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Electrical system

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Old Nov 22nd, 2022, 16:41   #11
Othen
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He is of an older generation. He said the battery is fine but its only getting 10v which means the dynamo or regulator or both are at fault but he doesn't have the facility to test the dynamo. Regulator is brand new so maybe its wired up wrong or a dud.
... the test is just to run the dynamo as an electric motor for a while (see pp 3-11 'BENCH TESTING' of the Volvo green book I sent you a link to). It is pretty simple and doesn't require any special tools or instruments - I think it would be better if you found another mechanic.

The charging regulator is adjustable for cut off voltage and current (see pp 3-14 of the green book). It looks quite simple and just requires a multi-meter. If it were me I'd check it is in adjustment before I assumed it was a dud (this isn't like modern electrics, things don't just work when they are plugged in).

None of this should be difficult for a professional mechanic.

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Last edited by Othen; Nov 22nd, 2022 at 17:52. Reason: Grammar.
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Old Nov 22nd, 2022, 17:06   #12
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You might be right about me finding another mechanic.
I'll try elsewhere.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2022, 00:57   #13
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Hi
why don't you take it all out and fit a alternator
like the 140 series all the parts should come to under 100£ 2 hours work including coffee brake
fit and forget
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Old Nov 23rd, 2022, 13:50   #14
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Hi
why don't you take it all out and fit a alternator
like the 140 series all the parts should come to under 100£ 2 hours work including coffee brake
fit and forget
Very few of the B18 blocks came with the two bolt holes for the alternator bracket. These came with the 123GT which got the alternator but other 1967 engines kept the dynamo even though they had the 2 hole block. No holes means that you either buy the brackets or kit for the alternator swap if you can't make your own. Using a small Denso alternator makes fitting in the dynamo position relatively easy as they are much smaller than the Volvo/Bosch ones. They also have a built in regulator which simplifies things further.
All B20 blocks came with the 2 holes for the alternator bracket but I think this car has an earlier B18 which won't.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2022, 15:27   #15
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Mine is a b18 engine. I would probably fit an alternator if I could but I am very limited mechanically and my aim at the minute is just to be able to drive it. I can swap over a dynamo as it looks pretty easy and a secondhand unit is relatively cheap. That would seem to be the cheapest and simplest way for me to get to a driving car.
Thanks
Joe
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Old Nov 23rd, 2022, 15:35   #16
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Have you confirmed it is the dynamo that is at fault?.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2022, 16:12   #17
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Not yet. Dont have the ability too but the regulator is brand new so highly likely. Having said that it is worth taking it somewhere to test it before buying.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2022, 19:01   #18
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Any alternator repair shop would be able to check the dynamo for functionality. There are ways to check the dynamo for voltage and current output by bypassing the regulator. Google bosch dynamo testing. Assuming yours is the bosch G14 generator. Also a word of warning regarding new components. Never assume a component works because it is new, I have come across, bulbs, relays, sensors etc that did not work out of the box despite its "newness". It pays to be methodical with diagnostics otherwise you will end up with swapnostics and replacing parts that may have not failed.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2022, 19:05   #19
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Also if you are going to change the dynamo, go with an alternator as a replacement to future proof your charging system. You will appreciate an alternator when you are driving with the lights, wipers and heater on at the same time.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2022, 23:27   #20
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B18 Dynamo = Bosch 101 302 027 14v 30A25
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