240 GLT saloon restoration project

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Juular

The piston seals were rock hard and the pistons would not come out with any amount of compressed air. I had to resort to a grease gun.



The problem is once one side falls out, you no longer have a seal to pass the pressure to the opposing piston. So I had to make a tool to hold one piston on the cusp of the seal and provide space for the opposite one to push out.



I then had to blast a pressure washer jet through each port and through the caliper bridge to push all the grease out. Then the calipers soaked in hot degreaser to remove the remnants.

A bath in paint stripper is next.



After which the seals, boots, bleeders will be replaced and a coat of high temperature paint.

... I liked this method as well.

This is a really good thread.

Alan

[Juular]

Thanks! Glad it's of interest to some.

One minor addition to the work so far, I have bought these ARB bushes which despite having the correct diameter are of the wrong shape. The standard D shape ones I need don't seem to be commonly available except as £polyurethane.



Has anyone ever trimmed down bushes before? Perhaps using a hacksaw? I reckon as long as I get the size correct they will fit nicely.

[Bugjam1999]

Excellent progress- thanks for posting the photos and write up.

Yes, copper lines for the brakes are standard.

Volvo/Brookhouse Volvo and others have new octopus units, they contain a shuttle switch inside that usually sits centrally but then moves to one side and sets off the brake failure light on the dash if a difference in pressure in the brake circuits is present. With the brakes in pieces already I’d be inclined to replace it, especially as that shuttle can stick on one side meaning the brake failure light is permanently on (if that matters to you) but if you can get it clean enough perhaps it could be reused. Note they can also leak though the plastic housing for the shuttle, so check for that if you’re going to reuse it.

Good work on the calipers- I’ll remember that approach for removing a stuck nipple or bolt, very useful.

I used a bench grinder to trim down a set of anti-roll bar bushes which worked well. If you don’t have a beach grinder, an angle grinder clamped on a vice with a grinding (not cutting) disc would make a good rudimentary alternative.

Cheers

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Juular

Thanks! Glad it's of interest to some.

One minor addition to the work so far, I have bought these ARB bushes which despite having the correct diameter are of the wrong shape. The standard D shape ones I need don't seem to be commonly available except as £polyurethane.



Has anyone ever trimmed down bushes before? Perhaps using a hacksaw? I reckon as long as I get the size correct they will fit nicely.

It's of interest to quite a lot of us, even if we don't always comment!

With your ARB bushes, what size is the bar and what width/top diameter is it on the curved end of the bush? I had to investigate alternative bushes for another of my beasts a few years ago and found several possibilities (mostly VAG vehicles) that could potentially be useful for you all in rubber. Polyurethane does last longer than rubber though and tends to be a little harder (although you can get softer compounds which replicate rubber more exactly) so PU bushes might be a good move - all depends exactly what you're going for though.

[Clifford Pope]

Originally Posted by Juular

The problem is once one side falls out, you no longer have a seal to pass the pressure to the opposing piston.

I've always managed to free up seized pistons by doing so while still on the car.
I use two techniques:

1) is to replace the pads with a pair of old very worn ones, and then press hard on the pedal. The pistons then cannot come out, but in my experience always move a bit.

2) Lever the pistons in again using the splayed end of a crow bar. If this fails, undo and hook the caliper to one side, remove the disk, then refit the caliper. Hammer in a wedge between the two facing pistons.

Then reassemble, and repeat stages 1 and 2, gradually working the pistons in and out until full movement is restored. Lubricate with brake fluid.
It may take a dozen goes, but I have never yet failed to free up seized pistons eventually.
When one day it proves impossible I'll chuck out the caliper and select another from my stock of dismantled ones.

[Juular]

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

I've always managed to free up seized pistons by doing so while still on the car.
I use two techniques:

1) is to replace the pads with a pair of old very worn ones, and then press hard on the pedal. The pistons then cannot come out, but in my experience always move a bit.

2) Lever the pistons in again using the splayed end of a crow bar. If this fails, undo and hook the caliper to one side, remove the disk, then refit the caliper. Hammer in a wedge between the two facing pistons.

Then reassemble, and repeat stages 1 and 2, gradually working the pistons in and out until full movement is restored. Lubricate with brake fluid.
It may take a dozen goes, but I have never yet failed to free up seized pistons eventually.
When one day it proves impossible I'll chuck out the caliper and select another from my stock of dismantled ones.

That would be the smart way to do it! I must admit I was in such a hurry to dismantle the front that it never crossed my mind to use the cars own hydraulics to do the job.

[Juular]

Originally Posted by Bugjam1999

Excellent progress- thanks for posting the photos and write up.

Yes, copper lines for the brakes are standard.

Volvo/Brookhouse Volvo and others have new octopus units, they contain a shuttle switch inside that usually sits centrally but then moves to one side and sets off the brake failure light on the dash if a difference in pressure in the brake circuits is present. With the brakes in pieces already I’d be inclined to replace it, especially as that shuttle can stick on one side meaning the brake failure light is permanently on (if that matters to you) but if you can get it clean enough perhaps it could be reused. Note they can also leak though the plastic housing for the shuttle, so check for that if you’re going to reuse it.

Good work on the calipers- I’ll remember that approach for removing a stuck nipple or bolt, very useful.

I used a bench grinder to trim down a set of anti-roll bar bushes which worked well. If you don’t have a beach grinder, an angle grinder clamped on a vice with a grinding (not cutting) disc would make a good rudimentary alternative.

Cheers

Bench grinder, good idea. The bushes cost me a total of £4 so I have nothing to lose there.

Looking into the octopus, the internals look very simple. The big question is sourcing those o-rings which could be a fun job.



I may give it an external clean but otherwise leave well alone, unless I notice a problem.

[Juular]

A little more work completed.

Most removed parts received a clean and paint.









The epoxy mastic is not behaving as it should. I'm led to believe this is tenacious stuff that will set rock hard on any surface and needs a grinder to be removed. In my case, that isn't happening.



I think the tin I have might be bad..

It turns out that a power file / mini belt sander is the ideal tool to reshape rubber bushes.



I then set to work dealing with this part of the chassis leg where the crossmember attaches.



Which should look like this..



Thankfully that is just an outer skin, and underneath is still in great condition.



So a replacement section is welded in.



Folded over.



And the outer skin inside the wheel well is plug-welded to that.



I found a couple of pin holes on the chassis leg which initially made me a bit miserable..



However, using the inspection holes in the footwells I could see right down the chassis legs. They are very clean and solid, and there's nothing to worry about at all. It looks like water/mud gets trapped under the wishbone rear mount / jacking point and eats away at a single point. The rust is very small and focused.

So, I'm quite happy just filling those small holes with a bit of weld.



In a moment of madness I went a bit crazy with a screwdriver. I never noticed how apt the bit of cardboard template is, until after I took the photo.



Still a lot of work to do.

[Juular]

Brakes done at last. New seals, boots and bleed nipples.

[Juular]

Progress update..



Fabricated another outrigger for the offside.



Started smoothing out the passenger A pillar.



Filler



Getting there



Thought I'd tackle this as it's been giving me horrible feelings in the pit of my stomach























I Made up some rust eater from citric acid and corn starch.





Left overnight, it eats the rust out of the pits.







Smoothing out



And ready for a new windscreen. Does anyone know a good fitter in central Scotland?