New 142

[Burdekin]

Originally Posted by Steve 940

What, you're not painting yourself???

After all the work you've put in, I'd be Very, Very reluctant to have someone else spray the top coat.

This is probably a numpty reaction, as I've never sprayed a car in my life, but I suppose you just have to get the professionals on board at some point, e.g. You won't be re-chroming on a diy basis.

Good luck, cheers,
Steve

I've done a bit of nickel plating 10 years ago now. Goodness. I want to get back into doing some, not chrome though. My mate had some really good success and did a load of parts on my 131.

This is his pre-plating cleaning process and along with agitation and a good power source you can do nickel and zinc okay at home.

Cleaning Solutions
Isopropanol IPA
Sodium hydroxide (caustic soda – heavy duty drain cleaner)
Hydrochloric acid (brick cleaner)
Tap water between each cleaning step.

Pre-Cleaning Process
If the part is already zinc plated, rusty or heavily soiled, do the following.
Clean parts in thinners to remove grease, underseal etc.
Clean part in hot water, washing up liquid and baking soda, then dry.
Soak the part in hydrochloric acid until the solution stops fizzing.
When the fizzing has stopped, all of the old zinc / cadmium plate will have been removed. Now wash the part in water. Inspect and check for rust. If there is rust on the part, put it back into the hydrochloric acid. Inspect every 30 minutes or so. Don’t leave it in any longer than necessary. Wash the past in water each time you remove it.
Once you have completed the above, lightly wire brush the part by hand. This will remove any residue from the process above. Again, wash in water. Now you can move to the Cleaning Process.

Cleaning Process
This is the important bit.
Wash part in Isopropanol IPA, then water.
Wash part in Sodium hydroxide then water.
Wash part in hydrochloric acid (max 2 minutes) then water.
If water will not bead on the job, it is clean. If water does bead on the job, clean it again. Look up the Water Break Test to get an idea of how to check surface cleanliness.
When water will not bead on the job, it is ready for plating.

[Burdekin]

Originally Posted by 142 Guy

Unless you are planning a gasket refresh be careful washing the grease crust off - that is probably what is keeping the oil in the engine . If you are doing the pan gasket, I like an application of Hylomar Blue or the Permatex knock-off just because pan gasket replacement is such a hassle. I use the Hylomar on just about every mating surface. The pan and valve cover gaskets are made from a material that appears to have been engineered in the early first half of the previous century

It was rebuilt last year the engine.

[Burdekin]

Painted the engine and gearbox today, couple coats of epoxy mastic and then a couple of coats of 2k topcoat.

[Burdekin]

I gave the engine bits a rub down and clean and decided to go with a 2k clear over. They are darker in the pics than in person.

[142 Guy]

It is interesting that your alloy parts are so dark. After removal of grease mine looked very light in color. I sprayed them with a high heat aluminum colored finish paint to brighten them up and give a uniform appearance. For an aerosol spray bomb paint it has been remarkably durable (9+ years).

[Burdekin]

Originally Posted by 142 Guy

It is interesting that your alloy parts are so dark. After removal of grease mine looked very light in color. I sprayed them with a high heat aluminum colored finish paint to brighten them up and give a uniform appearance. For an aerosol spray bomb paint it has been remarkably durable (9+ years).

They're all plated (gal or zinc) steel I reckon. Like I said in my post are lighter than in the pics. I did consider a metallic silver I have and clear over but I quite like them unpainted and the clear coat should stop them dulling a bit and help keep clean.

I have some Mipa high heat silver paint for the manifold, it's the dogs when it comes to high heat paint. Really good stuff.

[142 Guy]

The pulleys and oil filler cap are steel so I understand that. The thermostat housing, timing cover and water pump are aluminum alloy(s) of some ilk. It was primarily those latter three that I was curious about why they turned out so dark.

This was pretty much the color of my timing cover (before and after I painted it).
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/2117...SABEgJ5pPD_BwE
However, I see that some covers do look darker
https://vp-autoparts.com/en/artiklar...vo-b18-20.html

Mine is an original Volvo cover that was machined to accept the later neoprene seal.

[Burdekin]

Painted the 142 gearbox mount and a couple of the gearbox brackets tonight.

[Burdekin]

The 142 is progressing. The painter has made a start with the rear 1/4. She needed some pulling to get the trim line straight and then in epoxy primer. Excited to see paint going on. I made a start on the brake booster and master cylinder.

[Burdekin]

Painted the brake booster today. I was almost finished and my air fed whistle was going off, one of my compressors had seized. Not looked at what the issue could be but a pain. Got a new brake master cylinder today and comes with a silver coating, anyone leave them silver and if so does the coating last?