Bringing a 740 back to life

[Challo]

Originally Posted by bob12

Some years ago I had great difficulty in finding that hose (Volvo Pt No 9155496) but found a German firm Autoteile-Luecke who had the extact part made by URO (under the same reference). A-L are main agents for URO. People decry URO but, in respect of this particular item I have to say it appeared well made and has lasted 7 years so far!

I have just looked A-L up and see they now have a shop on eBayUK where the part (Radiator Hose, Cooling 9155496 suitable for Volvo) is currently listed for £26.70 at:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/382954642...Cclp%3A2047675

In 2015 it was £10.73!!

Bob

Thanks Bob

[Challo]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Wheel alignment can be a pain to get right Chris, especially if the steering wheel has ever been removed for whatever reason. From the straight ahead position, you should have 1 3/4 turns to each lock or a smidge over but it must be an equal smidge both ways. If you haven't, they haven't aligned it with the rack central, just with the steering wheel in the straight ahead position which will cause it to pull

I checked the steering as you advised and there is a 1 3/4 turn each way, but one is slightly more than the other. Rang the garage and they told me to drop it in on Tuesday just to double check.

I got the wheels balanced on Sat and one was overweight the other underweight. That explains the vibration then

Took for a drive on Saturday pm and couldn't notice any pulling to the left anymore but will get them to double check just incase.

Coolant flush this week and replacement pipes to fix the leaks. Hopefully that will mean I can get the interior back together.

One thing I did notice is that she cruises lovely on the motorway. Doesn't liked to be rushed but sits happily at 65. Obviously its a little different round the corners, but I have my Mini for driving quickly.

[Challo]

Currently in the middle of changing the cooling pipes due to leaks and I cannot get the heater control valve out of the car.

Pipes are off inside the car and in the engine bay. Is it a matter of brute force? Tried pushing it from the engine bay and no luck.

Also cannot get the pipe off the heater box inside the car. May have to cut the pipe to fit onto the golf one .

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Challo

Currently in the middle of changing the cooling pipes due to leaks and I cannot get the heater control valve out of the car.

Pipes are off inside the car and in the engine bay. Is it a matter of brute force? Tried pushing it from the engine bay and no luck.

Also cannot get the pipe off the heater box inside the car. May have to cut the pipe to fit onto the golf one .

If memory serves Chris there are a couple of screws holding the valve onto the heater box - a torch and a small mirror might help you locate them or whatever else is holding it in. It won't be brute force as they are designed to be removed and replaced and brute force could easily break something else.

Whatever you do, don't do anything permanent (like cutting hoses) untlo you are sure you've got everything right to start with.

[Challo]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

If memory serves Chris there are a couple of screws holding the valve onto the heater box - a torch and a small mirror might help you locate them or whatever else is holding it in. It won't be brute force as they are designed to be removed and replaced and brute force could easily break something else.

Whatever you do, don't do anything permanent (like cutting hoses) untlo you are sure you've got everything right to start with.

It’s not connected directly connected to the heater box. It’s connected to the firewall, but I cannot feel any screws.

I have a a feeling the rubber gasket in the firewall with the valve goes through is stopping it.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Challo

It’s not connected directly connected to the heater box. It’s connected to the firewall, but I cannot feel any screws.

I have a a feeling the rubber gasket in the firewall with the valve goes through is stopping it.

Not sure then, never needed to investigate any of mine with manual heating and the 760 is ECC so the valve is in the engine bay. Haynes is as much use as a chocolat teapot as it only covers removal of the ECC heater valve.

Try the mirror and torch to see if you can see any fixings and also have a look on the engine side of the bulkhead.

[Ian21401]

Daft question. Is the heater valve mounted in a “control housing” which is secured to the bulkhead by the clutch pedal bracket bolts? It is on my 1992 940.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

Daft question. Is the heater valve mounted in a “control housing” which is secured to the bulkhead by the clutch pedal bracket bolts? It is on my 1992 940.

That may well be the answer Ian - good shout!

[Challo]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

Daft question. Is the heater valve mounted in a “control housing” which is secured to the bulkhead by the clutch pedal bracket bolts? It is on my 1992 940.

Mines an auto though so no clutch pedal. I’ll take some photos tomorrow and attach them.

[Ian21401]

But does it still have the bolts where the clutch pedal bracket would have been and are they securing something to the bulkhead?