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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars

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1964 Amazon 122S restoration project

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Old May 14th, 2024, 13:29   #251
Othen
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Those were fascinating updates, thank you.

Achieving 35MPG was very good indeed, I donít think Iíve ever got better than 30 MPG on a run with Great Aunt Maud.

Alan
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Old May 14th, 2024, 14:09   #252
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Quote:
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Those were fascinating updates, thank you.

Achieving 35MPG was very good indeed, I donít think Iíve ever got better than 30 MPG on a run with Great Aunt Maud.

Alan
The 4.1:1 diff coupled with the overdrive is magic! I also added a bit of pressure to the tyres, and with a lot of forward planning for lane changes etc, stayed off the brakes as much as possible. I've also binned all the mudflaps.

In day to day use (which are still decent runs) I'm seeing between 27 and 29mpg so not far off what you have experienced.

I intend to fit an electric fan and delete the fixed one soon, which hopefully will help too.
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Old May 14th, 2024, 14:30   #253
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I am so glad I have found this thread, I saw this car at rustival and included it in my Youtube video. I love the look and honestly of this car its so dam cool.
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Old May 14th, 2024, 14:54   #254
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The 4.1:1 diff coupled with the overdrive is magic! I also added a bit of pressure to the tyres, and with a lot of forward planning for lane changes etc, stayed off the brakes as much as possible. I've also binned all the mudflaps.

In day to day use (which are still decent runs) I'm seeing between 27 and 29mpg so not far off what you have experienced.

I intend to fit an electric fan and delete the fixed one soon, which hopefully will help too.
I have exactly the same set up in GAM: 4.1:1 rear axle plus a type D overdrive, this time of year I have the standard wheels fitted as well - I agree it is a very good solution. Around town I only get 25 MPG, that goes up to 29 MPG on longer runs. Perhaps I should pump the tyres up a bit?

An electric fan is an interesting idea; I fitted one to the RB (1980 244) a few years ago and it worked very well indeed.



Addendum: Forget what I said in the above about only getting 29 MPG on a run from Aunt Maud; when I checked my own records I found it achieves 33 MPG, so quite comparable to your Amazon Juular:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...postcount=1198

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Old May 15th, 2024, 14:46   #255
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The nice thing about doing long drives is you get a feel for the things you want to improve.

First thing was to improve the door seals as the ones on the car were original, and falling to bits. There was a bit of wind noise on the driver's door and both rear doors.

This was done with generic D profile rubber, put in place with impact adhesive. It works really well and the doors shut with a convincing sound.



I also felt a draught from around the gear shifter, which was easily fixed with some recycled plastic loft insulation.



Next up, rewiring.





There are lots of things about the factory wiring that irk me. The lack of fusing on many circuits, the way that nearly all of the current for the car is passed through the ignition switch, and the way that so many things are daisy chained off the back of the fuel gauge.



I don't know if anyone else has noticed but the ignition switch can get extremely hot with all that current passing through it, which freaks me out. For this reason the plan was to fit a master 100A ignition relay, with the only current draw passing through the ignition switch to be the unfused feed for the coil.

The rest will be fed off two blade fuse boxes, one for permanent live and one for ignition switched live.

Another thing I wanted to do was move the fuses inside the car to reduce the corrosion problem.

Here are the finished fuse boxes.



No longer having to deal with crappy glass or continental fuses is a benefit in my mind, but also having a fusebox which indicates which fuses are blown is extremely helpful. It's also nice to know that losing one circuit isn't going to affect everything else. I also quite like the cleanliness of the engine bay without the fuse box in there.

At the same time I made a number of upgrades.

Hazard switch.



Routing the overdrive and reverse wiring through the shifter hole.



Deleting the brake pressure switch and fitting a later model brake pedal switch. My brake lights were so lazy before doing this that I felt it was a danger.



Replacing the flasher relay with an adjustable one as the indicators are far too slow.



Replacing the floor dip switch with a flasher relay from a VW bus, in this case DNI0127.



Using this the flasher stalk acts as flashers with the lights off, but if you turn the lights on the flasher acts as a full beam toggle switch. Absolutely perfect.

Some extra cosmetic touches. Sanded back, epoxied and painted the somewhat cracked and tired steering column shroud.





Finally, replacing the dash instrument light decals, as they had mostly worn off.



All of these may seem like minor changes but they have transformed how the car feels, just being able to operate the main beam easily and having reliable lights and indicators etc.
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Old May 15th, 2024, 17:36   #256
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That is a really good point about the poor electrical design, and in particular about the very large current passing through the ignition switch. I started to get problems with the switch making good contact, so I fitted a starter relay (and also a Ron Kwas push button switch to take load off the gorilla spring):

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...postcount=1040

It works much better than the original design, and I feel happier knowing there arenít 40 Amps coursing around the cabin.

Your point about the flasher relay is a good one also; I found a solid state replacement that is far more reliable than the original Lucas one:


https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...postcount=1073


Good thread - and some really good ideas for Amazon owners.



Addendum: I like what you have done with the brake light switch - I donít much trust the pressure sensitive switch either.
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Last edited by Othen; May 15th, 2024 at 18:13.
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