Suspension: wishbone rear bush

[laszlo]

I've replaced the driver's side wishbone rear bush yesterday because there has been some clonking at the front since a while and also slight trembling during braking. Sure enough, the inner metal sleeve separated from the rubber and rosted to the wishbone shaft thus I had to remove the whishbone to cut away the sleeve with a Dremel. After all everything went fine, as per Clifford' warning I was a bit afraid of the bracket screws but they came out easily however the rear bush locking nut was a good two hours fight. The car is back on the ground now but torquing the whisbone nuts left undone. There is sufficient clearance to torque the front nut to spec but I see no chance to use my wrench on the rear nut sitting inside the bracket. My torque wrench is rather big, ca. 40 cm long and the head is also bulky. Wondering if anyone could suggest a workaround or point me to the right tool.
Thanks,

Laszlo

[Clan]

the knack here is to take out the 3 bolts which hold the bracket to the floor and pull the wishbone down which will give enough clearance to get a socket with torque wrench and extension bar in ...

[laszlo]

Thanks Clan, but Volvo's Green book on front susp & Haynes says that torquing should be done everything in place and wheels on the ground to load wishbone that it will take up normal position. Dropping the bracket and folding down wishbone creates a different situation.

[Clan]

yes of course but depends how you do it , you have to pre adapt the tighening to allow for this if you have a flat bed lift just make sure the plate is aligned to fit the holes in the floor , If you have the suspension hanging down , angle the plate a bit to compensate so that when the arm is in its operating condition the plate will fit to the floor perfectly .. there isnt really another way to do it .. I've done probably several hundred like this , more come to think of it when i consider both sides ...

[Clifford Pope]

I must confess I've always just used an angled ring spanner and guessed the torque.

[laszlo]

Thanks for all your input. I will roll to the nearby gas station where I can rent a rail lift and might try to implement Clan's method. However, I have a great sympathy to Clifford's approach, I guess torqueing capacity of a simple ring spanner ends somwhere around 50-60 Nm but I might be wrong on this and will test on a bolt of the same size with a torque wrench. Other possible workaround coming into my mind is an extension made up from a boxed end spanner. If the extension is in right angle with the wrench then the torque applied to the nut is identical with that set on the wrench, as per internet wisdom. Your opinion??