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New way of wiring DRL

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Old Dec 9th, 2013, 23:38   #1
ymc30
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Default New way of wiring DRL

Hi guys,

I'm a big fan of daylight running lights and the additional layer of safety it creates but I think there should be a better way than using dipped beam for the whole day...

I was thinking if I could rewire it in a way that the light switch in 0 (DRL) position would actually switch on the sidelights instead of dipped?

I am planning to take out the switch over Christmas and check if it has three individual positions so I just wire the sidelight position (2nd setting) to 0 position. The only problem that the switch is really heavy on buttons and may not take it well if I disassemble it...

Any thoughts?
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Old Dec 10th, 2013, 16:02   #2
Missing Lincs
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Volvo's don't use conventional switching. Inside the light switch module you'll find a PCB with a chip on it that encodes the signals from the switches; the signals are then fed to other control modules which do the actual switching of lights.

You may be able to change the way the physical switch on the module is connected but don't be surprised if it not simple. If you physically change the connections then its possible that the sidelights will remain on with the ignition off which is how they operate in position I as they are now?

Something to be aware of, depending on the age of your car, DRLs may be compulsory, if they are, sidelights aren't bright enough. The road vehicle lighting regs specify the required intensity, position and viewing angles for DRLs.
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Old Dec 10th, 2013, 18:45   #3
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As above, all controlled by software really and not technically switch position so unless you added your own switch it isn't probably going to work.

I'd be interested in the outcome though!

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Old Dec 10th, 2013, 19:09   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Missing Lincs View Post
Volvo's don't use conventional switching. Inside the light switch module you'll find a PCB with a chip on it that encodes the signals from the switches; the signals are then fed to other control modules which do the actual switching of lights.
Pretty much I was prepared for that but I did not mean just modify the switch itself but involve "my own electronics" as well


Quote:
Originally Posted by Missing Lincs View Post
You may be able to change the way the physical switch on the module is connected but don't be surprised if it not simple. If you physically change the connections then its possible that the sidelights will remain on with the ignition off which is how they operate in position I as they are now?
It can be possibly avoided with some cut off relays but I'm just brainstorming now...


edit:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Missing Lincs View Post
Something to be aware of, depending on the age of your car, DRLs may be compulsory, if they are, sidelights aren't bright enough. The road vehicle lighting regs specify the required intensity, position and viewing angles for DRLs.
If we have some nice CCL angel eyes around the projector that will be probably quite enough.
I can even eliminate the yellow sidelights as I think that would not be road legal to use them while the car is moving...

Last edited by ymc30; Dec 10th, 2013 at 19:17. Reason: more thoughts
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Old Dec 10th, 2013, 19:12   #5
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Originally Posted by SonyVaio View Post
I'd be interested in the outcome though!
Will update as soon I have found out.
Nevertheless please feel free to contribute with ideas
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Old Dec 10th, 2013, 19:22   #6
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As a second thought if somebody has a surplus switch I could use I would appreciate to have it - of course I'd pay for postage

it could be damaged or scratchy plastic or if one of the other functions does not work (dash dim/height adjustment/etc) it's still OK as we are not interested in them
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Old Dec 10th, 2013, 19:30   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ymc30 View Post
Hi guys,

I'm a big fan of daylight running lights and the additional layer of safety it creates but I think there should be a better way than using dipped beam for the whole day...

I was thinking if I could rewire it in a way that the light switch in 0 (DRL) position would actually switch on the sidelights instead of dipped?

I am planning to take out the switch over Christmas and check if it has three individual positions so I just wire the sidelight position (2nd setting) to 0 position. The only problem that the switch is really heavy on buttons and may not take it well if I disassemble it...

Any thoughts?
despite all the buttons and switches on the light switch module there are only 3 wires going into it ,, all the functions are sent out the one data wire as computer data to the CEM which does the work .. ( the other two wires are power supply )
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Old Dec 10th, 2013, 19:50   #8
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despite all the buttons and switches on the light switch module there are only 3 wires going into it ,, all the functions are sent out the one data wire as computer data to the CEM which does the work .. ( the other two wires are power supply )
Fine, so it's a bit tougher than I expected. Long live CAN bus!

But I am so much tougher I still have the option to use some switching on the other end (lamp side) Which is actually more brawn and less brain (work-wise)

The only problem with this approach will be to find out when does the car need the proper dipped beams instead of DRL...

Maybe an additional switch? As I mostly in London (95% of my driving) it's not a big deal to have a small hidden additional switch when I want to use the "real lamp"

Or I can just use the light sensor output?!?

BTW it's enough for the why it can't be done approach! Please be more positive.
Imagine if we can solve this the world gonna be a much better place
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Old Dec 10th, 2013, 19:52   #9
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Originally Posted by ymc30 View Post
Fine, so it's a bit tougher than I expected. Long live CAN bus!

But I am so much tougher I still have the option to use some switching on the other end (lamp side) Which is actually more brawn and less brain (work-wise)

The only problem with this approach will be to find out when does the car need the proper dipped beams instead of DRL...

Maybe an additional switch? As I mostly in London (95% of my driving) it's not a big deal to have a small hidden additional switch when I want to use the "real lamp"

Or I can just use the light sensor output?!?

BTW it's enough for the why it can't be done approach! Please be more positive.
Imagine if we can solve this the world gonna be a much better place
You would be better off learning Software writing :-)
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Old Dec 10th, 2013, 19:54   #10
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You would be better off learning Software writing :-)
I have the hands-on approach
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