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Any Advice, Part 2!

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Old Aug 16th, 2020, 08:16   #21
Othen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris152 View Post
Point taken, Alan - tbh I think I've watched enough videos and read enough to be able to do it without the manual, so long as all is as its supposed to be. Doesn't stop me doubting myself tho.
No problen Chris,

Once you and your son have done it once you will wonder what all the fuss was about.

Here is a photo I found of the camshaft timing mark - as long as this one aligns the motor must be at TDC on #1:



... and here is the one on the auxiliary shaft, fiendishly difficult to see and make sure it is right - if you get a belt with the timing marks printed on it that makes things much easier.



Here is one of the cam seal you asked about earlier, you have to take the cam sprocket off to access (otherwise easy enough), so I'd suggest not bothering to change it unless it is leaking):



... if you bother with the seal you might as well pull the cam cover off (it might well be leaking a bit anyway, so get replacement gasket - only a few pounds) and check the valve clearances. Checking is a simple job and only takes half an hour. Make a note of the clearances so you can decide whether to do anything about any that are out of tolerance.

Good fortune,

Alan
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Old Aug 16th, 2020, 11:44   #22
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Probably a good idea to change the radiator and all coolant hoses if not already been replaced. I fitted a Nissens brand in my 1989 240 GLT Estate. Perfect fit and no issues.

James
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Old Aug 16th, 2020, 12:14   #23
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I don't know your requirements as to buying and keeping the car. Have you established the full truth so far as reasonably possible as to the bodywork and the extent and cost of rust? Is this a saloon or estate? The estates are seriously prone to a little rust up under the rear bumper that actually goes deep in the car and does not usually show up on MOT. ALWAYS consider the body before spending much on the mechanics.

If you are sure enough re the body. Loki has summed up the position clearly and fully re the cambelt.

I could add a bit to his advice, from my less knowledgeable and little experience.

And if you do take the excellent opportunity to check the cooling system, I would at least check the hoses and thermostat, and change the pesky little heater hoses.

There are a host of other things. Start with the cheap things. Lubricate the belt adjusters, lubricate the bonnet hinges (they seize .... ), lubricate the exhaust manifold studs, lubricate the headlight securing nuts .... for those nuts, regular penetrating oil.

Start small would seem to be right for your main objective. Excellent introduction to car maintenance for your son. Maybe find out how interested he really is in your project. Don't spend too much before your son's interest is, tested.

And and and. Don't spend much until the body situation is really known, and until time has shown up any latent or hidden mechanical problems.

Enjoy.


.

Last edited by Stephen Edwin; Aug 16th, 2020 at 12:20.
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Old Aug 17th, 2020, 08:08   #24
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Thank you, everyone, that’s really helpful. Too many replies for me to respond to individually, but I’ve been through the recommendations and tried to put them into a list so we can work through it:

While doing timing belt, check the water pump and seals on the cam and auxiliary shafts;
Check dates for oil and coolant changes, and possibly spark plugs and air filter as well. Brake pads – check;
Check brake fluid water contamination;
Check the engine and gearbox mounts;
Clear the sills out;
Carefully clean the calipers out and push each of the pistons back a bit to check they aren’t seized;
Check the brake piston dust seals are in good condition (consider a brake piston spreader) and the flexible hoses are in good condition with no cracks or bulges (throughout the car, I guess);
Check condition of radiator to see if it needs replacing;
Lubricate the belt adjusters, lubricate the bonnet hinges, lubricate the exhaust manifold studs, lubricate the headlight securing nuts.

We’re also going to give the car a good clean underneath once we’ve got the belt done so we can see what state it’s in there, and hopefully get any welding done soon – we both would like to learn to weld but it’s a question of space and not really knowing what we’re doing! I did some oxy-acetylene when I was a student and before leaving the day job a couple of years ago, a colleague kindly gave me a lesson with MIG, but I really don’t feel competent.

Ironically, the more the car needs doing (so long as it generally stays on the road safely, and the work is manageable), the better – all the work will be documented as part of the learning process. At least, that’s how I justify the time and money this is going to take!

Thanks

C

ps Is this a suitable kit for getting under the car?
https://www.halfords.com/tools/garag...it-657230.html

Last edited by Chris152; Aug 17th, 2020 at 08:15.
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Old Aug 17th, 2020, 08:49   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris152 View Post
Thank you, everyone, that’s really helpful. Too many replies for me to respond to individually, but I’ve been through the recommendations and tried to put them into a list so we can work through it:

While doing timing belt, check the water pump and seals on the cam and auxiliary shafts;
Check dates for oil and coolant changes, and possibly spark plugs and air filter as well. Brake pads – check;
Check brake fluid water contamination;
Check the engine and gearbox mounts;
Clear the sills out;
Carefully clean the calipers out and push each of the pistons back a bit to check they aren’t seized;
Check the brake piston dust seals are in good condition (consider a brake piston spreader) and the flexible hoses are in good condition with no cracks or bulges (throughout the car, I guess);
Check condition of radiator to see if it needs replacing;
Lubricate the belt adjusters, lubricate the bonnet hinges, lubricate the exhaust manifold studs, lubricate the headlight securing nuts.

We’re also going to give the car a good clean underneath once we’ve got the belt done so we can see what state it’s in there, and hopefully get any welding done soon – we both would like to learn to weld but it’s a question of space and not really knowing what we’re doing! I did some oxy-acetylene when I was a student and before leaving the day job a couple of years ago, a colleague kindly gave me a lesson with MIG, but I really don’t feel competent.

Ironically, the more the car needs doing (so long as it generally stays on the road safely, and the work is manageable), the better – all the work will be documented as part of the learning process. At least, that’s how I justify the time and money this is going to take!

Thanks

C

ps Is this a suitable kit for getting under the car?
https://www.halfords.com/tools/garag...it-657230.html
Hi Chris,

I bet you wish you had not asked the question now! Not all of it will need doing, but there again you will find lots of other things that do as you delve into the car.

The need for welding bit worries me, if you haven't had a look at it yet the chances are you will find lots more rust under the tip of the iceberg. Welding tends to be expensive if you get someone else to do it.

The Halfords stuff looks okay - you will need the jack and the axle stands. You will find life much easier if you get some of these ramps:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-OF-2...Cclp%3A2334524

... get the type with the extensions, otherwise they will keep moving backwards when you try to drive up them.

Good fortune,

Alan
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Old Aug 17th, 2020, 10:40   #26
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The Halfords kit looks ok, but you can do better- axle stands that ratchet up are an easier to use design, that jack will only lift the car a limited amount and the creeper board you probably won’t end up using that much- both because the jack won’t lift the car very high and also because you’ll need a big smooth drive/garage floor to use it on.

I used axle stands and a jack like that for years - I have ratchet stands and a long reach/high lift jack now- wish I’d bought them much earlier!

I found my jack on eBay, but I was about to buy the same one new from sgs- check out their website. The ratchet stands are sold in various places.

Cheers
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Old Aug 17th, 2020, 12:40   #27
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For welding I highly recommend doing a course, rather than just buying the equipment and seeing how you get on. There are various evening/weekend courses available through colleges etc. I did a 5 day intensive course a couple of years back and that was enough to get me started.

Also, welding equipment can be rented, to avoid the upfront cost.

Cheers
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Old Aug 17th, 2020, 12:49   #28
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Chris.

Following on .... perhaps I under stated my concern.

Significant rust has been disclosed. Not MOT failed but four areas I think. And where else is there rust? e.g. Invading stealthily from under the rear bumper if it is an estate?

Please get the body thoroughly checked for corrosion. Before spending more than a few squirts of oil.

P.S. Even Czar Othen is worried now about the need for welding ...

Enjoy.



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Last edited by Stephen Edwin; Aug 17th, 2020 at 13:11.
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Old Aug 17th, 2020, 15:40   #29
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Thanks for the replies. On the rust question, I did get under the car and have a poke around, the only clear issues were the outriggers under the the floor panels, toward the sills, as far as I could see. I think for someone like me it's always going to be a gamble unless I get someone else to check it over, but we're too close to delivery now (tomorrow or Wednesday), so I'll have to keep my fingers crossed. Oh dear... :-)

I've ordered the ramps you linked to, Alan, and will leave under-car access at that for the moment. I can see how the trolley thing could get little used, and in the way a lot! And if I get stands, I'll definitely go for ratchet ones, not much more expensive.

Welding. Hmmm. Maybe I should go on a course and teach the lad what I've learned - or maybe I could persuade my ex-colleague to come here and teach us. I wouldn't want to start on the outriggers but if we have a go on easier bits we could build up to trickier things? What's the best type of welder for car work? We'd have to do it outside so I guess MIG is out of the question?

C
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Old Aug 17th, 2020, 18:17   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris152 View Post
Thanks for the replies. On the rust question, I did get under the car and have a poke around, the only clear issues were the outriggers under the the floor panels, toward the sills, as far as I could see. I think for someone like me it's always going to be a gamble unless I get someone else to check it over, but we're too close to delivery now (tomorrow or Wednesday), so I'll have to keep my fingers crossed. Oh dear... :-)

I've ordered the ramps you linked to, Alan, and will leave under-car access at that for the moment. I can see how the trolley thing could get little used, and in the way a lot! And if I get stands, I'll definitely go for ratchet ones, not much more expensive.

Welding. Hmmm. Maybe I should go on a course and teach the lad what I've learned - or maybe I could persuade my ex-colleague to come here and teach us. I wouldn't want to start on the outriggers but if we have a go on easier bits we could build up to trickier things? What's the best type of welder for car work? We'd have to do it outside so I guess MIG is out of the question?

C
You are right Chris: an older car is always a bit of a gamble and you have to take the plunge somewhere; you could have easily spent a great deal more on a very smart looking car that had been cleverly bodged with lots of filler and paint. It sounds like you have bought an honest car that needs a bit of love. It may need some welding - the ramps are pretty good at giving you enough clearance to get underneath and have a look. It passed a MoT test this year though, so that is a good thing.

My only concern (for you and your boy) is that if the car needs a lot of welding to make it good and you pay someone to do it then it could get expensive. The materials are pretty cheap but often there is a lot of labour and inevitably a bit of redecorating to make everything look nice again. There is no point worrying about that now though, you have bought the car and it is on its way. Have a good poke around underneath, in the wheel arches, the spare tyre well and the tailgate (if it is an estate). Don't get too dismayed it there is some rust, or (perhaps worse) if you find a lot of filler - just take your time and fix it properly, if you bodge it the problem will come back with a vengeance before you know it.

Welding: if you were going to do it yourself then only MIG welding is really practical. Unless you are very good indeed then the metal in the bodywork is too thin for arc welding, and gas welding would be a huge problem for storage. A small MIG welder like mine (Clarke I think) runs from a 13A plug (it comes with one fitted, don't buy anything that doesn't have a 13A plug fitted from new unless you want to spend a lot on a dedicated 20A feed to your garage). That means it can be run from a 13A extension outside, but it should be a hefty one for the garage and be completely uncoiled during use.

MIG welding steel is not such a difficult skill to pick up. If you decide to go that way get your mate to come round for an afternoon, ply him with tea and biscuits and by the end of the day you will be able to do tack, seam and plug welds (that is as much as you will need). Get yourself a bucketful of scrap steel and practice a bit.

If you aren't keen on that and if the car does need a bit of welding you could probably find a mobile welder chap that would come to your house and work out of his van on your drive. You could save most of the cost by having the car jacked up ready, removing stuff (carpets, wheels, bits of suspension etc), cutting any rust back to shiny metal (angle grinder, file and wire brush), scraping off any underseal, old filler and paint and perhaps even cutting out the repair panels ready. That way you might just have to pay for the actual welding, rather than all the preparation that takes so long. You could do the making good yourself as well (putting back together and redecorating). If you have room at your house that would be a lot cheaper than driving the car to a workshop and having all the preparation, welding and making good done there.

Good fortune, post some photos for us to see when the car arrives and throughout the work. I think you and your son are in for a fun time - I have really enjoyed the Royal Barge project and it will be really satisfying when it is done (well, older cars are never done...).

Alan

Last edited by Othen; Aug 17th, 2020 at 18:22. Reason: Grammar.
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