Bringing a 740 back to life

[Ian21401]

I wouldn’t expect WD40 to have much effect. I might have tried some releasing fluid of some sort ( as Luke mentioned) but even then more in hope than anything else.
As it is proving to be really obstinate. Why not spend some more time and remove the radiator completely. That would give you better access and remove the chance of damaging it.

[Challo]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

I wouldn’t expect WD40 to have much effect. I might have tried some releasing fluid of some sort ( as Luke mentioned) but even then more in hope than anything else.
As it is proving to be really obstinate. Why not spend some more time and remove the radiator completely. That would give you better access and remove the chance of damaging it.

It’s not so much the room in front of the pump it’s more to do with access down the side to try and move the pipe and try and break the seal. I’ll have move time this weekend to give it a proper go.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Challo

It’s not so much the room in front of the pump it’s more to do with access down the side to try and move the pipe and try and break the seal. I’ll have move time this weekend to give it a proper go.

Try some WMP on it Chris, WD40 is as much use as a chocolate teapot in comparison. It's a 50/50 mix of acetone (nail varnish remover) and Carlube ATF-U (or Dexron III, NAPA MV, or similar synthetic ATF) and once mixed, shake it well before use. Brush, spray or dribble it on, working into the siezed area. Leave it to work for a few minutes. Make sure you seal the container you mixed it in and shake well before each use as it will separate easily.

Why WMP? Weapon of Mass Penetration! So far, i haven't found a fastener that's beaten it but there's always a first time. That said, i've seen it shift turbo nuts on an exhaust downpipe that were 20 years old, never touched from new and lived near the coast and the previous week the car had been doing 150mph when it melted a cylinder - the molten lump caused the timing to jump bending all 16 valves and the sudden lack of cooling warped the head. In short it had cooked itself to death! The turbo nuts were more or less welded on!

[Challo]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Try some WMP on it Chris, WD40 is as much use as a chocolate teapot in comparison. It's a 50/50 mix of acetone (nail varnish remover) and Carlube ATF-U (or Dexron III, NAPA MV, or similar synthetic ATF) and once mixed, shake it well before use. Brush, spray or dribble it on, working into the siezed area. Leave it to work for a few minutes. Make sure you seal the container you mixed it in and shake well before each use as it will separate easily.

Why WMP? Weapon of Mass Penetration! So far, i haven't found a fastener that's beaten it but there's always a first time. That said, i've seen it shift turbo nuts on an exhaust downpipe that were 20 years old, never touched from new and lived near the coast and the previous week the car had been doing 150mph when it melted a cylinder - the molten lump caused the timing to jump bending all 16 valves and the sudden lack of cooling warped the head. In short it had cooked itself to death! The turbo nuts were more or less welded on!

Still waiting for the ATF to arrive. I have the acetone, but the first order of ATF was cancelled as the seller had become ill with covid and couldn't process the order. New order placed and should be here on Thursday.

Had another poke around last night, and I think its welded together where the nut goes through underneath the pipe at the back of the pipe. Obviously been leaking overtime and corroded together.

Fingers crossed the WMP makes its mark and gets the waterpump free.

[Challo]

So I had to get my mechanic to change the water pump. He said it took some persuasion, mainly because the gasket had disintegrated and the pipe had welded itself on.

Put all the carpets back in and it’s finally nearly finished. The only thing left to do is fix the speedo issue. The previous owner said it had just stopped working prior to it being sold. I have taken apart the speedo as I know the gears break easily, but these all look good with no issues. All the other dials work, Rev counter is fine.

Anything else I can check on why the speedo has stopped working?

[Ian21401]

Good to hear that the water pump problem is now resolved.
My 940 has a Yazaki speedo. Odometer worked fine but no speed indicated. Replaced the capacitors and one by one removed each of the small screws on the PCB, cleaned their contact area on the PCB then replaced them. That cured it.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Challo

So I had to get my mechanic to change the water pump. He said it took some persuasion, mainly because the gasket had disintegrated and the pipe had welded itself on.

Put all the carpets back in and it’s finally nearly finished. The only thing left to do is fix the speedo issue. The previous owner said it had just stopped working prior to it being sold. I have taken apart the speedo as I know the gears break easily, but these all look good with no issues. All the other dials work, Rev counter is fine.

Anything else I can check on why the speedo has stopped working?

Check the MoT history Chris, he might be telling you porkies about when the odometer failed!

[Challo]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Check the MoT history Chris, he might be telling you porkies about when the odometer failed!

MOT history is fine, and does appear to only have failed recently.

[Challo]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

Good to hear that the water pump problem is now resolved.
My 940 has a Yazaki speedo. Odometer worked fine but no speed indicated. Replaced the capacitors and one by one removed each of the small screws on the PCB, cleaned their contact area on the PCB then replaced them. That cured it.

Thanks will take a further look

[Challo]

As my Mini is in the garage I have been using the Volvo for the last month and been going well. I got the alignment done by the local garage using their Hunter system, and they picked up a slight issue with the front left wheel.

According to the machine they could get the alignment right as the camber is out. Now from what I remember you the camber is fixed on these, is that correct?

Any idea what might be causing the camber to be slightly out? Issue with the strut?