Amazon: 1963 - Rolling restoration

[Derek UK]

Originally Posted by volvogv

Derek,

Are you saying that despite the needle being withdrawn from jet, the reduced venturi from the lifted piston is pulling less fuel until the air velocity increases? Sorry.....We engineers need to understand how everything works!

Yes that's about it. Seems counter intuitive but if you open the butterflies quickly and the piston goes straight up the airspeed across the bridge, the part the jet is centred, is quite slow, as the engine hasn't had time to increase its rpm and therefore the rate of suck. Although the jet size will increase a lot if the piston goes up quickly, the rate that fuel is sucked out related to the air speed across it. If you are gentle with the throttle and just need a little increase in speed, in town traffic for example, the effect isn't so obvious. The rise of the piston relies on the increase in vacuum. The piston and dome are precision matched to give just enough clearance for them to rise properly. With twin carbs both of the carbs should have a similar rise time. If you're refurbing a pair and both are in bits on the bench, don't mix up the pairing. Absolutely no abrasive cleaning of the inside of the dashpot or the ribbed outer of the piston. A wipe with carb cleaner or clean gas is about as far as you can go. Any abrasive will reduce the vacuum.
Put "John Twist SU Carbs" into You Tube for some straight forward information.
e.g. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IfU47Oqq9wA

Check out his other SU videos as well. His older videos, like this one, have the quality of their time and recent ones are much better, perhaps he needs to redo them when he has time. Enjoy.

[volvogv]

My car reeks with exhaust fumes so after driving with the windows down for 2 months it was time to do something about it. The trunk seal was extremely deteriorated and had moss growing on it. The new seal looks great and the cabin air quality is so much better now. The trunk no longer closes with a bang. Exhaust fumes were being sucked back through the trunk and into the cabin. Before I fixed this, I had to roll down the window, count to 5 and roll it up again. I'd get just enough fresh air to breathe. Any longer than that would just suck more exhaust fumes. In the following pictures you can see the original seal followed by the process of installing the new one, and my trusty assistant posing for a victory shot.

[Derek UK]

The smokey stains around the filler cap area might indicate that your tail pie end is tucked up too far under the bumper corner. Acidy fumes can even rot out the bumper from the back. If so try and drop it down a bit and maybe put a short length of extra pipe on just to clear the bumper. I think this might be why you've had the fumes in the boot problem, made worse by the poor seal.

[volvogv]

Good eye, Derek. Yes the pipe is somewhat recessed from the bumper and it leaves residue. Since we're talking about it, I was wondering about the pipe size. The tail pipe measures 1-1/4 inches outside diameter. This seems a bit small to me. Do you know what size it should be?

Also there is a small can at the rear of the exhaust pipe under the trunk. Do you know what that is?

[Derek UK]

The size of the rear exhaust section is indeed small. Not a bad thing technically, as it helps to keep the gas speed up, as it slows down as it cools. Also helps for a nice quiet sound and gets rid of the rasp/fart you get without it. The small pot is either a rounded at each end one or just a miniature flat ended one. Rounded ones are original Volvo but you don't see them very often now. A small hole, 1/8" max, can be usefully drilled at the lowest part at the rear of this pot to drain away the condensation. When doing short runs the rear of the exhaust rarely gets hot enough to boil it off. That's why the rear of an exhaust always fails before the front. Anyone in the UK who drills this hole can put a self tapper in it for the MOT if they have a VERY fussy tester............

[volvogv]

My car's tail lights have been strange ever since I bought the car and as I mentioned in an earlier post, traced the wiring and found it had been "creatively rewired".

I did some detective work and found the original supplier of the Volvo connector blocks and pins. I bought a few and spent a morning replacing the old blocks and pins with new ones, at the same time rewiring it back to factory specs. The factory blocks were black but the connector manufacturer discontinued all colors except for white

All of the lights glow at the right times now except for two things. The turn signal wire on the right side socket broke right at the crimp, and the reverse gear light doesn't get power when the tranny is shifted. I have another socket assembly on the way so I should be able to make a good set between the two. I'll crawl under the care one of these days and check the reverse switch. This car is 50 years old and has some bugs in the electrics.

[tdz840]

What is this small pot on the rear of the exhaust?

Is it common to the 1800?

Would it be possible to post sone pics?

Thanks in advance

Russ

[Derek UK]

No, the 1800 system is completely different and uses a smallish front silencer and a larger rear one right at the end of the system. Check pics on Brookhouse for clarification.

[c1800]

"I did some detective work and found the original supplier of the Volvo connector blocks and pins. I bought a few and spent a morning replacing the old blocks and pins with new ones, at the same time rewiring it back to factory specs. The factory blocks were black but the connector manufacturer discontinued all colors except for white"

Where did you get the connectors?

thanks

[volvogv]

Originally Posted by c1800

"I did some detective work and found the original supplier of the Volvo connector blocks and pins. I bought a few and spent a morning replacing the old blocks and pins with new ones, at the same time rewiring it back to factory specs. The factory blocks were black but the connector manufacturer discontinued all colors except for white"

Where did you get the connectors?

thanks

Glad to help.....
They are available at http://digikey.com

Part #:A27932-ND (tab housing)
Part #:A27923CT-ND (pin blade)

and

Part #:A27931-ND (Receptacle housing)
Part #:A27936CT-ND (pin socket)

You will need a AMP pin crimping tool, and buy extra pins in case you make a bad crimp.