D24TIC vacuum pump…any tips for removing the bottom nut?

[AllHailKingVolvo]

Hi all,
My diesel 940 has always been prone to a ticking vacuum pump, but the noise has become considerably worse recently and I’d like to fit a spare one that I have.

My only issue is how to get the bottom nut undone-I can’t get a socket on it, even a shallow one, as the body of the pump is in the way. I can get on it with a ring spanner, but don’t have enough room to exert sufficient force on the nut to undo it, and the multi-point end of my Bosch ratchet spanners has started to round off the points of the nut a little, so I don’t want to pursue that avenue further and find myself in surgical territory.

Any tips would be gratefully received!

[360beast]

Jim Liddy will be the man to ask on this one

[AllHailKingVolvo]

I’ve ordered an open ended swivel-headed ratchet spanner which will hopefully help to get onto the nut and apply some heft. I’ve not been beaten by many mechanical tasks and it’s an irritating prospect to be defeated by an awkward nut!

Hopefully Jim can chime in, would appreciate his D24 knowhow as always!

[jpliddy]

hi yes ive swopped mine a couple of times now .i have undone the bottom nut with a off set ring spanner a good quality one will release that nut you will need to have the spanner as snug as possible on the nut and it should give ,but i did have a issue with the lower nut on a donner car the nut did start to round off so i was lucky to have a short cold chisel which i ground sharp i then went about it with a 50mm telescopic mirror and a cap lamp using these i was able to see where i needed to strike the nut anti clockwise you are viewing the job upside down so you have to understand the exact angle to strike the nut using a lump hammer you are not belting the nut but giving it a thud type of strike once you can make a crease in the flat shoulder you are halfway there the nut only needs to be moved a few degrees then it will give up ,
this may sound a unconvenual way for engineering but it worked for me so is my personal comment only , like i say it may give up with the off set spanner ,another issue is to get the timing notches on the injection pump rear of engine to line up as close as you can this will place the camshaft lobe at its furthermost postion from the vacuum pump plunger so there is no tension on the pump spring when it come off and you fit your new pump its also important to put the plunger back the same way as it came off the car i.e clean it dry and mark top with a permanent felt tip marker i have read that the plunger can be the problem that causes the ANOYING TICKING noise they are available from BRICKWERKS make sure you get the correct length theres 2 sizes .
i made the mistake of getting a FEBI bandit had a very tiny leak which i could never fix in the end i put the second hand one of my donner car on a genuine pierburg pump no leaks now .
if you woud like any more advice please contact me and i will happily talk you through what ive said
regards jim

[AllHailKingVolvo]

Originally Posted by jpliddy

hi yes ive swopped mine a couple of times now .i have undone the bottom nut with a off set ring spanner a good quality one will release that nut you will need to have the spanner as snug as possible on the nut and it should give ,but i did have a issue with the lower nut on a donner car the nut did start to round off so i was lucky to have a short cold chisel which i ground sharp i then went about it with a 50mm telescopic mirror and a cap lamp using these i was able to see where i needed to strike the nut anti clockwise you are viewing the job upside down so you have to understand the exact angle to strike the nut using a lump hammer you are not belting the nut but giving it a thud type of strike once you can make a crease in the flat shoulder you are halfway there the nut only needs to be moved a few degrees then it will give up ,
this may sound a unconvenual way for engineering but it worked for me so is my personal comment only , like i say it may give up with the off set spanner ,another issue is to get the timing notches on the injection pump rear of engine to line up as close as you can this will place the camshaft lobe at its furthermost postion from the vacuum pump plunger so there is no tension on the pump spring when it come off and you fit your new pump its also important to put the plunger back the same way as it came off the car i.e clean it dry and mark top with a permanent felt tip marker i have read that the plunger can be the problem that causes the ANOYING TICKING noise they are available from BRICKWERKS make sure you get the correct length theres 2 sizes .
i made the mistake of getting a FEBI bandit had a very tiny leak which i could never fix in the end i put the second hand one of my donner car on a genuine pierburg pump no leaks now .
if you woud like any more advice please contact me and i will happily talk you through what ive said
regards jim

Amazing, thanks Jim!!

[jpliddy]

hi phil
did you manage to get that vacuum pump nut off
regards jim

[AllHailKingVolvo]

Originally Posted by jpliddy

hi phil
did you manage to get that vacuum pump nut off
regards jim

I haven’t yet, my new pump doesn’t arrive until Tuesday so haven’t attempted it again yet. Ironically since ordering the new pump, the one on the car has gone quiet again!! I’ll change it nonetheless though as it’s been noisy on and off since I’ve owned the car. The pump noise seems to come and go depending on the type of oil I’m using. Shell Helix semi synth 10w40 was quiet, Febi Bilstein branded semi 10w40 was noisiest, currently running Fuchs Titan SuperSyn 5w40 fully synthetic and it’s quiet again. Bizarre!!

[jpliddy]

after talking to a few people with this engine phil im going to use a 5W 40 grade fully synthetic from now on as ive been advised . millers oil tell me the latest spec from volvo is 5W 30 grade but 2 people over here say 5W40 and the guys on the D24.com website sway towards the 5W 40 grade too although they say theres little difference .ive been using 10 W 40 millers semi synthetic for last 20 years and 236000 miles ive driven but now millers tell me thats old technology

[AllHailKingVolvo]

Originally Posted by jpliddy

after talking to a few people with this engine phil im going to use a 5W 40 grade fully synthetic from now on as ive been advised . millers oil tell me the latest spec from volvo is 5W 30 grade but 2 people over here say 5W40 and the guys on the D24.com website sway towards the 5W 40 grade too although they say theres little difference .ive been using 10 W 40 millers semi synthetic for last 20 years and 236000 miles ive driven but now millers tell me thats old technology

I think 5w40 is a good choice, mine is running happily on it and seems a little quieter when warm, especially at cruising speeds. I’ve had no issues with leaking or burning oil, so far it’s been a worthwhile switch. I’m hoping to coax a slightly longer change interval out of fully synth, I was changing the semi synthetic every 3000 miles which was getting expensive! I’m hoping for 5000/6000 from the fully synthetic with perhaps a filter change midway through if required. I’ll keep a close eye and ear on the engine and see how it fares.

[J liddy]

I've been changing oil and filter every 5000 miles since I had the car I use a VW Mann filter from parts 4 u I get air filter once a year just before MOT VW MANN TOO GOOD price's