Question about exhaust manifold

[SalvadorP]

I have a leak on the exhaust manifold and am considering shopping around for a used one so the swap can be made same day and the car isn't unavailable for several days. Instead of taking mine out and fixing it.

Which manifolds/engines would fit?

[Mertz]

Finding one that isn't cracked is the challenge, and if it's not cracked now, it will be soon. Find a spare one and have it welded up.

[SalvadorP]

Originally Posted by Mertz

Finding one that isn't cracked is the challenge, and if it's not cracked now, it will be soon. Find a spare one and have it welded up.

Yes, that's my idea. Maybe I wasn't clear in my post. I'm gonna have it welded either way.

[Bob Meadows]

Welding cast iron is fraught with difficulties & high costs:~
Not many companies that can do a decent job doesn't help.

An alternative is to have it brazed- easier to find a company that will do this with a positive result.
Bob.

[Mertz]

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

Welding cast iron is fraught with difficulties & high costs:~
Not many companies that can do a decent job doesn't help.

An alternative is to have it brazed- easier to find a company that will do this with a positive result.
Bob.

Nikel rod and some preheat isn't that difficult. Had my last one welded for £40.

[SalvadorP]

Originally Posted by Mertz

Nikel rod and some preheat isn't that difficult. Had my last one welded for £40.

I'm niot going to argue with Bob, because I don't know anything about welding. But googling, I found some results that say blazing isn't the best option. Particularly this post where, what seemed to be the most knowledgeable guy in the conversation, claims that gas welding is the best option. Some other user says they learned in school blazing was not a good option for areas which heat up too much and with big variations of temp/many temp cycles.
https://forums.yesterdaystractors.co...ifold.1120305/

[TonyS9]

You can weld the 940 manifold fairly easily, if its genuine Volvo the material is high quality, maybe steel.

I've done 2 with no issues.

Grind out cracks

Preheat in oven to 250C

Weld on low power, Mig, I used standard steel and CO2.

Put back in oven, leave for 20 mins to stabilise then switch off and leave to cool for an hour or so.

The oven bit might not even be needed, I actually used sand blasting sand to slow the cooling.

[SalvadorP]

Originally Posted by TonyS9

You can weld the 940 manifold fairly easily, if its genuine Volvo the material is high quality, maybe steel.

I've done 2 with no issues.

Grind out cracks

Preheat in oven to 250C

Weld on low power, Mig, I used standard steel and CO2.

Put back in oven, leave for 20 mins to stabilise then switch off and leave to cool for an hour or so.

The oven bit might not even be needed, I actually used sand blasting sand to slow the cooling.

My mechanic friend does tig welding. But he mentioned some other place I also know that probably would do a fine job. I might just take mine off and weld it. I can't seem to find a replacement online. Even if I do, I'm not going to pay 150€ for a manifold and then having to weld it still, just to be able to do a one day swap.

I did however find a brand new stainless steel manifold with T3 flange for turbo conversions. 350€ I think it was.

[Forrest]

You can still buy a replacement new from Volvo. However, the cheapest I've found it online is €576.80. Skandix is a lot more. I also seem to recall a relatively recent thread highlighting that the casting on recent parts is not very good. Part number 3514440 should you want to investigate this route. Personally, I think you could fund an excellent welding job for a lot less.

[SalvadorP]

Originally Posted by Forrest

You can still buy a replacement new from Volvo. However, the cheapest I've found it online is €576.80. Skandix is a lot more. I also seem to recall a relatively recent thread highlighting that the casting on recent parts is not very good. Part number 3514440 should you want to investigate this route. Personally, I think you could fund an excellent welding job for a lot less.

Thx Forrest. I know the part number and I know who sells it for that price It's Skandcar, at classic-volvo.com
Skandix is almost 900€. Everytime my partner looks at my screen when I'm on Skandix she shouts I "need to get rid of the Volvo!" The Skandix tax is real.

This is the guys I was mentioning that make them new in stainless with a T3 flange: https://www.tatechnix.de/tatechnix/g...ml?language=en

I'm just gonna remove it and have it welded. And remove the rad and have it fixed and replaced since the car will be at the shop for a few days at least.

Any recomendations of the best place to buy good M8 studs? Skandix sells them for 10€ each. And Volvo Portugal just doesn't have anything ever.