth in and stand on the brakes.
That's assuming the brakes are working ok.
PLEASE do not let anyone stand in front of it in case it drops off the stands etc.
Before you get running it much take the belt cover off and have a good look at the timing belt condition/tension,I would change it anyway before running it to much.
Don't forget to check all the other levels and replace the gearbox,back axle and brake fluid before doing many miles.
You will need a Haynes manual for it (off e-bay is the best).
Regarding the insurance I just get all the free numbers out of the papers ect and just get a quote of each of them.
If you do less than 10,000 miles a year and keep it in a garage overnight then it will be cheaper.
Good luck.
Vaughan
Ps keep us all updated with the progress.

[Clifford Pope]

In my experience this is a totally open-ended proposition! I have known cars that just needed a battery and some fuel and they fired up first shot. Others, everything that could seize up or perish, has.
Once started, you really need to give it a very thorough check over before trusting it on any sort of drive.
Brakes are the most fundamental. At worst, caliper pistons may be seized, seals swolen, fluid leaked out, disks rusted, handbrake locked on. Even when checked, be very very careful when you drive it. Drive as if the brakes were going to fail - they may! Be very cautious when bleeding or changing brake fluid. The master cylinder hasn't moved for eight years remember, so when you push the pedal you are moving the internal seals over possibly corroded bores. Don't press too far down, and be prepared for finding the cylinder has to be replaced.
Be prepared for any one of enumerable rubber components having perished. Water hoses, inaccessible heater hoses, vacuum lines from the inlet manifold, servo hose.
Once you have got it running, with new oil and filter, let it idle and get fully hot. Watch for leaks. Check that it doesn't overheat. Watch that the thermostat hasn't seized.
Good luck!

[neil stevenson]

Hi
If I can be of help here in N.Ireland to get it up and running, please just ask.

It may be of interest to you to know that a M.O.T issued here in N. Ireland is of no use to you in England if you want to use it to tax it etc.

You can tax it on its old number all right but it must have an English M.O.T.

However an English M.O.T. is valid over here. To drive it from Belfast to the boat you will need a M.O.T. tax and insurance. To tax it you need an address in N. Ireland.

The cheapest and legal way is on a trailer.

[Peter Milnes]

As Neil says using a trailer is by far the best way as all you need to ensure is that it can be rolled. It will be chocked and strapped down on a trailer so shouldn't come to harm during the journey. When the boat arrives in Stranraer, let all the paddies get going before you attempt to move off as that road is murder with them on it!! I don't mean the cars either, the trucks are terrible!! You do not need tax, MOT, or insurance to trailer it, you just arrive, load it securely onto the trailer (I am sure Neil will help you to do that, if you ask him) and set out for Sheffield via the boat.

All the best, Peter