1800: Wheel Alignment

[PaulWphoto]

Hi all

Does anyone know of a diy guide to measuring my front suspension geometry?

I rebuilt the entire front end and although i put the shims back where i found them the steering doesnt feel right.

The wheels dont self-centre when i release the steering wheel at any speed and the whole set up feels a bit too heavy

when i jack the car up the steering feels ok so i dont think its a problem with steering box/coupling etc.

[ClassicVolvoShop]

Again (and my tone is NOT to offend!) - I direct you (all) to the manuals from Volvo themselfes:

Front end and steering gear manual

- Here's a simple check and allignment procedure.. May get your car close - but I would still strongly recommend you to have it done right and pro.

[PaulWphoto]

Thanks for that - I have the full set of manuals for my car but while they give the correct spec they do not give a simple technique for measuring the castor/camber/toe in etc

I do not have turntables or any specialist equipment but i wondered if there was a way of measuring with something like a spirit level and a steel rule.

I would like to get the set up fairly close - observe any improvements and then get the car checked by someone with the correct equipment - obviously as this is quite expensive i dont want to do it too many times

[ClassicVolvoShop]

I don't see that it would get your pro. adjustment cheaper - the closer to correct you can get it yourself before going to a shop?..

Either you take the bull by the horn and go get it done correct or you lign up 2x2's (and other homemade instruments) on the pavement/driveway and figure out the alignment and angles yourself?..

Basics are not difficult - but a lot of work! - The pro's have the tools that makes it an easy job - that's the difference.

[PaulWphoto]

you are right of course. i have done all the work to rebuild the car myself and i guess it annoys me a little that i have come up against a problem that i cant deal with myself.

I thought that it would be a good idea to try to check myself in case i need shims etc then i would have time to order them before final adjustment.

[ClassicVolvoShop]

I do understand that if one has set out for a 100% complete DIY job, it can be a challange with a few of the special-jobs - like wheel alignment - but on the other hand I don't see any respect lost if one choses to get things like wheel adjustment done by pro's. It's a matter of safety (self-centre), steering and tyre economy.

On the other hand - doing a wheel adjustment on the pavement will most surely entertain not only the neighbours, but probably the hole street! and will be a good fun memory to have! (no irony there!).

What I'm just debating is, that there's no easy way arround it - it's follow the manual and finding some of the old school books on geometry!

[Derek UK]

If you're 101% sure you've put the shims back correctly the only adjustment that you'd normally make is to the toe in/out. You may have had that done, but did they do it right? Some garages offer free alignment checks and if they're not busy you might get away with getting in done that way, with a small tip of course. Think of it as a second opinion. You say it's "free/loose when you have it jacked up. Is that with axle stands under the front A arms? Will it spin easily from the end of one lock to another? How stiff is it, say 1/2 of a turn each side of centre? Did you replace the idler bush? These can be a bit unpredictable as far as stiffness goes. Have you tried loosening the steering box adjuster? Are ALL of the joints new?
Lots of questions. I'd check by hand, each rod end, to see if it has a bit of rocking movement in it. Not play, but you should be able to move them a little by hand. Not so easy to check the top and bottom, outer A arm joints though.
Perhaps we could have a bit more info from you please?

[asneddon]

Originally Posted by PaulWphoto

- obviously as this is quite expensive i dont want to do it too many times

It cost me £28 to get a 4 wheel alignment after fitting new steering box and bushes. It wouldn't occur to me to NOT get that sorted out by someone with the correct tools. I used ATS, but I would have thought most of the big chains will be about the same price.

[PaulWphoto]

Thanks all for your posts so far...

Today I found a local specialist who was able to measure everything for me. They couldn't find the spec for the p1800 on their laser computer thingy so we used the profile for the 122 - I assume that this was the correct thing to do? They altered the toe in to 0° 13' a side and things have improved somewhat.

Now I have read the manual to try to find out the correct way to adjust the camber and castor i am very confused.

The current figures are as follows:

LEFT FRONT
-1°26' Camber
0°44' Castor
0°13' Toe

RIGHT FRONT
-0°04 Camber
-1°26' Castor
0°13' Toe

Does anyone have an idea which shims i should add/remove and where? (Front under body or Top Wishbone front/back bolt)

Any clues much appreciated

Paul W

[Derek UK]

I don't think any of those figures look too far out from the Green Book linked to above (I don't know what manual you have). Have a read of that. Usually, major differences only appear when you change the front cross member for another and/or don't put the shims there back in the right place. If that hasn't been moved I think that you should just need to adjust the top inner wishbone shims. Might need to get a few different thickness ones to get it absolutely right but again if your man knows what he's doing he should be able to find something suitable. NB: The order of adjusting is Caster/Camber/Toe out/Toe in.
The Green Book is dated 1964, that was early days for radial tyres, and gives figures that differ a bit from modern standards.
Have a read of this article. I don't think you'll go too far wrong if you use the settings advised there.
http://www.vclassics.com/archive/align.htm