engine tear down

griston64 · May 9th, 2020, 19:17

I've removed the engine from my breaker and am now ready to start stripping in down in preparation for a rebuild. The engine is sitting in a friends yard so I thought I would remove the head ( I'm going to anyway ) to ease transportation back to my garage. Having never done this before is there anything I need to be aware of ? Or do I just remove gubbins ( timing belt fuel rail,manifolds etc etc and take head off ?

Cheers

Laird Scooby · May 9th, 2020, 20:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by griston64

I've removed the engine from my breaker and am now ready to start stripping in down in preparation for a rebuild. The engine is sitting in a friends yard so I thought I would remove the head ( I'm going to anyway ) to ease transportation back to my garage. Having never done this before is there anything I need to be aware of ? Or do I just remove gubbins ( timing belt fuel rail,manifolds etc etc and take head off ?

Cheers

First of all Mark, get it in a "timed" position like TDC and once you've confirmed all timing marks line up, highlight them with Tipp-Ex or similar so you can be sure of setting it up in the right place again.

Slacken the head bolts in the reverse of the tightening sequence, 1/4 turn at a time until loose.

Probably a couple of bits i've missed but you'll work it out from there.

loki_the_glt · May 10th, 2020, 08:47

It's easier to dismantle if you've got the crankshaft locking tool, though you can simply cut the old timing belt off if you're fitting a new one.

The manifold bolts will be easily accessible, but spraying them with Laird Scooby's WMP a few days beforehand is always a good idea.

And, as L.S. pointed out, mark the position of the crank- and camshafts before you start removing anything. The auxiliary shaft position is academic with a camshaft-mounted distributor as it only drives the oil pump; on B21/B23 and 240 B200/B230 lumps the distributor is driven from the auxiliary shaft.

Have a lump of wood to hand for "nudging" the head off the block; and put the removed bolts/nuts back where they came from before moving the engine to its new home. (Otherwise at least one, critically important, fastener will go on holiday.)

May 9th, 2020, 19:17	#1
griston64 Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 22:03 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Lenzie	engine tear down I've removed the engine from my breaker and am now ready to start stripping in down in preparation for a rebuild. The engine is sitting in a friends yard so I thought I would remove the head ( I'm going to anyway ) to ease transportation back to my garage. Having never done this before is there anything I need to be aware of ? Or do I just remove gubbins ( timing belt fuel rail,manifolds etc etc and take head off ? Cheers __________________ V70 D5 SE Geartronic 215bhp Saville Grey 2012MY 940 LPT Manual 1996 740 SE 1990

May 10th, 2020, 08:47	#3
loki_the_glt Torquemeister Last Online: Today 09:20 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Asgard, Cheshire	It's easier to dismantle if you've got the crankshaft locking tool, though you can simply cut the old timing belt off if you're fitting a new one. The manifold bolts will be easily accessible, but spraying them with Laird Scooby's WMP a few days beforehand is always a good idea. And, as L.S. pointed out, mark the position of the crank- and camshafts before you start removing anything. The auxiliary shaft position is academic with a camshaft-mounted distributor as it only drives the oil pump; on B21/B23 and 240 B200/B230 lumps the distributor is driven from the auxiliary shaft. Have a lump of wood to hand for "nudging" the head off the block; and put the removed bolts/nuts back where they came from before moving the engine to its new home. (Otherwise at least one, critically important, fastener will go on holiday.) __________________ loki_the_glt - Skipper of the Exxon Valdez, driver of Sweden's finest sporting saloon - and pining for another Slant-4.

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