Volvo 940 upgrades

~Goose~ · Jun 17th, 2015, 11:23

Right then.

I am now getting close to doing a few things to the car to make it a bit more lively.
Its a 940 sport edition.
Upgrading to a 16t turbo, big intercooler, Me7 injectors, 2.5" exhaust (just for now) TLAO chips and probably some other bits ive forgotten about
Brakes are sorted, got some new bushes to go on, and the car is in good working order.

Im thinking of getting a TTV flywheel and new clutch while im doing things, but which is the best 850R clutch to go for? Seems to be loads to pick from and I don't want to buy the wrong one!

Also is there any other bits I should be doing that I have missed off?

Id like to get this all done in one go without having to take it back off the road to fix something I could have sorted from the start.

Any help much appreciated.

rogerthechorister · Jun 17th, 2015, 17:43

I'd like to see a step-by-step on the intercooler. I don't want to take out my aircon though.

What have you done with the brakes? I'd be tempted to go 302s but that would mean changing my beloved Galaxies. I've tried Black Diamonds but warped them (twice) and currently have a set of chinabay drilled and grooveds on one of my Sports, and am finding them very good with standard Volvo pads.

On the same Sport I am finding her very twitchy on bumpy motorways at over 115. I already have new (Volvo, right ones) front shocks and nylastic front bushes. Open to suggestions...

A friend of mine has found a way to get a 13c to run at 25 psi without knocking his engine to pieces (it's top secret and it involves retardation - although the 13cs typically last 3 months) and he says that at over 145 it is VERY hard to keep his straight.

TonyS9 · Jun 17th, 2015, 23:53

I would expect you can use the retard pins on the ezk, but a 13c will not stand the sustained heat of 140+ even at 11psi with high octance. The water cooling for the bearing seems to weaken the casing and it can't take sustained wot. I would not take it over 130. Standard boost seems OK for 125-130.

I don't recall any twitchiness but it was a long time ago, I stopped doing top speed runs after cracking the turbo.

rogerthechorister · Jun 18th, 2015, 10:20

I wonder if that's why Volvo incorporated the time limit in turboplus.

Cromlech · Jun 18th, 2015, 15:59

In regards to what clutch to use with the TTV flywheel (B230LITE I assume), I used a standard 850R clutch. Was running ~13psi on stock components and it held up more than fine for that. One thing to bear in mind is that it's so quick to spin up and grips so well that all I had to do was stomp on the accelerator pedal (no high rpm clutch dropping) from a standstill and the rear wheels would just spin and spin with ease.

crogthomas · Jun 19th, 2015, 15:26

The obvious thing missing from your list is suspension (bushes excepted). Springs, dampers, anti-roll bars, etc. What do you currently have?

~Goose~ · Jun 19th, 2015, 17:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cromlech

In regards to what clutch to use with the TTV flywheel (B230LITE I assume), I used a standard 850R clutch. Was running ~13psi on stock components and it held up more than fine for that. One thing to bear in mind is that it's so quick to spin up and grips so well that all I had to do was stomp on the accelerator pedal (no high rpm clutch dropping) from a standstill and the rear wheels would just spin and spin with ease.

Yes, I was thinking of the b230lite one, do you have a link to which clutch you used?

Quote:

Originally Posted by crogthomas

The obvious thing missing from your list is suspension (bushes excepted). Springs, dampers, anti-roll bars, etc. What do you currently have?

All standard sport edition spec, I was looking at the bilstein shocks the other night but wasn't sure if I'd need to upgrade as the current ones seem to be working well.
What do you have on your car?

TonyS9 · Jun 19th, 2015, 19:43

There is another thread on bushes and steering vagueness but I'd recommend changing ball joints and hubs.

The front rear radius and inner suspension bushes seem to last forever but the spaceships and arm recesses are prone to corrosion. Shocks must be changed and rear springs to match non-nivomats. I have the bilsteins sports and cobra lowering springs all round. Fronts are expensive.

Cromlech · Jun 20th, 2015, 08:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by ~Goose~

Yes, I was thinking of the b230lite one, do you have a link to which clutch you used?

I just bought an 850R clutch kit (clutch disc and pressure plate) from ebay. Was preowned, but still new in box. You should be able to find the same from a dealer or motor factor.

TonyS9 · Jun 20th, 2015, 13:46

A cheaper option is the solid 228mm plate flywheel with sachs performance cover plate. Just fitted this to the 360 turbo, feels easy enough. Not as light as the ttv and still expensive at £280 odd just for the cover.

Jun 17th, 2015, 11:23	#1
~Goose~ Member Last Online: May 20th, 2024 13:31 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Southport	Volvo 940 upgrades Right then. I am now getting close to doing a few things to the car to make it a bit more lively. Its a 940 sport edition. Upgrading to a 16t turbo, big intercooler, Me7 injectors, 2.5" exhaust (just for now) TLAO chips and probably some other bits ive forgotten about Brakes are sorted, got some new bushes to go on, and the car is in good working order. Im thinking of getting a TTV flywheel and new clutch while im doing things, but which is the best 850R clutch to go for? Seems to be loads to pick from and I don't want to buy the wrong one! Also is there any other bits I should be doing that I have missed off? Id like to get this all done in one go without having to take it back off the road to fix something I could have sorted from the start. Any help much appreciated.

Jun 17th, 2015, 17:43	#2
rogerthechorister Rogerthechorister Last Online: Dec 16th, 2023 02:15 Join Date: May 2006 Location: Rochester	Interesting I'd like to see a step-by-step on the intercooler. I don't want to take out my aircon though. What have you done with the brakes? I'd be tempted to go 302s but that would mean changing my beloved Galaxies. I've tried Black Diamonds but warped them (twice) and currently have a set of chinabay drilled and grooveds on one of my Sports, and am finding them very good with standard Volvo pads. On the same Sport I am finding her very twitchy on bumpy motorways at over 115. I already have new (Volvo, right ones) front shocks and nylastic front bushes. Open to suggestions... A friend of mine has found a way to get a 13c to run at 25 psi without knocking his engine to pieces (it's top secret and it involves retardation - although the 13cs typically last 3 months) and he says that at over 145 it is VERY hard to keep his straight. __________________ B234F estate, H reg 100k miles. RIP melted B280E. 760T estate, F reg 133k miles. 940 Sport M90 estate, N reg 170k miles. 940 Sport M90 estate, N reg 100k miles, ex Lovejoy. 960 Estate, N reg, 56k miles, blown up and sold.

Jun 18th, 2015, 10:20	#4
rogerthechorister Rogerthechorister Last Online: Dec 16th, 2023 02:15 Join Date: May 2006 Location: Rochester	Interesting I wonder if that's why Volvo incorporated the time limit in turboplus. __________________ B234F estate, H reg 100k miles. RIP melted B280E. 760T estate, F reg 133k miles. 940 Sport M90 estate, N reg 170k miles. 940 Sport M90 estate, N reg 100k miles, ex Lovejoy. 960 Estate, N reg, 56k miles, blown up and sold.

Jun 19th, 2015, 19:43	#8
TonyS9 Premier Member Last Online: May 19th, 2024 20:22 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Holywood	There is another thread on bushes and steering vagueness but I'd recommend changing ball joints and hubs. The front rear radius and inner suspension bushes seem to last forever but the spaceships and arm recesses are prone to corrosion. Shocks must be changed and rear springs to match non-nivomats. I have the bilsteins sports and cobra lowering springs all round. Fronts are expensive. Last edited by TonyS9; Jun 19th, 2015 at 19:46.

Jun 17th, 2015, 23:53	#3
TonyS9 Premier Member Last Online: May 19th, 2024 20:22 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Holywood	I would expect you can use the retard pins on the ezk, but a 13c will not stand the sustained heat of 140+ even at 11psi with high octance. The water cooling for the bearing seems to weaken the casing and it can't take sustained wot. I would not take it over 130. Standard boost seems OK for 125-130. I don't recall any twitchiness but it was a long time ago, I stopped doing top speed runs after cracking the turbo.

Jun 18th, 2015, 15:59	#5
Cromlech Member Last Online: May 22nd, 2024 08:22 Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Gloucester	In regards to what clutch to use with the TTV flywheel (B230LITE I assume), I used a standard 850R clutch. Was running ~13psi on stock components and it held up more than fine for that. One thing to bear in mind is that it's so quick to spin up and grips so well that all I had to do was stomp on the accelerator pedal (no high rpm clutch dropping) from a standstill and the rear wheels would just spin and spin with ease.

Jun 19th, 2015, 15:26	#6
crogthomas Master Member Last Online: Today 09:19 Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Bracknell, Berkshire, UK	The obvious thing missing from your list is suspension (bushes excepted). Springs, dampers, anti-roll bars, etc. What do you currently have?

Jun 20th, 2015, 13:46	#10
TonyS9 Premier Member Last Online: May 19th, 2024 20:22 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Holywood	A cheaper option is the solid 228mm plate flywheel with sachs performance cover plate. Just fitted this to the 360 turbo, feels easy enough. Not as light as the ttv and still expensive at £280 odd just for the cover.

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