240 GLT saloon restoration project

[Juular]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Sorry to ask what at first will seem like a stupid question but are you sure the front springs shouldn't be on the rear and vice versa?

The back seems very low and the front is definitely much higher than it should be.
It's not unknown for springs to have found their way into boxes labeled "FRONT" when they should be in "REAR" and vice versa. Seen it on other cars with similar results!

As for your starting problems and lack of go, i think that is timing related - when you get a strobe light and set the timing as it should be (run it on super unleaded too for the extra octane) i think your starting and power problems will disappear.
Do you happen to know if you have a Knock sensor? It will be on the left hand side of the block about halfway along if you do and i always call them "banjo-shaped" - most people seem to see the analogy even though it's not strictly a banjo shape.
If you do and the timing is over-advanced, it will cause pre-ignition/pinking/detonation/knocking that you won't actually hear because the EZK ECU (usually above the pedals and should have a vacuum connection to the inlet manifold) will retard the timing to prevent engine damage. This makes it sluggish and thirsty.

On a totally unrelated note and meant in the nicest way - i've heard of owners looking like their dogs and your dad really makes the case for that!
Really great to see and pretty much made my Xmas!

After having the manifold off, I'm almost certain it has neither a knock sensor or a vacuum connection to anything other than the brake servo, ignition advance and PCV.

The springs are definitely fronts - I put them side by side with the old ones that came off the car and they looked identical in length. I'm pretty sure the fronts and rears wouldn't be interchangeable as the diameters are very different. I'm going to give it a week or so and if no change in the ride height I'm going to contact PFS and see what they say.

I did another check over of the engine yesterday. I noticed one of the injectors wasn't seated properly as it won't click into the holder like the rest. Maybe the holder is worn? Anyway I'm pretty confident that area is ok now.

I also threw away the throttle body gasket and used anaerobic sealant to join the throttle to the manifold.

No change in the starting or running yet. There is a small whistle from the engine which I haven't been able to isolate so it's possible there is still a vacuum leak somewhere.

I should be borrowing a timing light soonish.

[Othen]

What a wonderful journey this has been Juular. The best part of all was seeing your dad next to the motor car and obviously as proud as punch about what his boy had achieved in a year. Well done again, I think I would be speaking on behalf of all the correspondents if I said the forum thanks you for sharing your story with us.

Your motor car does look a bit high at the front or low at the back, it should be more like this:

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Juular

The springs are definitely fronts - I put them side by side with the old ones that came off the car and they looked identical in length. I'm pretty sure the fronts and rears wouldn't be interchangeable as the diameters are very different. I'm going to give it a week or so and if no change in the ride height I'm going to contact PFS and see what they say.

...

I should be borrowing a timing light soonish.

If I remember correctly the rear springs have a smaller radius at the bottom like these:



... whereas the fronts are a parallel profile - so you could not have mixed them up during reassembly. It might be a good idea to jack the car up and take some measurements of the springs under no load - one of us can always do the same to provide a reference. That way you would soon work out what wasn't right.

That is sensible about borrowing rather than buying a strobe - you probably won't need it again until you next change the cam belt.

Alan

[Bob Meadows]

Quote:~
"I noticed one of the injectors wasn't seated properly as it won't click into the holder like the rest. Maybe the holder is worn? Anyway I'm pretty confident that area is ok now"
--------------------------------- ~ -------------------------------------

Check the "O" rings first (small thick inner & large dia. outer)
The outer ring can quite easily get distorted as you push it into the holder- lubricate the same and the holder pushing the injector home squarely, the holders are generally fine providing the fastener isn't overtightened.
Regards
Bob.

Great to see you enjoying all that work!

[Juular]

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

I had a mysterious "clunk" on my 240 some time back:~

It turned out to be loose bolts on the wishbone bracket- once tightened it disappeared, could be worth checking (picture shows the culprit/bracket - 3 bolts from memory)

The starting could be the Air admittance valve- should be open when engine is cold and gradually close as engine warms up, pull hose away and flick the valve to see that it is initially free to move (lubricate if needed)
You can test off the car if you wish, battery leads etc.
Regards
Bob.

We have a winner!

Well, very close. It was the bolt inside the bracket holding the rear of the wishbone in place. It just needed another 1/4 turn and the noise is now completely gone.

I did run it up with the impact gun before reassembly but it's probably better to do these things with the weight on the car.

Another problem gone.

[Juular]

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

Quote:~
"I noticed one of the injectors wasn't seated properly as it won't click into the holder like the rest. Maybe the holder is worn? Anyway I'm pretty confident that area is ok now"
--------------------------------- ~ -------------------------------------

Check the "O" rings first (small thick inner & large dia. outer)
The outer ring can quite easily get distorted as you push it into the holder- lubricate the same and the holder pushing the injector home squarely, the holders are generally fine providing the fastener isn't overtightened.
Regards
Bob.

Great to see you enjoying all that work!

The O rings are a new set I put on when overhauling the injectors although will concede that new doesnt mean perfect.

The AAV is working properly, I gave that an overhaul and tested it both with 12v and a heat gun to make sure it opens and closes.

I'm still on the track that I have a vacuum leak. I noticed today that if I start it (again 3rd time lucky) without touching the accelerator, it chugs then hunts between 200rpm and 2000rpm before settling at 900rpm eventually.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Juular

I'm still on the track that I have a vacuum leak. I noticed today that if I start it (again 3rd time lucky) without touching the accelerator, it chugs then hunts between 200rpm and 2000rpm before settling at 900rpm eventually.

With that in mind, a couple of suggestions. First, check-tighten the inlet manifold to head nuts - slacken half a turn and retorque, one at a time.

Next one is a little more complex but will give an idea if it does have a vacuum leak.

On a cold start, just "flick" the starter on the key. By this i mean turn the key to position 3 (start) and release almost immediately. You should hear the fuel pump run for a second or two after now turn the key to position 3 again and it should fire and stay running without the hesitancy.

The way this idea works is that when the key is turned to position 3, the cold start injector opens. By releasing the key before it fires, that extra fuel is left in the inlet manifold to aid the next attempt at starting. With the extra richness, it counters the putative vacuum leak.

If it doesn't work and just floods it, proceed as for a flooded engine. With the key in position 0, floor the accelerator and hold it there. Turn the key to position 3 and hold it there until it fires, gradually releasing the accelerator to avoid over-revving the engine. If it doesn't fire inside 10 seconds, release the key and let the starter rest for about 10 seconds and retry, keeping the loud pedal intimate with the carpet during that starter rest time.

[Juular]

Another step closer.

Set the timing to 10BTDC and it seems to be starting and running much happier. I've heard conflicting information on whether it should be 10 or 12 so I've erred on the side of caution.

Took it out a long drive up the back roads and had a lot of fun with it. It drives very well. In fact, everything works. Maybe I have expectations set way too low, but I really do feel like I've went out and bought a new car.

It also seems to be attracting friends.



What's left? Well painting of course, but that will happen in better weather when I can set up a gazebo or find a dry indoor space.

The main HP fuel pump is quite noisy sometimes. It's normally quiet but occasionally goes into a fit of what I can only describe as loud honking. The fuel delivery rate is above the required amount and the new in-tank pump is working perfectly so I'm not sure what could cause this.

Also, I'd like to run it on 95RON as the price of 98 is very hard to stomach currently. Again, conflicting reports on this, with some people claiming to run unmodified B230Es on 95 for years on end without issue, and others saying if I don't double gasket it I'm guaranteed to damage it.

I guess if it's not pinking then all is good?

Apart from that I'm just going to enjoy it. I'm very happy this car didn't go to the scrapyard. Happy new year folks.

[Laird Scooby]

The Euroblobs are devaluing it!

As for the Reliant Robin behind it, my dogs reaction when she first saw one says it all - looked at it, looked back at me with an expression of horror, looked at it again then back at me with an expression that said "What the fluff is that!!!"

I've typed a longer answer with some useful info about fuel, timing etc but for some reason can't post it, hopefully this posts ok!

[Laird Scooby]

Sorry this one is a bit terse, i can't seem to post all the info so i'll just do a list of facts/figures.

95RON/E10 fuel reduces fuel economy by ~20%, proven fact. Even on Volvos before E10, i've found 95RON reduces the economy on mine.

Timing figure for a 1987/8 B230E is 12degBTDC (10deg is for turbo models)

Running on 98RON will give you more mpg and the extra mpg outweighs the extra cost. Also saves the myth about double-gasketing for the boozer on a sunday afternoon!