Underbody corrosion advice sought

[nickoso]

Having just (hopefully) sold my Toyota Landcruiser, I am looking at a P3 XC70 (ideally post facelift later model) as my next vehicle.

My experience with searching for Landcruisers (any Japanese 4x4 really) was to avoid any vehicle that had spent it's life around Scotland/North, as the underbody/chassis frame corrosion was usually horrific compared to cars that had spent their life in the less road-salty areas down South.

Is this an issue with Volvo too, or are they perhaps better prepared from the factory for the winter environment, than the Japanese stuff (who don't salt their roads so apply no real underbody protection from new)?

Thanks

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by nickoso

Having just (hopefully) sold my Toyota Landcruiser, I am looking at a P3 XC70 (ideally post facelift later model) as my next vehicle.

My experience with searching for Landcruisers (any Japanese 4x4 really) was to avoid any vehicle that had spent it's life around Scotland/North, as the underbody/chassis frame corrosion was usually horrific compared to cars that had spent their life in the less road-salty areas down South.

Is this an issue with Volvo too, or are they perhaps better prepared from the factory for the winter environment, than the Japanese stuff (who don't salt their roads so apply no real underbody protection from new)?

Thanks

To an extent, but really, any vehicle that lives in a salty environment will suffer from rust at some point. Volvo's are generally well treated from the factory.

[reggit]

Mines got quite a lot of surface rust on the rear cross member. I’ve got some rust killer ready for when the weather gets a little more pleasant in spring.

I’d definitely recommend having a look at the underside of any prospective purchase if you are able.

[Pidgeonpost]

I live in Gloucestershire. Our V70 was first registered and lived the first part of its life in Scotland. The independent garage that has done work on the car commented on the higher than average amount of rust on some of the underbody. They said it's something they often see on vehicles from Scotland.

[GrahamBrown1]

These cars handle rust pretty well, the rear sub frame can get suraface rust as it’s just painted steel but I’ve not seen one suffering from rot. They are pretty substantial. Other areas to watch is front subframe, the sides inside the wheel archs and at the rear where the under tray sits. Again I’ve not seen one so bad it needs replacing but there high traffic areas susceptible to stones ect.

The actual body of the cars are generally sound. Mine are 10 years old and still clean as a bell really for 10 winters.

What ever you do, don’t coat it in any thick black so called rust killer or preventer. That will ruin and rot your car.

[apersson850]

I mounted the optional mud flaps when my car was new. Saves some wear on the lower part of the body, thus less rust.

[Kev0607]

Inspect any car before you buy really as a rule of thumb. Check the MOT history online to see if there's been any advisories for rust in the past.

[Peter2400]

Originally Posted by GrahamBrown1

What ever you do, don’t coat it in any thick black so called rust killer or preventer. That will ruin and rot your car.

Why not?

[GrahamBrown1]

It simply rots your car from the inside out, as soon as the salt and moisture penetrate the coating that’s it. You are far better with something like fluid film or people are raving about lanoguard. Anything black and thick is just a disaster. However I have used it to hide all sorts when I’ve had previous old bangers to get rid of………..

[Georgeandkira]

Applying such a thick coating requires thoughtful surface preparation.

Just spraying / brushing any such roofing tar to "as is" steel seals isn't enough. Water always gets in and under the coating.

It was an add-on product offered by car dealers.