240 General: - Rear Valance Removal - 1988 240GL

PTJS · Apr 17th, 2013, 19:12

Hi All

I want to remove the plastic rear valance this summer so I can clean surface rust from under the back of the car and back bumper area prior to waxoyling. Is removal fairly straight forward? I can see some fixing bolts across the back but can't work out whether the plastic side mouldings are part of the valance and have to come off with it.

Cheers

Phil

Velorum · Apr 17th, 2013, 20:47

I have only done this once when I fitted a brand new one (those were the days!) onto a GLT. I recall that it was straightforward though some of the bolts at the back needed a fair bit of plus gas as they were very rusty. I can for the life of me remember about the side parts - I think as I took it apart things became clearer. Damn this unreliable memory of mine! It might come back to me in the early hours - in which case I will post again!

wooble · Apr 17th, 2013, 23:58

Remove the rear mudflaps (two bolts/screws in each wheel well, make sure to clean them and give them plenty of penetrating oil as they'll be rusty as hell)

The sides of the valance are held on with double-sided tape at the top, and two spring clips through the bodywork which can be released from inside the rear compartments.

Then remove the screws along the back, and the valance should be easily removable.

PTJS · Apr 19th, 2013, 20:30

Thanks Ian & Wooble! I think that's enough to go on. I'll get some plusgas and give things a good spray over for several days before I have a go at it.

Cheers

Phil

Paul240480 · Apr 21st, 2013, 09:48

Hi, I didn't go as far as removing my valence when I 'cleaned mine up'. Probably should of mind....

Anyhow, thought a couple of these pics may help you see some of the fixings mentioned

URL=http://s280.photobucket.com/user/Paul480/media/Volvo%20240/RustyRear011.jpg.html]

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HTH's

PTJS · Apr 22nd, 2013, 18:03

Thanks Paul that's a big help. I'll maybe look at getting the rear bumper off too so I can readily get at everything.

All the best

Phil

Stephen Edwin · Aug 3rd, 2017, 20:07

Thank you for this very useful 1993 thread. I've taken my rear valance off now, and I probably won't re-fit it. I'll fit blanking grommets to the holes for the four clips, and seal the grommets with silicone.

The two torx head self tappers along the bottom edge had no substance left for a torx bit to grip, so I undid the supporting brackets from the car bodywork instead. I'm doubtful whether torq head is suitable for under body work where there is so much road spray &c.

One of the four hex head machine screws along the top edge had a loose or escaped captive nut, so I gripped that nut with a small self gripping wrench.

I was puzzled by those clips along the sides of the car. Then I realised, twist the spring leaves through 90 degrees with pliers and the spring leaves come out of the hole in the spiggot that sticks in through the bodywork. Cushti.

Thanks again for the info. It helps to know what one is looking for.

.

Apr 17th, 2013, 19:12	#1
PTJS Master Member Last Online: Aug 22nd, 2022 17:32 Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Derby	Rear Valance Removal - 1988 240GL Hi All I want to remove the plastic rear valance this summer so I can clean surface rust from under the back of the car and back bumper area prior to waxoyling. Is removal fairly straight forward? I can see some fixing bolts across the back but can't work out whether the plastic side mouldings are part of the valance and have to come off with it. Cheers Phil

Apr 17th, 2013, 20:47	#2
Velorum VOC Member Last Online: Apr 17th, 2023 20:49 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Newquay	I have only done this once when I fitted a brand new one (those were the days!) onto a GLT. I recall that it was straightforward though some of the bolts at the back needed a fair bit of plus gas as they were very rusty. I can for the life of me remember about the side parts - I think as I took it apart things became clearer. Damn this unreliable memory of mine! It might come back to me in the early hours - in which case I will post again! __________________ Past Volvos 340's (2), 240 saloons (4), 240 estates (5), 740 estate (1), 760 saloon (1), 940 saloon (1), 940 estate (1)

Apr 17th, 2013, 23:58	#3
wooble Stay gold baby! Last Online: Jul 24th, 2022 16:15 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Bristol	Remove the rear mudflaps (two bolts/screws in each wheel well, make sure to clean them and give them plenty of penetrating oil as they'll be rusty as hell) The sides of the valance are held on with double-sided tape at the top, and two spring clips through the bodywork which can be released from inside the rear compartments. Then remove the screws along the back, and the valance should be easily removable. __________________ Click to see 240 parts I want to give you money for!

Apr 21st, 2013, 09:48	#5
Paul240480 Ovlovnut Last Online: Feb 25th, 2024 08:58 Join Date: May 2006 Location: Nivillac View Photos By: Paul240480	Hi, I didn't go as far as removing my valence when I 'cleaned mine up'. Probably should of mind.... Anyhow, thought a couple of these pics may help you see some of the fixings mentioned URL=http://s280.photobucket.com/user/Paul480/media/Volvo%20240/RustyRear011.jpg.html][/URL] HTH's __________________ 2004 V70 2.4SE Auto 'The Welshmobile’ 2002 Laika Ecovip 400i ( Motorhome on an Iveco 2.8TD) http://www.gitessouthbrittany.com/ http://moncopainmonchien.jimdo.com/

Apr 19th, 2013, 20:30	#4
PTJS Master Member Last Online: Aug 22nd, 2022 17:32 Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Derby	Thanks Ian & Wooble! I think that's enough to go on. I'll get some plusgas and give things a good spray over for several days before I have a go at it. Cheers Phil

Apr 22nd, 2013, 18:03	#6
PTJS Master Member Last Online: Aug 22nd, 2022 17:32 Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Derby	Thanks Paul that's a big help. I'll maybe look at getting the rear bumper off too so I can readily get at everything. All the best Phil

Aug 3rd, 2017, 20:07	#7
Stephen Edwin Premier Member Last Online: Oct 26th, 2023 20:42 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Thurrock	Thank you for this very useful 1993 thread. I've taken my rear valance off now, and I probably won't re-fit it. I'll fit blanking grommets to the holes for the four clips, and seal the grommets with silicone. The two torx head self tappers along the bottom edge had no substance left for a torx bit to grip, so I undid the supporting brackets from the car bodywork instead. I'm doubtful whether torq head is suitable for under body work where there is so much road spray &c. One of the four hex head machine screws along the top edge had a loose or escaped captive nut, so I gripped that nut with a small self gripping wrench. I was puzzled by those clips along the sides of the car. Then I realised, twist the spring leaves through 90 degrees with pliers and the spring leaves come out of the hole in the spiggot that sticks in through the bodywork. Cushti. Thanks again for the info. It helps to know what one is looking for. .

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